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178 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For windshield scratches: ProHonda polish in the black can. $4.50.
Before I forget to post these, here are a couple of links to articles on how to cut down a windshield. Some interesting info in these articles. Sempai


I think the trick to looking through your windshield in the
rain is to keep it cleaned and polished. That way the wind
pushes the rain off the windshield sort of like a windwiper. A
couple of my helmets have a small visor projected above the
opening. This seeme to help in keeping the sun out of my eyes
and the rain hiding my goggles, though I still end up wiping
across them for better visibility. The current windshield
fairing style I have on my bike is a lot higher than my other
windshield and I have no choice but to look through it, but it
sure does knock out the wind buffeting. I try and avoid rain
if at all possible, but into each life.. a little must fall

Ideally, if you are looking just over the top of the screen,
the slipstream should push the bugs and bees up over the top
of your helmet. Of course, I was looking through my shield a
couple of months ago when I caught the bee in my ear. As for
rain, I swear I got caught in rain every time I rode for the
first 3 months after I bought my VN (back in May). Without a
wiper (!) I would not want to have to look through the shield
in the rain. Too much beading on the shield, distorting view.
My goggles (or face shield if I'm wearing the full face) seem
to create less of that problem. They are alos easier to clear
off by turning my head a little and letting the wind remove
some of the beads of water. Overall, I try to have the top of
the shield right abut at my mustache. But like someone else
posted here, I tend to slouch (esp on longer rides ﷓﷓ or when
it's cold!) and hunker down behind the shield too much. Good
excuse to get that ProTac backrest! JMO

It's been my experience that buffeting comes from below.. With
the semi﷓lowers of the PF3 the buffeting on mine is almost
nil.. Like I've said before, I can light a cigarette with a
bic at 70 MPH.. For the record I tend to look over my shield..
A lot of it has to do with the rake and sitting position.. I
got a lot of buffeting on my 1500 with the Memphis Fats shield
till I installed my lowers.. Same result, drastically cut
buffeting... Raz

my Memphis Shades Hellcat came with the warning NOt to use
Rain﷓x or other treatments and polishes. However...when I
installed the neoprene edging around the top I was in a bit of
a dilemma...the glue that I used (loctite Stick'n Seal) kinda
got picked up by my fingers and left a few spots...not to
mention some oozing out from the edging. "Goo﷓Gone" removed
all the glue and did not seem to harm the screen. I then
endend up using Meguires Deep Crystal System Carnuba Wax #3 to
try and polish out some of the light scratches....after I
washed the sheild with warm soapy water. The screen looks
fine..( see "My 750" folder at
http://photos.yahoo.com/knifemaker1954 ) My guess is some
polishes can react with the plastic...and some...in my
case..don't...But they don't reccomend using them because they
will after repeated use remove the gradiant tint. and It's
possible that some may have some kind of anti﷓scratch coating
on them...which will also end up getting taken off. For
everyday use..I just use a spray bottle filled with 5﷓10% dish
soap and the rest distilled water...to clean off bugs and
grime. I wipe it off with a clean cloth and it works fine. (
Don't over buff with the cloth..you'll end up putting a charge
on the screen that will attract dust ) Knifemaker

I really like RainEx ﷓ keep the rain flowing right off it, and
also keeps bugs from sticking. Works incredibly good in my car
(forget using the wipers, epecially over 75 MPH). I also got
some Memphis Shades "Shinola"... which interestingly, contains
"light petroleum distillates". I never use waxes that contain
that stuff (even though is make a good cleaner wax).

Lemon fresh Pledge

I've used RainX on my VForce with good results, and no ill
effects (it's polycarbonate). Also on face shields. Haven't
tried it yet on the PF3 (acrylic). Anybody? WV Ken

Take at look at the article in the Motorcycle Cruiser
Magazine, titled: Motorcycle Windshield Care & Cleaning
...wiping, and avoid glass﷓cleansing agents such as Windex, or
petroleum﷓based chemicals such as Rain﷓X and Armor All ﷓﷓ the
solvent action of the alcohol in these products can be harmful
to some shields. To remove scratches, break out yet another
soft clean cloth together with a fine grade buffing compound;
hand buffing is recommended for most screens. To help prevent
bugs from sticking to your windshield, use a polish containing
wax (but consult... Hope this helps. Tom Jue
Just put a Slip Streamer Enterprise II on my bike. I like it. A lot of protection. And I can now hear things I never heard before.! Their directions (of course) were to use "their" products, OR a mild detergent with no abrasives, like dishwashing liquid, to clean it and as far as polish, to use a good quality car wax, that is NOT also a cleaner. They also advised to never use any household wax's like Pledge would be.

I work at a museum and we have many exhibit cases with plexiglass covers. Here is what we use to clean and polish the plexiglass. http://www.brillianize.com/ This stuff works great! I used it on my windshield and chrome. The windshield looks like clear glass now. What makes this stuff different from other cleaners is that it's static free. You won't pick up lint and road dust after using it. Comes at a good price too. A little goes a long way. OK, commercial over...we now return you to your regularly scheduled postings

I did a write-up on "Windshield and Helmet Cleaning". Perhaps this will be helpful to someone, I may post it to the website as well. Have a good day. Starman.

First, what to avoid: - do NOT use windex- the ammonia attacks the plastic - do NOT use products that contain petroleum distillates - do NOT use washer fluiid- it contains methanol which can attack the plastic and it's primary purpose is anti-freeze anyway - do NOT be tempted to use gas station paper towels (or any paper towels), they are just wood pulp and can scratch - certainly do NOT use the squeegy at the gas pump - do NOT use Rain-Ex, varying reports of problems with plastics (it can cause crazing / fine cracks after repeated use. More than a few people have ruined their windshields that way.

Resist the temptation to clean your windsheld on a trip (especially if there is no night ridiing)... until you can stop for a while and have the right supplies. On a day trip, I just let it go. Some of the bug splatter can make interesting window-art anyway. Wait until you get home or to your destination !


1. Mix 2 oz. Dawn Dishwashing Liquid and 8 oz. water in a spray bottle - this works great for removing bugs and gunk. I carry a very small spray bottle with me.

2. Mist the windshield throughly with the solution, and place a damp towel over it. Go do something else for 15 mintues or so. Do not let the towel dry out. This will loosen most of the bug carcuses. I also place a another towel over the front fender to catch the run-off. 3. After cleaning with a *cotton towel*, spray the shield with Lemon Pledge Furniture Polish and wipe with clean cloth. Pledge works great on windshields and helmet visors. I does not scratch (non abrasive), and can even help fill in scratches a little. Will also help to future bugs from sticking. I have heard the lemon scent can attracts bees. Never has happened to me. If you want, you can get a no scent bottle. If I do get some deeper scratches, I use Eagle One Plastic Polish and Protectant.

Note: I found cotton towels that say 'made in the USA" are usually softer. The imported towels are not always 100% cotton. I believe all this pretty much pretty much gives the same results as more expensive stuff. Exceptions: The Windex web site says it's ok for acrylic (a very few windshields are acrylic or "PF3"). See below.

What are motorcycle windshield made of: Windshields for motorcycles are made from either polycarbonate (Lexan) or acrylic (Plexiglas). Each type of plastic has advantages and disadvantages. Polycarbonate is an extremely strong plastic. Windshields made of polycarbonate are pretty much bulletproof. The windows on HumVees are made of polycarbonate for just this reason. It's easy to cut acrylic with a saw or drill holes in acrylic without shattering. Polycarbonate is about as transparent as glass.

Acrylic is only about 3% as impact resistent as polycarbonate. Normal acrylic shatters upon impact, and therefore is unsafe material for windshields. Acrylic is very chemically resistent, and is more transparent than glass - glass absorbs about half again as much light as acrylic does. It's not very easy to cut acrylic with a saw or drill holes in acrylic without shattering or weakening the material. Polycarbonate is a DOT approved material for making windshields; normal acrylic is not. Some states require DOT approved windshields, and therefore in these states a normal acrylic windshield is actually illegal, however these laws are rarely enforced. Normal acryllic can be shattered by an impact from a rock moving at speeds as low as 15mph. A special higher cost acrylic called Impact Modified Acrylic "PF3" is available. This form of acrylic is DOT approved for windshields. It's about 8 times stronger than normal acrylic, about ¼ as strong as polycarbonate. To the best of my knowledge, at this time only Clearview and Aeroflow use Impact modified acrylic to make their windshields.

178 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
National Cycle windscreens I had sent an e-mail to them asking if the new Switchblade mounts were available for the 750. ( I was doing a search to see if any company offered the option of using diffrent sized windscreens with the same mount.) Here is their reply: Unfortunately, our SwitchBlade windshields and QuickSet IV mounting system does not have a VN750 application. The only Heavy Duty shields we have available for the VN750 are the Narrow Frame Heavy Duty models...Custom, Low Boy, and Ranger. These shields share the same mounting hardware, and the shields can be changed within a matter of minutes via bolts (not a quick-release system).

I have the Slipstreamer HD-0. It connects at 2 points but provides no hand protection. It keeps the wind off your chest and I do get slight buffeting at hiway speeds (I'm 5'8"). I like it and keep it on all yearend round for protection on the hiway when going to work.

I have a Slipstreamer Enterprise that I use as my winter shield. Since it's a fairing shield with lowers and extends to block the wind off my hands I am able to ride more often in the winter months. The down side with this shield is the mounts go through holes in the shield. In the first winter I used it, the upper plastic mounts would loosen up and I would always have to retighten them all the time. I ended up using thread lock on the mounts. Because of the general bumps in the road I have developed a small crack starting on one of the upper mount holes. I wouldn't recommend a shield that is mounted with holes though the shield for it's mounting. I also don't like having to look through the shield. I prefer to look over it. With a full face helmet, sunglasses and a shield to look

Though, it makes the glare very annoying. I only put up with this to give me more time on the bike in the winter. At the first sign of warm weather I put my V-force shield back on and I'm a happy camper. I would highly recommend the Kaw V-force. It blocks the wind off your chest and over your helmet. The mounts are bonded solidly to the shield and it looks great on the bike. IMHO Warren

I have the Memphis Shades Santa Fe on my "01 VN750. Like you stated, they do have the 4 point mounting system, it does protect the hands from wind and etc. I really like the mounting system as it is easy to make any minor adjustments to shiled position and all. I did not have to relocate the turn signals on my bike. The turn signals are just below the bottom of the fairing. I am 5'8" and the shield height is adequate for me. Cost wise, I'm not sure how they compare. Overall, I am very pleased with my Memphis Shades Santa Fe shield and would recommend it highly. Keep us posted as to what you go with and how you like your choice.

I have the Memphis Shades Santa Fe on my '01 VN750. It is the gradient black. I really like it. As for cost, I really don't think there is a lot of difference in prices, I could be wrong though. As far as practicallity goes, it protects the rider from the wind well, offers protection for the hands too. It really looks good on the bike but then mine is black with the silver on the tank. If I remember right, the '02 is very similar in color which would make for a nice look on yours as well. If you have a Dennis Kirk catalog you can find a pic of it in there. You may be able to compare others as well.

I've got a Memphis Shades Demon which I am very happy with. While everyone has a different opinion as to what they like, I can tell you the main points I like about mine: The stock Kaw sheild was way too small for me. At 6'2", with a long torso, my head was in the full wind blast area. The Demon is about 4" taller and gives much better protection. The Demon also has small flairs which provide surprisingly good hand protection. I like the black shading at the bottom. It blends well with my bike (mine is an '04 so its black with the grey trim). I think yours is black too? The only negative about the Demon was that it only had 2 mount points. At speed, there was some wobble. I fixed it by using the lower supports from the stock sheild. Now with the 4 mounting points, its solid as a rock! My screen was about $120. Again, windscreens are one of those highly personal decisions and one man's dream is anothers nightmare. However, hope this helps.

I am using the Memphis Shades Slim and it works just fine. Source was Motorcycle Accesory Warehouse (MAW). Shield = 47754, Mounting Hardware = 57668, Turn Signal Relocate = 57664. Initially I thought I could remount the turnsignals through the mounting hardware cut- out, but that just put too much stress on the turn signal stalks. Since the turnsignal relocate is required, it makes it more difficult to install a light bar so I have abandond that enhancement for now. I did upgrade the headlight bulb to a Sylvania SilverStar (H4-ST) to get a boost in light output. I am also considering some wind deflectors in the hand area but I have not found a good source as yet. If someone has a good source, please let me know.

178 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Memphis Shades Slim 17". Fits perfect, virtually NO buffeting, and optically clear. Got the suggestion from WooHoo. Could not ask for more from a Windshield. I have rode a Honda VTX1800 and test rode a Honda 1100 Shadow today, both with windshields, both way more wind in my face. Starman

One tip when mounting the Memphis Shades Hellcat..have it sit down so it touches the headlight. I used a small self stick rubber disc on the top of the headlight and pressed the shield down on it as I tightened up the bolts. It makes it alot sturdier in the wind and at higher speeds. Knifemaker
I have the Hell-Cat on mine. It came on the bike when I bought it, and in general, I like the looks of it because it's big enough to do the job, but not so big that it overwhelms the bike. Downsides? It only has a two-point mounting, not the four-point that some other shields have. So it vibrates and wobbles a little... I had to move it up about an inch above the headlight so it doesn't keep banging into that. I'm about 5'10" and can see over it okay, but I also have a Mustang seat which gives me about an extra inch of advantage. If you're on the stock seat, and one inch smaller than I, you'd probably have to sit fairly upright to see cleanly over it. If I were to replace it, would I buy this one again? I dunno. I'd take a look at some of the many other options first. It's fine for me for now, but there's probably better ones out there too. Give 'em a fair look!

I personaly noticed that the bike rode better with the Hellcat....i.e. faster. Guessing the shield was a bit more aerodynamicly efficiant than my exposed torso. I did have it raked back kinda far. Remember my suggestion to hold the sheild down against the headlight when tightening the thing up? I found that at certian rake angles at high speeds..(like 90+) I got some wobble from the sheild. After using a small self-stick rubber furniture bumper on the top of the headlight...I pressed the bottom edge of the sheild to it and tightened up the mounting bolts. This cured the wobble problem. (@110mph still solid) Make sure after you install the sheild to road test it for this...back off the throttle if you start to feel any shake. ( this is wind caused wobble..not the dreaded tank-slapper wobble) If you do get some shaking..try tipping the sheild back just a little..still having it rest hard on the headlight. Just one or two degrees of tilt can make a huge diffrence. Knifemaker
I have the Memphis Shades "Shooter" on mine. It's pretty close to the small "V-Force" Kaw shield. I'm about 5'9" myself, and my field of vision is about 1 1/2"-2" above the shield. If I put my feet up on my highway pegs, and kinda "slump" down in the seat, I can then look through it as well.

I think there's a poll here on that and even a file somewhere.... I bought Jax's Plexistar 2...amd pretty happy with it.He saved me the trouble of cutting it down some..I good idea for those and the plexifairing 3...( I had a PF-3 on a Secca 500..was great..) I also had a Memphis Shades Hellcat on my Vulcan..I liked it alot for it's looks and aerodynamics.. I'm 5'9" and if I sit up straight I can see over the top of the Plexi-2..a little more of a stretch now that I have a Corbin seat...which is a little lower than stock. I do like the graidiant tints that Memphis shades have..I'd love to have that black gradiant on the plexi-2..have researched info on tinting it mysrlf..but decided to leave well enough alone for the time being. there's photo of the plexi-2 and the Hellcat in my bike photo folder at: http://photos.yahoo.com/knifemaker1954 Alot of folks like the "tombstone" shaped sheilds..they are too retro for me.....lol Knifemaker

What you have to decide is do you want looks or great protection..? The smaller shields..( like the MS Hellcat I had) look good on the bike..The 750 is not a large motorcycle...so the larger shields look a little akward on it. If you are under 6 feet tall...the National Cycle shields may need to be cut down..but this is a good thing...sence you are "tuning" it to your size. If you don't plan on taking any long trips..or any extended highway riding...you may want to go with the smaller shields..I'm not that fond of the look of the plexi 2 I have on the bike now...but..the peace and quiet behind it is easy to love. As mentioned..some of the other more classic styles require you to relocate the turn signals...this changes the look of the bike also...and as mentioned...may limit you on installing a lightbar..or other simular accessory. I will say that if you go with the Memphis Shades screens...get the gradiant black..it will look good on your bike...

I have the V-force for about 10,000 miles. I am 6" tall. I like the shield. very solid, no vibration, pretty adjustable for rake. Blocks enough to get wind around my upper body which is what I wanted. Wind hits top of helmet. I usually ride /w/ face shield up until highway speed and mine is raked back pretty far. At 5'6" I think you can have it do pretty much whatever you want depending on rake. Feels very aerodynamic compared to no shield and the traditional upright ones which kinda feel like you are ploughing through the wind.

I have the Kaw VForce and it came with the bike. Small shield, 4 point mount and very sturdy. I have it mounted 2 inches above the top of the headlight and still see 5 inches over the top of it. It's only 14" tall x 12" wide. Smallish, but I like it very much. I'm in summer inferno humid Nawlins', so want all the air blowing on me in the heat I can get without being pushed in the chest to blow me off the bike. Perfect for me. In the cold, dead of winter below 55 degrees, it would be nice to have a bigger shield.

My first shield was a National Cycle Street Shield EX. It looked good and did the job but I had one big problem. The lower mounts are a ball and socket type. It's a rod with a ball on the end and the shield had the socket. The ball kept popping out of the socket when I hit a bump or a strong wind. The shield would flop around until I could stop to fix it. I now use a V-force and am very satified with it even though it looks like it is small it blocks the wind off my chest and over my helmet very well.

Q: I finally got enough time to attempt to mount my PF3. I do have some questions for those who have done this. Do you have the lower legs behind or in front of the forks? Did you have to trim them down? Right now I have them behind and they hit the air filters both left and right. I don't think I will be able to put the lower legs in front of the forks because of my driving lights. Do you have the shield resting on the headlight or sitting higher? Do you have the pivot mount toward the top bend of the bars or lower? Right now I have the tightening knobs facing in toward each other but they cut off a bit of the speedo and tach in that position. Any ideas here? I will also have to cut the top down. I haven't figured out just how much yet.
A: I have my "lowers" right beside and even with the forks. Kinda used the "gap" in the mounting backet of the forks to rest the shield in. My upper mounts are high on the handle bars due to me turning the handle bars back toward me a few degrees, The lower mounts are secure on my forks bracket and are facing toward the back of the lowers. I hope you understand what I am trying to say, kinda hard to xplain, easier to show.

A: My PF3 is not currently installed, so I can't remember all the details you are asking about, but I'll give it a shot. I am pretty sure it goes in front of the forks. I remember struggling with it far longer than should have been necessary. Once I got it, it was relatively easy to do the next time...why does it always work that way? In fact, the more I think about it, it *has* to be in front of the forks. The clamps are on the forks, so it must be positioned such that it is in front of the forks. The driving lights were an annoyance, but it *will* go around them. I think I pried one side forward a couple inches to make it slide into place. Again, after the first time it is amazing how easy it works. No trimming was required. It might hit the air filters a little, but I think once it got in front of the forks, it was so minimal that it just bent the edge of the fairing a small amount, but did not impede steering. The PF3 sits just a little above the headlight. The pivots are high, near the bend of the bar. They point almost straight forward and don't interfere with anything that I recall

A: I have my lower legs in front of the forks. I do not have driving lights, so it's no problem. I put a couple pics up so you can see. Go to the photos in my sig, look in the VN750 folder - the last two pics. The longer legs go straight down and almost touch the "lowers" part of the shield. Jim "Pick" Foster

I also own a PF3 windhshield. I'm 5'5" so I have to look through it also. I don't mind this. I drove it at night, with the sun in my face, etc. None of this is distracting. The only time it is a disadvantage is on cold, damp mornings which fogs up the windshield on the inside and during the rain.

A: I know by now you have read a lot of the other post on this
subject. But on my PF3 the lowers are in front of the forks. They
basically have to be for proper mounting. I have had mine since September and really like it. However I have just cut 5 inches off of the lowers to
accommodate the light bar and lights I plane to put on. I have taken
the PF3 off and stored it for the summer riding season here. It may
have been a little premature. Last week it was in the 80's here. This
week the upper 50's lower 60's. The PF3 does not hit the air filters
except just barely when the wheel is turned to it's maximum travel. The
PF3 is adjusted to have about a 1/2 inch clearance from the headlight.
The mounting knobs do cutoff slightly the tach and speedo. I did not cut
off any from the top. I look through about the top two inches.

In my opinion, the Plex 3 gives great coverage and the on-off is convenient (if you don't mind leaving the mounts on). But it mounts high on the VN and you have to look through it. I'm 6' and it's still high. There have been posts here that recommend cutting it down (or having a pro do it for fairly cheap). I don't know about the others you mentioned. I also have the V-force (smoke). It's tiny compared to the Plex 3 and gives a lot less coverage. But it looks sharp.

I use Pledge on everything but the seat and tires. It really make the
chrome shine as well. I also make sure I clean/polish the back of the
mirrors. That helps clean the bugs off the back easier.
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