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Discussion Starter #1
Like many before me, it seems that my stator may be shot, though it seems the RR is still alright. It's likely that I'm going to be trying to do the work myself, and wanted to see if there is any community consensus on which stator to get when doing this replacement. If you could provide pros/cons and/or and link to the manufacturer, that would be awesome too.

As an aside, I had one other quick question on replacing gaskets: when putting it all back together, are these steps right?
1. Clean both surfaces.
2. Put gasket sealant on both surfaces
3. Affix gasket to one surface
4. Put top surface against gasket, and bolt up.
It's been a long time since I've had to do anything that needed a gasket, and I'm not even sure I did it right then. I'd just like to make sure to get as much right as possible on the first try.

Thanks a lot!
Dan
 

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The Professor
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Discussion Starter #3
I noticed that Rick's part only specifies it as being good on model years up to 2003; my bike is a 2004. Did something change, or do you think the list is just not updated?

Dan
 

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The Professor
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I noticed that Rick's part only specifies it as being good on model years up to 2003; my bike is a 2004. Did something change, or do you think the list is just not updated?

Dan
It will work from 85'-06', alot of times they just don't update when new models come out.

Have you tested your stator output? :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I haven't done the AC Voltage test yet, but I tested the resistance from each yellow lead to the engine block, and the all come out very low instead of infinite like they should be.

Dan
 

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The Professor
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I haven't done the AC Voltage test yet, but I tested the resistance from each yellow lead to the engine block, and the all come out very low instead of infinite like they should be.

Dan
Have you tried setting your MM on continuity instead of ohms and testing them? :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't think my MM has a setting for 'continuity', but I figure a resistance of between 1.0 and 2.0 ohms is pretty continuous. Could that make a difference?

Thanks,
Dan
 

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The Professor
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I have seen cheap mm's show continuity and test the same stator with a Fluke 87 III True RMS MM show to be open. Test the stator output @ 4000 rpm AC volts. :beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, I did the AC Test, and at 4000, they all read in the neighborhood of 60 VAC. Does that sound right? It passes the test where you check the resistances between all 3 wires, but fails the test where you check the resistance to the block. Any thoughts on what all that means?

Dan
 

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Well, I did the AC Test, and at 4000, they all read in the neighborhood of 60 VAC. Does that sound right? It passes the test where you check the resistances between all 3 wires, but fails the test where you check the resistance to the block. Any thoughts on what all that means?

Dan
Your output voltage is about right. I would double check that reading from any yellow to engine case/ground and make sure it is indeed low. I also measured that voltage but the stator was bad.

If you are measuring the stator output open circuit, it can read the correct voltage even if it is bad (shorted to core).

Just be sure, it's a lot of time and money to spend.

Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, I've repeatedly tested it from each yellow wire to the engine block. All of them show very low resistances, usually under 5 ohms. So, would that mean it is bad? Will that somehow keep the output voltage of the stator from charging the battery?

Thanks,
Dan
 

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Simple Solutions
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5 ohms is a lot of resistance... sounds like your stator is bad if it were in the .09 or less i would try a diffrent meter infinite resistance is nothings touching and should show something completly diffrent mine is a 1 on the other side of the display (cheapest of cheaps) do u have a set of aligator clips ? if u dont trust your multi meter disconect the batt and try to run a circuit through the stator pos batt to stato wire and neg bat to test light touch test light to case if it lights then stator is bad dont allow this circuit to be on for more then just the test ie touch flash disconect.... im sure someone will say this is a bad idea but i dont see how this could hurt a good stator esp with less volts then would go through it if it were on ...
 

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The Professor
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Well, I did the AC Test, and at 4000, they all read in the neighborhood of 60 VAC. Does that sound right? It passes the test where you check the resistances between all 3 wires, but fails the test where you check the resistance to the block. Any thoughts on what all that means?

Dan
Your output is where it should be, I just got off the phone with Tim Parrott with TPE who just rebuilt a stator for me. He said there is no way that your stator can be shorted to ground and put out 60 VAC.

He said if you have any questions to give him a call. :beerchug:


http://www.tpe-usa.com/
 

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Your output is where it should be, I just got off the phone with Tim Parrott with TPE who just rebuilt a stator for me. He said there is no way that your stator can be shorted to ground and put out 60 VAC.

He said if you have any questions to give him a call. :beerchug:


http://www.tpe-usa.com/
He's wrong.

If only one phase is shorted to the core and all three are floating, you will read 60 Vac any phase to any phase as this is the potential between each phase, not to the core. If two or more phases are shorted to the core then your voltage will be less.

This is exactly what happened to mine.

Jon
 

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The Professor
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He's wrong.

If only one phase is shorted to the core and all three are floating, you will read 60 Vac any phase to any phase as this is the potential between each phase, not to the core. If two or more phases are shorted to the core then your voltage will be less.

This is exactly what happened to mine.

Jon
I was refering to all three, He said ALL three of his are shorted to ground, if they were he would not be getting 60 VAC.

I haven't done the AC Voltage test yet, but I tested the resistance from each yellow lead to the engine block, and the all come out very low instead of infinite like they should be.
Dan
 

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It sounds like you guys could realy help me on this.
To start I apologize for the length of this but I wanted to give you all the facts that I have. I wanted to check to see if I’m heading down the right path. I think I might need to put a new stator in. If you would take a look at the picture you can see my problem and it’s not the first time it has happened, but it’s worse this time. I have a new junction box and that is a new R/R too. When I did the coil and volt meter mod with the relays I had taken every ground and cleaned them with a Dremal and reinstalled with dielectric grease. I think the Stator is the problem. I did the checks that the service manual said to do. Readings are -- AC all three yellow leads are 28 volts – X 1K ohm = 5 – X 1 ohm = just barely moved the needle. I also did the yellow leads to ground and no needle movement that I could see. If I need to replace it, would it be better to put in a new one from Rick’s and then send this one into the rebuild place and use it for a back up?

Thanks for you'r help

Bob S.
HPIM0477-G-.jpg
 

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Simple Solutions
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It sounds like you guys could realy help me on this.
To start I apologize for the length of this but I wanted to give you all the facts that I have. I wanted to check to see if I’m heading down the right path. I think I might need to put a new stator in. If you would take a look at the picture you can see my problem and it’s not the first time it has happened, but it’s worse this time. I have a new junction box and that is a new R/R too. When I did the coil and volt meter mod with the relays I had taken every ground and cleaned them with a Dremal and reinstalled with dielectric grease. I think the Stator is the problem. I did the checks that the service manual said to do. Readings are -- AC all three yellow leads are 28 volts – X 1K ohm = 5 – X 1 ohm = just barely moved the needle. I also did the yellow leads to ground and no needle movement that I could see. If I need to replace it, would it be better to put in a new one from Rick’s and then send this one into the rebuild place and use it for a back up?

Thanks for you'r help

Bob S.
View attachment 2155
i would disagree on the stator something is shorting out ... the headlight unit (cant recall what its called) r/r... by the looks of thing theres a big short somewhere and the short is pulling when the bike is running im surprised there is no fuse blown... by the looks of things its a bare wire touchin frame... more will respond and we'll get this resolved
 

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The Professor
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Is the 28 volts @ idle or @ 4000 rpm? How long have you had that Chineese R/R? What kind of battery do you have and how old? Can you borrow a digital MM? :beerchug:

I got the inside scoop on Rick's Motorsport Stators. He imports the new cores from Taiwan and has them wound here, his total cost per unit is around $25.00. Even Though they are better than Electrosport which everything is Chineese made, they used to be Electrex but they got such a bad rep they had to change their name, it still has cheap wire. TPE will wind your old core with high end wire and and leads that can withstand 572 degrees F, and give you a two year plus warranty. Your better off having your factory stator rewound.
 

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That was at 4,000 and R/R (ebay $94.00 two year warrenty) just about three weeks. The battery is just the standard type and is 2 1/2 months old.
 

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That was at 4,000 and R/R (ebay $94.00 two year warrenty) just about three weeks. The battery is just the standard type and is 2 1/2 months old.
Have you checked the stator connectors in front of the battery box for melting?
 
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