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Question: Winter Storage Tips.

26.10.1. Wash & detail your bike, lube & grease everything. Perform a nut & bolt check, tighten everything to specs.
Using a Q-tip and dabbing oil on nuts and bolts can't hurt either. Put a plastic treatment or leather treatment or oil on the bike seat and saddlebags. Consider treating the tires, too.

26.10.2. Be sure to test your antifreeze to make sure it is up to snuff for the type of winter you have in your area. This is a must for outdoor storage and not as critical if you can keep the bike in a garage or heated basement.

26.10.3. Change the oil & filter, check air filter, brake fluid. Run some Stabil or Seafoam in the gas till you can smell it a bit in the exhaust. This will help to reduce "varnish" in the carb and fuel lines. Fill tank to top.
Start engine and turn off gas and let the carb run out to empty. This will lessen chance of varnish in the bowl.

26.10.4. Pull the battery, Either remove the battery and bring it indoors, giving it a "top off" charge it every 30-40 days (do not store battery on a cement floor) OR get a some type of battery minder.. If battery will be two
years old or older anytime during the next riding year, consider replacing it in the spring. At the very least, check the battery with a battery load tester to get a good idea of its condition. A shorted battery will look like it's taking a charge, but will dye as soon as you try to start your scoot.

26.10.5. FOR BIKES WITH CENTER STAND ONLY Let about 10 PSI out of the tires. If your bike does not have a center stand, keep tire pressure up to specs unless you have a safe way to lift and store the bike off of the tires.
Put a sock over you exhaust to keep mice and so forth out. If you are storing you helmet out in the garage, be sure to buy a big pair nylons and put it in them to keep mice and spiders and everything else from making
a home out of it.

26.10.6. Only cover bike with a bed sheet or other fabric that will breath. Using a plastic tarp will trap in moisture and rust out your bike. Even some so called bike covers do not breathe enough for long term storage.
Be sure to check under the sheet every now and then to make sure nothing is going wrong under there, like a family of cats living under there.

26.10.7. In very high humidity & sea coast climates you may want to pull your plugs and shoot some oil in there, and turn your engine over a few times. Be sure to put plug back, tighten to specs. Check with your local wrench
on this.

26.10.8. After storing, there will be some rust on your brake ROTORS, this is normal, just ride but be gentle on that very first use of the front brakes.﷓DO NOT!!! do not, DON'T!! LUBE YOUR BRAKE ROTORS PRIOR TO STORING
THINKING THAT WILL HELP PREVENT RUST. This will FUBAR your brakes.

26.10.9. Put the key in a safe place and leave the damn thing alone! Don't start the engine now and then, as tempting as it is in February to hear that roar all your doing is momentarily grinding the metal parts together that don't have oil hanging on them anymore. Better to let this happen once in the spring instead of three or four times in the winter. Besides all running the engine does is gets the condensation running wild in the pipes, engine,
etc. If youÆve done all the above, your bike is good for the winter. Every once in a while sit on the bike and go, "BBBBbbbbbbbbuuuurrrrrrRRRUuuuummmmmm". The bike will love you for it and perform better in the spring.

26.10.10. After winter and before starting your bike in the spring, change the oil and filter. Standing oil in the crankcase will absorb moisture and cause unnecessary wear when you start your bike for the first time. Let the bike
warm up slowly before taking it out on the road. Watch out for sand left over from winter. It's as bad as ball bearing and drop you and your scoot quicker than you can say spring time. Chuck VROC 2851 Minot North Dakota & Manjo

26.10.11. TECH TIP: When I lived in Iowa I always did just what you listed plus I had a small piece of plywood I would put under the wheels. (pressure left at std). Change the oil is a must because you don't need all that acid
in the used oil left to eat on your engine all winter. Also when starting back up in the Spring I would remove the plugs and spray in a little WD 40 to help coat the piston walls, put the plugs back in and start. Also I would change the oil before I started it up in the Spring to avoid getting the condensation that had accumulated over the winter in the works. I would then run about 400 miles and change oil and filter again and was then ready for spring riding. Always used cheap oil for the winter storage and first run in spring. Worked for me for 9 winters.

Bike never failed to start and had 160,000 on it when I finally sold it for $300 more than I paid for it 14 yrs earlier.

zuck vroc #2109 Nomad g/g Ponca City Ok
 
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