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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here's the way we did it 25+ years ago....hope this helps some...

Okay...here ya go guys...took 15 mins per side including flushing/filling. Not too bad for an old coot, eh ? And OldHoss asked, but IMO in his case, I might do a full rebuild. Big thing after an accident, is to see how true the upper tubes are...you need to completely remove for that.
But for a quick seal change, IMO this is the way to go....and I managed to BBQ some deer backstrap whilst doing this, lol....









 

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Discussion Starter #2
Part 2



 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
part 2

Will add text in a few minutes...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Details...

1) First few pics is stripping the forks, and removing the dust seal.
2) Next is draining the oil, and removing spacer (1985 VN700 has a spacer on top of seal)....spacer just falls out when inverted and tapped...
3) then comes the seal removal, and Ive included a detailed pic of the automotive dent puller. Cost me about $4 in the early 80's.
I used a decking screw (not a sheetrock screw) and gently screwed it into the old seal. After yanking a bit, went 180 degrees and same...gently and slowly, seal came out.
4) I cleaned the seat channel for the snapring well, and after lubing the seal with a lil oil, slipped it right in just using fingers. Then I took the spacer (after filing it clean) replaced it on top of the seal, then took a PVC pipe and GENTLY tapped the seal home. PVC cut end HAS to be square !
5) I set in the snapring, making sure it was seated, then added dustboot. Added the oil normally.

I was gonna paint the lower tubes before reinstall, but will wait till winter, or whenever. I wanna get riding !!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
S.o.s. !!!

My first tube went great...when I did the second, once I removed the dustboot and clip, the steel spacer washer was for all purposes "welded" to the tube (so my method wont work)...tried to scrape/lube/scrape/lube to get it free...even tapping with a punch....no avail...musta been them 5 yrs sitting in that barn...
I finally broke down and removed the lower hex to free the upper tube, so I could "top it out"..worked fine, and got washer and seal out....
So, I did my stuff, cleaned all, ready for reassembly....oops....I installed the lower leg bushing, prior to inserting the upper tube.....now I cant get it it back out.... anyone know a way to get that bushing out w/o getting the $112 dollar tool ?
I tried making my own removal tools all day...no joy...I cant afford for a shop or machine shop to do it...any clues ?...
Ive read that some newer Harleys used same forks (AMF days Im guessing) so wonder if the local custom guy could do it. Anyone know the brand of forks ? Mebbe he'd do it for some venison and bear...but its my only hope...else Im dead in the water indefinitely....:(
All because of one step outta place..Im cursed, I know it...mebbe will just sell it...gettin tired...
 

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Which fork is it that is messed up the left or the right. I have an extra fork assembly that I might be willing to part with once I do my fork seals. I am located in albany so im not sure how far of a ride that is for you.
 

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If only it had 6th gear..
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Thanks for posting this. I'll be doing it this way when I replace mine (love the PVC tool). Sorry to hear about that bushing problem tho.
 

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Jack of all trades
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Hey, don't despair I'm sure someone here has run into this problem before.

Have you tried heating the tube with a torch? the only other thing I can recall is I heard of someone using a toggle bolt they modified to fit the tube and a puller to try to force it out.

BTW, I think your puller is older than I am.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Hey, cool...

Thanks for the heads up Fisher...its the left one and Im about 2 hrs from Albany...but aint gonna give up just yet...will let ya know in a week or two if all else fails...:smiley_th
Angell...heating an alloy tube with steel or other metals tight against it isnt a good idea...ask anyone who's run an aluminum head on a cast iron block, lol...they expand/contract at different rates, and this usually causes cracks. And yeah, I got that dent puller either late 70s or early 80s...paid for itself 100x over, and rarely to pull dents !
But I DO like that idea about the toggle thing. There's just enough of a lip on the bushing to mebbe catch if I grind the edge of the toggle to shape...NEAT !!!...Ive always enjoyed making my own custom tools rather than paying crazy prices for "special tool # 678934523rty", lol...very satisfying actually....but thanks for the idea !! Awesome. When I get a few bucks will hit the hardware store...
Interesting also, is that the bushing is mostly copper and has a split down one side..."in theory", if I could get a nice awl near the split on one edge, might be able to bend it inwards enough to get it loose (would mean a new bushing replacement, but I cant see em being that much...
 

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The thermal expansion coefficient for aluminum is greater than copper, so heating it won't cause more stress in this case. The reason it's an issue on engines is because the materials stress against each other and cycling that loading causes fatigue.

Basically the aluminum will expand more than the copper bushing. The only problem is that bushing is somewhat spring loaded inside that tube. So the slight increase in diameter probably won't free up the bushing enough.

I'd go for the toggle idea first. Then if that doesn't do it, toggle + heat.
 

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Jack of all trades
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Just giving my .02 although I don't remember where I heard about that toggle bolt idea or if it was even related to motorcycles. Heck I might have even of made it up. Just let me know if it works out for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Actually...

While digging thru my dungeon, I found an old puller I made for something else (a gun I think)...I think I can mod it to suit this....if it works, will post with pics....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
More...

Sold an antique piano yesterday for $50...so went to hardware store to get 2 toggles...seemed like they'd work, but just bent....even took a steel rod thru the bottom hole and tried to tap on the lip...kept slipping off (will play with angles...(needed a small ball peen to get the bushing in)....
Next is fabricating my own toggle type thing with some better steel that I have....I may be contacting Fisher up by Albany though soon...time's running out for me...
Besides blowing 4th gear in my 73 Nova SS (425 hp) in a race, this is the stupidest thing Ive ever done thats costing....:(
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I beat the bushing !

Well, I whooped it !!!...I tried the toggle bolt, and 3 different sizes just twisted and bent to heck....then I got a steel rod long enough to go thru bottom hole, ground the edge so it would be sharper and grab....nope....
Went back to my original tool design (never tried it), and it worked like a charm...you'd thing the bushing had melted butter on it it came out so easily !
Just painted lower tube now its all together, tomorrow will do the seals and such and reinstall. And thanks to Ruger, will then slap the MC on and have a front brake (inspection purposes only, lol)...almost there !
Thanks for all your suggestions and help, but good old Russian innovation and American ingenuity prevailed !





I'll add details on the tool tomorrow...bedtime for this fossil....lol
 

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Jack of all trades
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nice one. sorry the toggle didn't work for you dude, but glad you got it all set. and you have to admit, your tool does look like a modified toggle bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Correct...

your tool does look like a modified toggle bolt
Absolutely !...and the "almost success" of your toggle sug prompted me to reconsider my design....

By the way, a note of interest to all.... I somehow "lost" the spacer washer which sits just below the fork seal....I replaced it with 2 stacked nylon washers (same ID and OD exactly...yes, used calipers) found at my local hardware store...IMO better than steel, because my one was slightly rusted, and the one I lost was a total mess....
Even if they fail, most could be is a leak.....just a thought for all doing seal jobs....(I got it at a TruValue, btw)....$1.80 each...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Adding oil...

There MUST be an easier way to add fork oil/fluid besides taking off thos damned snaprings. My close vision is failing, and although Ive gotten the top internal compressed, cannot get an awl in to catch the ring...
2 thoughts....

1) fill thru drain plug if tube is off...relieve air by depressing air valve until trickle, no ?

2) Remove the guts from the air valve, fill thru there releasing/introducing air from the drain...
Brainstorming appreciated....
 

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All I did on the fork oil was to remove the schrader valves and I filled the oil to the spec that was listed in the shop manual. It comes out to about half a quart of oil per tube...
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Ummm

Im assuming you mean just removing the guts of the valve...I first tried removing the entire assy, and no go (prolly never been removed since '85)...I worked at a Firestone in the 70's and have a tool...got the guts out...also, ya know those "fix-a-flat aerosol" things, well, I always saved the tubes that screw onto the valve stem (Im weird like that, save odd items)...also, I have a one quart squeeze bottle for gear oil thats almost empty, and the tube fits right onto the tapered end....Manhattan Coffee soda (good stuff btw if you love coffee) is exactly 10.4 oz to the top...and that equates to about 312 Ml...perfect ! Will post results when/if it works...I may need to cut a vent hole in the bottom of the plastic bottle to allow it to release the fluid though...may even cut the bottom off and use like a funnel....

It worked like a charm....had to cut the can for air(hung it like an IV) and even pump the upper tube some, but about 30 seconds after set up....*weg*



 

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Glad I remembered seeing this post before, have to do my seals soon and knew there had to be an easier way to do it. Thanks Wolfie
 
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