You just have to get auto type plug wires or crimp that style end on the wire. Other than that, they should work just fine. Not stock, but I'll bet the OEMs are more expensive.

 

Yup, Ron Ayers is 75 just for the front coil.

 

I think if you shop around most are in the same ballpark
http://www.motogrid.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/parts.aspx
21121 SKU: 21121-1124 COIL-IGNITION,FR 1 $69.91

Just to be sure, I would try switching the coils around (using the rear connectors with the front coil and try to get a spark from the coil that way (ruling out additional electrical problems) and even using the rear coil with the front connections, just making sure it is the coil.
Coils are supposed to be like light bulbs, working or not. On my kz440 I had a coil that was going out for about three days of daily commuting, then finally gave up the ghost, bigger difficulty there only one coil - bike no go :-(
Good Luck
PS I didn't write it up I just copied and pasted.

 

What is involved in getting that rear coil out? It looks like a PITA.

 

It is bolted on the battery box, back to the manuel:

 

when I was putting wires into the rear coil, it was nearly impossible because of some junction that appeared to be coming from the radiator. My wife had to hold it up out of the way so that I could get the wires into the coil.

 

Aaaahh The bond the wife and the bike have, both can get you cursing and both can help distract you from cursing.

I believe what you are talking about is occasionally called the spider. It is actually part of the emission controls. Two hoses come from it and one to each cylinder and one to the air box up under the gas tank.
I think you knew this was going to be as you said a PITA, right? It will be worth it when things are running great and you know it is because you took the time and did it right!!

 

Is there a way to kill that spider? It's in a nasty spot

 

You can coaster or marble and lose the spider. Basically, you block off the reed valves and plug the right carb vacuum hose, remove the spider and block off the remaining hose to the surge tank. Lots of posts on this out here.

 

You know, if I told anyone else that I was going to coaster or marble my spider I'd probably be hauled away someplace.

 

Actually, you may want to check your inspection laws before you coaster the bike. It's getting harder to mod the intake and exhausts on any engine these days. You can marble and leave everything in place, just remove the marbles when inspection time comes up or you could coaster and replace it all if needed at inspection time.

If you don't have emissions inspections for bikes, coaster away. BTW, you're not coastering the spider, just the reed valves but it kills the spider none the less.

 

Has anyone ever discussed relocating the spider instead of marbling and coastering - just to provide better access to the rear coil?

 

The rear coil is easily accessable if you uninstall the battery box. This isn't hard, it just takes a bit of time. You will have to remove the junction box and the IC ignitor and of course the battery, but once it's out, the coil is right there. You can just raise the battery box up to where the coil is more accessable if you want instead of taking the box completely out.

 

Like Sky Rider said, Much easier to loosen the battery box than to take it out.