Check the fuses first then you may want to check the wiring around the ignition switch and possilby behind the headlight as wiring is ususally run through there.

 

In addition....Try jiggling the key in the ignition and see if the lights come on. If so, take apart your ignition, check that all the soldered wires are makign good connections and clean out the gunk inside with some electrical spray cleaner. It seems to be a pretty common problem (happened to mine!)

 

Whatever you do, do not start changing wires around or disconecting wires. Use your eyes and look for loose or disconected wire. pull lamps and be sure sockets are clean (no rust), and maybe replace them all (cheap). Start with easy fixes and progress to harder fixes . A disconnected bond (negative) can cause lots of problems.

 

Did you get this problem fixed???If so what did you find to be the problem...?

 

Check the bunch of wire connectors under the seat. They are associated with turn signals and tail light. Mine were coming loose but I fixed them for good.

 

I have a problem with the tail light, brake light and speedo light not working

I just had the same thing happen just as I was pulling out of the driveway.
I think it may be because the license plate light burned out.
The only things different than what Lawman described is that the tail light didn't work at all, in any key position and the front running lights don't work.
I checked the tail light bulbs, both OK. Then checked the license plate light and it's not so fine.
A little late to get another now, so I'll find out tomorrow for sure.
Hopefully that's all it is.

 

Well, I'm sure I checked the fuse 3 times !! :BLAM:
But that's what my problem was.
It wasn't until I took the gastank off again to check all the wires and then I looked at the fuse a 4th time and it was noticably blown !!??

Well, put about 100 mi. on tonight and everythings fine !!
I changed out the old ACCT springs with the TOC springs I got from EmptyPocketsad and things are much quieter now !!
Easy DIY fix.
But can someone tell me why some suggest to be sure the pistons are at TDC when changing the springs ?

 

At TDC, there should be no pressure on the cam chain to rotate either direction and the actuall tentioner slipper will not move or get dislodged (not everone does it).

 

this is not quite what you described but just a thought: when i picked up mine the brake light wasnt working. as it turned out it was working all the time because of the stuck switch on brake pedal.