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Random dude from Jersey
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been trying to do my homework on this.

'01 Vulcan I did the tests, all three yellow wires are grounding out at 0 ohms.

Not an awesome discovery on the first nice day of the year after a flatbed ride home.

Anyway, I have seen posts saying OEM can be had for $400 or so, which doesn't sound appealing since this one died with under 12K miles on the clock.

Then I have seen a few posts about smaller shops that used to make them available but are apparently not still in business 10 or 12 years later.

Tell me, people, where can a guy get a good stator?
 

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Premium Member
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707 Posts
You’re correct stating that the OEM stator is about $400. I replaced mine last summer. I’ve read mixed reviews on the other brands so I ended up going OEM thinking “this is a one time repair!!”

But I’ll say this, you’ll read on here that the bike doesn’t charge at low RPMs with the original stator. I noted this myself because I have a voltmeter installed on the bike and my original stator did not charge or bump up the voltage when it was idling. Once I had the new one installed I Immediately started seeing the voltage levels increase as soon as I started the bike up. So I don’t know if Kawasaki’s replacements were just made better then what was sold in the bikes or the one I had was just limping along until it completely blew out.
 

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8,254 Posts
I could be wrong, but wouldn't 0 ohms mean no connection to ground?

Last time I looked there some rewound stators available, either williescycle or cycletronics had a page on ebay.
 

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Premium Member
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707 Posts
I could be wrong, but wouldn't 0 ohms mean no connection to ground?

Last time I looked there some rewound stators available, either williescycle or cycletronics had a page on ebay.

I read that as “0 ohms, meaning NO resistance or continuity to ground”

The stator leads unplugged should read infinite resistance if testing from any of the leads to the engine block or negative battery lead etc
 

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Random dude from Jersey
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yeah the stator wires should be infinite ohms to the motor case or frame.

Zero ohms is what you get on two ends of a wire or a spoon. No resistance because it's conducting through there.
 

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Random dude from Jersey
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
You’re correct stating that the OEM stator is about $400. I replaced mine last summer. I’ve read mixed reviews on the other brands so I ended up going OEM thinking “this is a one time repair!!”

But I’ll say this, you’ll read on here that the bike doesn’t charge at low RPMs with the original stator. I noted this myself because I have a voltmeter installed on the bike and my original stator did not charge or bump up the voltage when it was idling. Once I had the new one installed I Immediately started seeing the voltage levels increase as soon as I started the bike up. So I don’t know if Kawasaki’s replacements were just made better then what was sold in the bikes or the one I had was just limping along until it completely blew out.
I wish I were so confident about it being a one time repair. I have seen people say they had to do it twice or more.

Voltmeter seems like a must-have for this bike. I have a few bookmarked and getting one on order soon.
 

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Premium Member
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707 Posts
You’re correct stating that the OEM stator is about $400. I replaced mine last summer. I’ve read mixed reviews on the other brands so I ended up going OEM thinking “this is a one time repair!!”

But I’ll say this, you’ll read on here that the bike doesn’t charge at low RPMs with the original stator. I noted this myself because I have a voltmeter installed on the bike and my original stator did not charge or bump up the voltage when it was idling. Once I had the new one installed I Immediately started seeing the voltage levels increase as soon as I started the bike up. So I don’t know if Kawasaki’s replacements were just made better then what was sold in the bikes or the one I had was just limping along until it completely blew out.
I wish I were so confident about it being a one time repair. I have seen people say they had to do it twice or more.

Voltmeter seems like a must-have for this bike. I have a few bookmarked and getting one on order soon.

Just to clarify, when I say “one time repair” that just means my a$$ ain’t paying to do it again. I’m handy and can do plenty but I’m not a mechanic and I don’t have a garage or even a yard that I could use to dismantle the bike and do this myself. If it goes again it’ll probably be new bike time. I regret not getting the modded plate but I also don’t regret shelling out the extra cash for it.

The voltmeter is handy, but I would recommend wiring it directly to the battery with an on/off switch. I ran mine in parallel with led driving lights off the accessories leads in the headlight and I get slightly lower readings with it compared to my multimeter directly on the battery when I lock at them simultaneously. Point being is there is some voltage drop through the wiring of the bike.
 

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Super Moderator
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11,959 Posts
From what I remember being on this site for oh so many years...

The early models, 1985-1986 had the least reported stator failures. The mid 90’s models the most. During that time OEM replacement stators seemed just as failure prone. Late 90’s and the 200X models seemed better, and the replacement stators from Kawasaki did seem better.

There was a guy that sold rewound stators that seemed quite good, but I think those are not available anymore. (Tim something?)

So I’d be wary of inexpensive ones on eBay (Chinese?) and I do not think there are any American made replacements.
 

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Premium Member
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3,027 Posts
I put a Tim Parrot Enterprises rewound stator in my 2002 several years ago. While the rear cylinder (and who knows what else) is now trashed on that bike, the stator is probably still good. But if the stator on my 1997 fails, I seriously doubt that I am going to pull the engine out of the '02 to remove the stator and then pull the engine out of the '97 to install it in that bike. I am no longer physically able to do a job like that. If the stator fails, I will haul both bikes to the local cycle salvage yard and sell them for pocket change, and be done with Kawasaki for good.
 

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Yeah the stator wires should be infinite ohms to the motor case or frame.

Zero ohms is what you get on two ends of a wire or a spoon. No resistance because it's conducting through there.

I checked the two sellers I mentioned, looks like willies is gone and cycletronics only had a used stator listed.

Did see the stator mod plate on ebay at $100.

No shortage of new stators under $50 though. Rick's, Caltric, Electrosport, etc.
 
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