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What wire exactly in the headlamp do i splice into. is it one of the three wires to the blinker. if so wich one blue or black and yellow or the other one ,and if i do it that way do i need a relay. thank you .
 

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What wire exactly in the headlamp do i splice into. is it one of the three wires to the blinker. if so wich one blue or black and yellow or the other one ,and if i do it that way do i need a relay. thank you .
I used the brown one.
 

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Chucklehead
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I went a little radical over the weekend and installed a spade splitter on the red wire to the rear coil (would work on the front one too) and connected it there. So far no issues and I don't lose it when I switch to high beams.
 

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I don't remember the color but I tapped into the right front marker light. Just make sure you don't tap into the directional wire or it will only work on right turns. If you use the marker which is on when the key is on, you don't need a relay because when the bike is off there is no electrical draw.
 

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Old Truck Junkie
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I used a relay and got my ready right off the bat. I activated the relay from the running lights.
 

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Is your volt meter still working? I tapped in to the left marker light and after about 35-40 miles it blows the main fuse. I am using the Kuryakyn volt meter . This has happened 3 times it is disconnected at this time. Any thoughts.
 

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2000 VN 750 Senior Member
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Is your volt meter still working? I tapped in to the left marker light and after about 35-40 miles it blows the main fuse. I am using the Kuryakyn volt meter . This has happened 3 times it is disconnected at this time. Any thoughts.
I have limited electrical experience on the Vulcan but I did find out that my main fuse blew out several times because when I switched from the stock single round headlight to my present dual rectangular headlights the wires were exposed before I finally used plastic looms (covers) I had a pinched wire at the fork lock mechanism. If I made an extra sharp right turn it would blow the fuse. It took a bit of time to finally get the scenario figured out and then come up with the exact diagnosis visually before the five minute repair. I still carry three five packs of main fuses in the tool box along with one pack each of the others. Check all your connections and make sure your wires are not getting pinched behind the headlight and in front of the fork. You need to figure out the actual scenario of when exactly the fuse blows such as turning, using signals, brake lights, etc. From that I am sure you may figure out a possible cause and only need a quick fix similar to my situation. Good luck.
 

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to solidsuface:
I agree with Vulcan2000....it may just be coincidence, so test the system for a while without the voltmeter hooked up to eliminate EVERYTHING else first. Inspect your wiring and connections for heat damage or melting wires. Also clean and tighten all your ground connection on the battery box and frame...as well as both connections on the battery.

give us some more information please:
1) tell us exactly how you had it hooked up....is it possible a connection was touching a metal ground during vibrations or hitting bumps?
2) Which fuse was blown?
3) Does the voltmeter have an inline fuse?
4) Was the voltmeter getting hot before the fuse blew open?

You can also test the voltmeter on a 12Volt lantern battery any other 12Volt supply by itself with a inline fuse (5Amps it more than enough) and let it run for a few hours on it's own to see if that alone blows the fuse. this might indicate a thermal issue internally with the meter. if that works, wiggle the wiring of the meter around while it is running to see if that makes the meter blow the fuse.

try these tests and let us know what you find out.
 

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If I had to do it over again, I would probably tap the yellow wire in the headlight bucket for signal(+), and the spare black with yellow tracer for ground(-).

~~C8>
 

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2FAS4U
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469 Posts
That is a good idea with the relay. Thanks.
I am more concerned with a consistent reading as opposed to an extremely accurate one.
I want to know if it simply stops charging, or drops suddenly.
If I were to guess, I lose about .5 volts at the headlight accessory wire.
This is with a simple $20 volt gauge though.
 

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That is a good idea with the relay. Thanks.
I am more concerned with a consistent reading as opposed to an extremely accurate one.
I want to know if it simply stops charging, or drops suddenly.
If I were to guess, I lose about .5 volts at the headlight accessory wire.
This is with a simple $20 volt gauge though.
I am using a battery monitor as opposed to an actual voltage meter, so I opted to tap into the front running lights in the headlight bucket. The difference in voltage from the battery to the front lights were not an issue for me.

you can always hook it temporarily to the battery, then do the same with the accessory leads and see what the difference is and go from there.
 

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I purchased and installed the meter last fall. On two trips last fall the main fuse (30amp) blew after 35 -40 miles. I had wedged the positive wire from the volt meter into the bullet connector of the left marker light and grounded to the headlight mounting bolt. After the fuse blew the second time I disconnected the meter, I road 200 miles last fall, no problems.

This spring I put another 300 miles on the bike! Last week I decided to solder the wire into the bullet connector after 35-40 miles it blew. I disconnected the meter,installed a new fuse and finished my 95 mi ride without incident. I did not install an inline fuse, the install sheet said nothing about one. I have no idea if the meter was getting hot, all I could see is those pretty lights.
 

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although those LED display type meters don't draw much you should always include a fuse in your install, they can develop thermal runaway and fail in a spectacular way. If it blew a fuse and still did not erupt into a ball of flames, then whatever fuse gave out was the sole source of protection against heat, smoke, flames....you get the idea. hopefully it didn't overheat your wiring and possibly split or melt the wire casing somewhere hidden that will cause a future short circuit.

It might seem to work fine at first glance, but obviously something is wrong with it. If it were me, I would toss it and replace it.
 

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Well, I started the bike today it ran for about two minutes and quit. ( The handle bars were turned to the right slightly) I pulled the headlight see absolutely nothing that looks suspicious . I pulled the right side fork cover and nothing to see there unless you start cutting plastic wire shield. I am leaving that as a last resort! Put everything back together , with a new fuse turned the ignition switch on, the dash lights lite up, I turned the handle bars to the right and the fuse blew. Apparently what ever it is is becoming more exposed .
 

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is the voltmeter installed?

At least you got a good start on the troubleshooting. Look for chafing on the wire harness or split wiring shorting to each other.

Start by turning the bars and see what wires actually move.
Good luck!
 

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romeobravo172
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842 Posts
Sounds like every time you hook it up it blows. Chunk it and try another one, possibly a different maker!
 
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