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Discussion Starter #1
When you trade it for one! :pepper:

I traded the vn750 for this '95 vn1500...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157649444442518/

As far as I know, the original owner bought it in 1995, rode it a little more than 6000 miles, and then lost it in a divorce settlement... the wife then gave it to someone else as payment for some work, and it sat in his yard for a while... the guy I got it from wanted to restore it, but didn't have time or a place to work on it...

So from what I can tell, it's just an old bike with low miles that needs some clean/tune up...

I know its going to need new tires, and a couple other minor parts...

What would y'all recommend doing first to get it back on the road?

Thanks,

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, the tires definitely need to be replaced...

The seat was chewed up by one of the previous owner's dog... the guy I got it from gave me a new seat, it's from a slightly newer model 1500, so I'll have to adapt it a bit...

The gas in it smells old... is there a way to flush/clean it out before putting fresh gas in it?
 

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2014 KLR 650!
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Yeah, the tires definitely need to be replaced...

The seat was chewed up by one of the previous owner's dog... the guy I got it from gave me a new seat, it's from a slightly newer model 1500, so I'll have to adapt it a bit...

The gas in it smells old... is there a way to flush/clean it out before putting fresh gas in it?
Syphon the gas out with a clear hose and into a filter screen to see if there is any rust at the bottom of the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's not fuel injected... Do you think I need to clean out the carbs?
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Sweet!yea I'd clean the carbs.I'd look for a meanie seat
 

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Nice old BUBF. Haven't seen one for awhile. You should be able to get the correct seat on eBay, even if it is not in perfect condition it can be reupholstered.

The carbs will definitely need to be cleaned, and if ethanol was left in it, may need more than that. I would remove the tank, pour out anything that was in it, then pour in a gallon of Superclean, and shake it around. Let it set for a few hours, then shake it again. Do this several times, then pour it out and rinse the tank with water, then pour in about half a gallon of kerosene, shake it good, and pout it out. The kerosene will leave a protective oily coating on the inside. If it is not rusted, or just barely rusted you should be ok. If it is badly rusted, things get a bit more complicated.

You will either need to replace or rebuild the petcock, replace the fuel lines, and probably some of the rubber parts in the carbs. If you haven't turned the engine over yet, I would pour some transmission fluid in the spark plug holes first, and let it soak. If the rings are stuck, and you try to turn it over with dry cylinders, it will do some damage.

If the engine starts and runs, and it seems to shift ok, then I would tear it down, lube the splines, the swing arm bearings, the steering head bearings, change the final drive, engine, and fork oil, lube all the cables, and just give it a good going over in general. With only 6,000 miles on it, that bike should give you years of nearly trouble free use. The old style 1500 is not as trouble prone as the 750, and easier to work on. It's also fairly rare now. 1500 and 1600 Classics are everywhere, but the old 1500 has virtually vanished. While it's fairly rare, it's not a collectors item. If it were mine, I would just put it back together, and ride it as is, leaving the original patina and even the dent in the tank as is. Makes it looks like it has actually been ridden rather than being a trailer queen.

I used to be one of those types that was constantly cleaning and polishing my bikes, now I see cosmetic wear and damage as a badge of honor. You can look at a row of bikes, and tell the ones owned by real riders. They will be the scratched and dirty ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Knifemaker, OldDoc, and Jerry!

I'll work on all those suggestions... I'm hoping to get this thing up and running soon! :)
 

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ass hole extaordinaire
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on the front side of the driveshaft where it connects to the bevel gear there is a lock pin

to disconnect the shaft turn it until you see the small hole and stick a small screwdriver in there to push the pin in and make sure that the pin lines up with the hole when you reinstall the shaft
 

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gun slinger
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i would also look at replacing the plastic oil pump gear
 

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I believe you have to split the cases to replace that gear. I don't remember it being a huge problem on the original 1500, it was on the Classic where most of the problems occurred. I don't know what the difference was. My RE has a plastic oil pump gear, and it is recommended to replace it every 10,000 miles. Fortunately it is right under the right side case cover. Nobody makes a steel replacement, so it must be plastic for a reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah, if it's not broke, I'd rather not fix it! :)

So far, I've removed the tank, which, upon initial inspection doesn't appear to have any rust in it... there is what feels like a few cups of varnished old gas sloshing around in the bottom. Something is rattling around inside the tank, feels like one of the (copper?) tubes may have broken off... hopefully it's the reserve one! :)

The petcock is different on this bike, looks like just a straight valve, since the carbs are fed by an electric fuel pump.

I'm replacing the main fuel line since it was torn...

I did what you suggested with the pistons, and charged the battery up to see if it'd turn over... when I tried starting it, there was just a clicking sound which I mistook to be the started motor, but it was actually the fuel pump... so looks like I've got an electrical issue with the starter circuit... That's about as far as I've gotten...
 

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The Plastic Oil Gear was never much of an issue on the BUBF as it was in the Classics , why I don't know but ther has been a lot of discussion on VROC about that. If you do decide to change it to steel ,There is a member on VROC with the username "Judge" who makes a steel gear that you can replace the plastic gear with out splitting the cases.

Here is a link to Gadgets page that has Judges name highlighted I don't know if it is a link or not . This link deals with a slipping clutch but i knew it mentioned Judges name so I am putting it on here for you to find out more. http://www.gadgetjq.com/clutch_spring_replacement.htm#Judgesgear

I have an 05 Classic 1500 and I am a VROC member as well as here.Since you now have that 1500 I would advise you to join there too. They are a wealth of info on all things Vulcan but things move at a slower pace than here. Sometimes it is a day or two before you get an answer but it will be correct and what you need to know.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well since a few of y'all are online, not talking about motorcycle stuff... wanna help me figure something out?

I'm still working to get this Vulcan 88 started... I figured out a bunch of electrical stuff that was broken, and now the thing will crank over, and I have spark - yay!

Problem is the fuel pump isn't working... why there's a fuel pump on a carb'ed bike, I don't know, but there is, and it's not working... as far as I can tell, it has power (tested with meter), but it won't turn on, so no fuel is flowing to the carbs...

Anyone know how to bench test or repair this pump? The OEM replacement is insanely priced... $200-$300!!

Maybe there's an aftermarket cheaper one that'll fit?

Thanks,

Matt
 

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Well since a few of y'all are online, not talking about motorcycle stuff... wanna help me figure something out?

I'm still working to get this Vulcan 88 started... I figured out a bunch of electrical stuff that was broken, and now the thing will crank over, and I have spark - yay!

Problem is the fuel pump isn't working... why there's a fuel pump on a carb'ed bike, I don't know, but there is, and it's not working... as far as I can tell, it has power (tested with meter), but it won't turn on, so no fuel is flowing to the carbs...

Anyone know how to bench test or repair this pump? The OEM replacement is insanely priced... $200-$300!!

Maybe there's an aftermarket cheaper one that'll fit?

Thanks,

Matt
I don't have an answer to the why they have a fuel pump either. Some of the Honda Shadows do as well. you may be able to replace it with an aftermarket automotive electric fuel pump from Summit Racing or Jegs maybe even a local parts store, or you could get a piece of fuel hose and run it directly from the petcock and try thst for test purposes and see if it actually fires up.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Resurrected!!

After fixing a bunch of electrical issues, replacing fuel and vacuum lines, repairing the fuel pump, and cleaning/syncing/repairing the carbs, it finally started!! :pepper:

I took it out for a quick test ride to make sure it'd shift through the gears before I changed the oil, and it runs strong!

I still have to get the brakes working, and calibrate the clutch, and put some new tires on it, and figure out how to mount the seat I got (not a direct fit), but it's almost ready to ride!!

Here's a video of it starting up :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOySgb_BwYY
 

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that's awesome good job. hope it gives you many miles of trouble free rides. love to see bikes brought back to life. good thing is since you have fixed the problems yourself you will know the bike better. good looking bike.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Sweet.sounds good
 
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