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Discussion Starter #1
So, I'm at a a loss. I have no Idea where to go now. I have jumped the 11-13 wires. All safeties should be out of play now. Nothing at all. I'm getting continuity from battery to starter, the starter switch works (checked with multimeter), lights all work, neutral light is on, the starter turns when I jump the solenoid.... How can I test at the solenoid that the starter switch is doing anything? When I pull the 2 piece connector out, what do I do the test the 2 wires? Should I be seeing a certain voltage or Ohm load? Is there anyway to test the junction box?
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Don't know how to test JB try to clean start switch
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tried using my old harness with salvaged connectors, but wasn't even getting a neutral light so I went back to the harness that at least had the light coming on and now it won't even come on even though it's in neutral.....about ready to give up on the stupid thing. It can't really be this hard......
 

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Discussion Starter #4
now that i think about it more, when the light was on, i kicked it down into first (it should go to first right?) and the light didn't go off. is there a way to get a false ground on the neutral? maybe there is a deeper problem.... its just getting really frustrating that I have everything hooked up, and it won't even attempt to start. anyone have any clue what the random yellow wire under the tank would go to? wasn't hooked up previously and i see absolutely no where for it to go....
 

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One way to test the solenoid...

Disconnect the 2 small wire connector from the solenoid (the one that the starter switch connects to)
take a pair of jumper wires. Attach one pin of the solenoid to ground. the other pin touch to +12v power, and you *should* get the clicking sound same as you should be getting when pressing the starting button.

as for the neutral light. Yep, should deff be turning off when you click out of neutral. May have something to do with the safety switch bypass??? Not really sure what might be going on with that.

The yellow wire under the tank sounds like the one that should be going to the coolant temp sensor near the coolant fill neck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
One way to test the solenoid...

Disconnect the 2 small wire connector from the solenoid (the one that the starter switch connects to)
take a pair of jumper wires. Attach one pin of the solenoid to ground. the other pin touch to +12v power, and you *should* get the clicking sound same as you should be getting when pressing the starting button.

as for the neutral light. Yep, should deff be turning off when you click out of neutral. May have something to do with the safety switch bypass??? Not really sure what might be going on with that.

The yellow wire under the tank sounds like the one that should be going to the coolant temp sensor near the coolant fill neck.
I already checked the solenoid, nice and strong click when i touched it directly to the battery. As far as the yellow wire, it is nearly dead center under the tank and only about 6 inches long, so it really has nowhere to go at all... I'll see if I can get a picture of it tonight.

NDR, with the bypass of the safety switches done properly, the neutral light still works as designed.
Do you know where the specific connection for the neutral sensor is?
 

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Idont know right now, I can check later. but if the bypass has been done, it doesnt matter what the neutral light is doing (on or off) you should get cranking.

I am thinking a problem with either the run/stop switch or the start switch, or ign switch.

check for voltage at the starter solenoid when you press start button (ign and run/stop on position). should be battery voltage.

also, is battery in good condition? and I know we said this before, grounds, grounds grounds...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Idont know right now, I can check later. but if the bypass has been done, it doesnt matter what the neutral light is doing (on or off) you should get cranking.

I am thinking a problem with either the run/stop switch or the start switch, or ign switch.

check for voltage at the starter solenoid when you press start button (ign and run/stop on position). should be battery voltage.

also, is battery in good condition? and I know we said this before, grounds, grounds grounds...
Every ground I have found (3) is good so far. I have the main one right next to the negative on the battery, on on the right side of the battery box (attached to the forward mounting bolt for the battery box), and the starter ground (i'm assuming its fine as it turns when i jump the solenoid), I don't know of any other grounds, none of the diagrams show anything other than the starter and the main one by the negative on the battery.

Is there a way to test the ing switch with a multimeter? i'm assuming there should be some kind of ohm load I should be getting. I'll pull those off tonight and check them and clean them, give me something to do other than staring in hatred at the wires.
 

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thake apart the ignition switch (puck) and clean it...
there is a sticky in the electrical section that shows the procedure.
Be careful taking it apart so as not to break the tabs or lose any parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Muahahahaha! Stupid ignition switch.... didn't even look corroded, but it was.

Thank you to everyone that helped, should of just cleaned it the first time instead of just visually inspecting it....I feel like a dumb arse
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Glad ya found it.and I also believe the yellow wire is for the temp sensor
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Glad ya found it.and I also believe the yellow wire is for the temp sensor
Correct me if I am wrong, but isnt the temp sensor on the bottom left corner of the radiator?

Just quoting myself here.
Lol, I thought it was going to be a lot worse taking it apart before I looked at the guide, so I kinda put it off and wanted to cross everything else off the list first....should have just started there.
 

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Michbearbettypoobear is correct. The one on the radiator cap spot doesn't do anything but make the needle go up on the gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
there are 2 sensors for temp, one for the gauge and one for turning on/off the fan.
Michbearbettypoobear is correct. The one on the radiator cap spot doesn't do anything but make the needle go up on the gauge.

Ok, so there should be a lead coming from that then right? cause that yellow wire stops under the tank with no where near enough slack to go over to the radiator. I also need to replace the one in the lower left corner (the fan sensor then?) as it broke off and the PO soldered directly to the wire...
 

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Ok, so there should be a lead coming from that then right? cause that yellow wire stops under the tank with no where near enough slack to go over to the radiator. I also need to replace the one in the lower left corner (the fan sensor then?) as it broke off and the PO soldered directly to the wire...
Goes to the area where you bleed the system. Should be a spade coming out of it
 

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under tank, right frame rail, near the neck, you will find where the thermostat lives as well as fill port and bleed port (seperate ports)
 
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