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Discussion Starter #1
Here are the facts:

1. Engine off, battery voltage 12.5-12.6
2. Idling, battery voltage 11.6-11.9 (Increases with rpm)
3. Tested the yellow leads coming from the stator- NOTHING
4. All lights and gauges are working.
5. As the bike runs, battery slowly but surely drains

So my question is, if the stator isn't working at all, giving 0 volts, then how are the headlight, highbeam, signals, etc. still working and why is the battery voltage increasing with rpm? If it's completely dead then all that should not be happening, right?

Or am i just testing it wrong? I tested yellow lead to yellow lead for all 3 and got absolutely nothing with the voltage meter set to 200 volt range dc.

Thanks,
Nick
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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What may be happening is that the stator is actually generating current but not enough to stop the battery from draining. You may want to test the stator leads disconnected from the rectifier, you should be measuring about 35-40 volts AC between any two leads. If voltage is lower then the stator is shorted out somewhere and needs to be replaced.
This test should help you out to determine if the stator is dead.
 

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IBEW 915 Electrician
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Had that problem, just fixed it. Battery would be at 12.5v or worse. I'd let the battery charge, take the bike for a ride and after about 15 minutes would have problems. Long story short; after checking all the wire connections and greasing them with dielectric grease I checked the ohm readings on the RR and they were bad. Replaced the RR with a new one and problem solved.

If the battery is not getting a clean DC voltage the battery doesn't charge and the bike electric system runs off the battery instead of the stator/RR system. That's why the battery runs down. All a battery is for is starting the bike.
 

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Here are the facts:

1. Engine off, battery voltage 12.5-12.6
2. Idling, battery voltage 11.6-11.9 (Increases with rpm)
3. Tested the yellow leads coming from the stator- NOTHING
4. All lights and gauges are working.
5. As the bike runs, battery slowly but surely drains

So my question is, if the stator isn't working at all, giving 0 volts, then how are the headlight, highbeam, signals, etc. still working and why is the battery voltage increasing with rpm? If it's completely dead then all that should not be happening, right?

Or am i just testing it wrong? I tested yellow lead to yellow lead for all 3 and got absolutely nothing with the voltage meter set to 200 volt range dc.

Thanks,
Nick
SWITCH TESTER TO A/C VOLTS then RETEST! lol stators give out A/C (alternating current) then the REGULATOR/RECTIFIER converts it to D/C Volts and keeps the volts @ 12-14 volts..

also i just had this happen to my bike ... the connector for the regulator had worn out some what, enough that the female ends for the wires inside the connector were loose and causing the one (black/with yellow stripe) wire to lose solid connections and started arcing and over heating the wire and inturn the battery drained cause there was no connection/charging.

just some extra info for ya.

Will H.
 

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Stator Cold Check

With the bike off, and using a Resistance / Ohm Meter, measure from each of the 3 Stator Wires to Ground (off the battery (-) or Frame Wire Connection).

You should not read any conduction. Unfortunately I did 3-Ohm.

The Stator put out AC Voltage when Engine was Cool, but declined as it warmed up.

I had one Stator Lead Grounded. The Ground got worse with Heat of the Engine. Replaced Stator, and now Good to Go :eek:

Rich
 
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