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I followed the book to the letter (or at least I'm pretty sure I did) With the front at TDC and fully put together, I moved to the rear. Off of memory since I don't have the book in front of me at the moment, I believe it said to turn counterclockwise (when viewed from the right hand side) three hundred and some degrees. I don't recall exact number, but it was almost a full tun. I didn't turn it the short way around.

I remember noting that the direction they wanted me to spin the engine would loosen the bolt if I did it from the right, so I went to the left side of the engine and spun it that almost full turn Clockwise (crank spinning to the rear of the engine)

As far as the starter goes, yeah, its spinning the engine over, but Spockster made a comment earlier hat perhaps its no spinning it fast enough?

compression is lower than I wold expect it to be, but I had attributed that to the gauge itself being of poor quality. My thought on this came from getting a similar low reading on my brothers bike, which is running perfectly fine. (possibly a case of apples and oranges there though...)

I did align the pistons according to the book though, and he gaps are not set in a straight line.
ok if the highlighted part up there is how you did it then you did it wrong the book sucks at the explanation so i will give you the easy way to do it

pull engine

pull outer stator cover and valve covers

rotate crankshaft from the left side until the front timing mark lines up with the point on inner stator cover

check to see if front cam marks are facing away from each other in line with the head surface and 24 pins from dot to dot if the dots are facing each other give the engine another full turn and they should be in the right spot

now rotate engine counter clockwise as viewed from the left side of the engine (rotor rolling over to the front) until you get the rear timing mark on the rotor lined up with the point on the stator cover

then align the rear cam marks facing outwards inline with the surface of the head and 24 pins from dot to dot

then button it up and reinstall the engine call her a bunch of dirty names and tell her if she dont start she is gonna get sold for scrap metal and hit the starter button

thats what i did and now the bitch starts every time :motorcycl
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
In any case, I think I'm done with this bike, and I think I'm going to just strip it down for parts at this point. I think there's a good change I'll be able to get more out of it that way than I would selling it running anyways.

Thanks everyone for your ideas and suggestions, I'm just no longer willing to put any more time and money into this thing.
 
well its your decision but if and when you pull the motor could you report back to us if the timing was indeed off on the back head just for gits and shiggles

you know jadabull swore that he got his timing dead on when he did his engine and he too miss read that tricky text and had to pull his motor again but know that he has his knees in the breeze he is glad he did it

i really hate to see another good bike with a minor problem go out in pieces but in the end its your bike and your decision if i was closer to you i would come do it for you and for free just to keep the bike on the road
 
Discussion starter · #24 · (Edited)
Thanks new rider, didn't see your reply before I posted my last. I guess I'll give it one more go before I do the full part out. Honestly, I would like to see the bike running over not... I hate to admit defeat when I know I'm do damn close.

However, I did reply to your PM about the bags. I'll still sell those. Let me know what you think on price.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
ok if the highlighted part up there is how you did it then you did it wrong the book sucks at the explanation so i will give you the easy way to do it

pull engine

pull outer stator cover and valve covers

rotate crankshaft from the left side until the front timing mark lines up with the point on inner stator cover

check to see if front cam marks are facing away from each other in line with the head surface and 24 pins from dot to dot if the dots are facing each other give the engine another full turn and they should be in the right spot

now rotate engine counter clockwise as viewed from the left side of the engine (rotor rolling over to the front) until you get the rear timing mark on the rotor lined up with the point on the stator cover

then align the rear cam marks facing outwards inline with the surface of the head and 24 pins from dot to dot

then button it up and reinstall the engine call her a bunch of dirty names and tell her if she dont start she is gonna get sold for scrap metal and hit the starter button

thats what i did and now the bitch starts every time :motorcycl

So, followed your directions as describe above. Checked the front cylinder. Dead on with 24 pins between the timing marks/holes.

rotated the engine counterclockwise (rotated towards the front.) and the rear cylinder was dead on with 24 pins between the marks as well.

So, at a bit of a loss...
 
you rotated it the way that didnt make the starter whir right if so and the marks were right then try one more trick turn the motor to the point where the front cylinder is at tdc with the dots on the front cams facing each other (180 out) and then re set the timing on the front cams like it is supposed to be by removing the front cams and re installing them to the correct orientation then rotate the crank ccw to the rear tdc mark and do the same with those cams if that dont get the engine to start up then i have no clue what the problem is
 
Ok, I am lost. Not that unusual.

Overhead camshaft timing shortcuts will not work, unless I understand every letter of the text. My way will always work.

Normal engine rotation is defined as the direction the engine turns when it is running. When timing a motor that I have no experience with, I will never turn the motor backwards. Normal rotation only.

With the vn, I would rotate the engine normally to TDC on the front cylinder. I would then set the cams/chain as per the manual.

IN NORMAL ROTATION, I would turn the engine to the TDC for the rear cylinder. THIS IS NOT where I would time the rear cylinder. The engine HAS to go one complete revolution and back to rear cyl TDC. I would set the cams/chain per the manual.

Does this sound like what you have?

edit-new riders last post probably makes this/my post unnecessary.
 
wm normal rotation is ccw but if you rotate the engine to tdc rear and then go one full rotation the timing will be off on these motor i know this from experience

jadabull called me about his timing and he had it 180 out on the rear cylinder he did it my way and the bike fired right up as you may have noticed he is afk since he got his wheels spinning lol
 
I rebuilt my 800 last year. Spark fuel compression at the right time. Check the easy ones first then check timing. When you set timing run the starter then recheck it. Kenny
 
I rebuilt my 800 last year. Spark fuel compression at the right time. Check the easy ones first then check timing. When you set timing run the starter then recheck it. Kenny
hey did you ever get the floor doards ground down like you like em or are they still throwing sparks in the corners :motorcycl
 
hey did you ever get the floor doards ground down like you like em or are they still throwing sparks in the corners :motorcycl
Soon they will get to where the steel toe boot throws sparks.
 
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