What weight Mobile 1 synthetic are you running?
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If you want to use Mobile One, use the MX4T 10W-40 as it is designed for the sport-bike engines which have more in common with our VN750 engine then the the average V-twin engine that is found in Harley's and the VN1500 series motorcycles, which can use Mobile One V-Twin 20W-50 oil.fergy said:
I personally use Amsoil 10W-40 motorcycle oil in my VN750 and have never had a problem with it. It is a little pricey but has never given me reason to doubt it's benifits...
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Mobile 1 10-40w
Have been doing a lot or reading on this subject and 10-40w is
Kawasaki's recommendation because it is more viscous and gets
into smaller openings than the thicker 20-50w.
I will be changing to Mobile 1 10-40w at about 2000 miles, or
after a good break-in.
From what I read Mobile 1 is the best. Carried by WalMart in 10-40w
and 20-50w. Less than 8 bucks a quart.:smiley_th
Have been doing a lot or reading on this subject and 10-40w is
Kawasaki's recommendation because it is more viscous and gets
into smaller openings than the thicker 20-50w.
I will be changing to Mobile 1 10-40w at about 2000 miles, or
after a good break-in.
From what I read Mobile 1 is the best. Carried by WalMart in 10-40w
and 20-50w. Less than 8 bucks a quart.:smiley_th
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Our walmart carries everything but 10w40 in Mobile 1. I did find the Rotella Synthetic 5w40 last night so I'll be putting that in for this oil change. I might have to order the Mobile 1. If I do, I'll just order a large amount to save on shipping. Even the autozone and other auto parts houses have little to choose from in Mobile 1.
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Unless it is the Mobile 1 MX4 motorcycle oil, don't use it. Oil for automobiles have friction modifiers that will wreck havoc with your wet-clutch transmission.norsseman said:
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Ok, now I'm getting confused. Somewhere on here, I thought in the vulcan verses, someone said that on the donut shaped graphic on the oil bottle label it will say "energy conserving" in the bottom half, if it does in fact have friction modifiers in it. I saw several bottles of oil that were of heavier weight than I needed, that didn't have that marking on them. I also saw several 10w40 non synthetic that didn't have that marking on them.
I thought that "energy conserving" lable was the identifier, and meant that was the oil to stay away from?
I thought that "energy conserving" lable was the identifier, and meant that was the oil to stay away from?
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The label on the MOBIL 1 quart that WalMart carries says MX4T 10w-40
4 Cycle Fully Sinthetic MotorCycle Oil.
3 Way Protection Transmission, Wet Clutch, and Engine.
API SG, SH/CF JASO MA . There is a picture of a dual headlighted
Sport MC on the front of the quart.
Sure looks like it is made for Mc's.
4 Cycle Fully Sinthetic MotorCycle Oil.
3 Way Protection Transmission, Wet Clutch, and Engine.
API SG, SH/CF JASO MA . There is a picture of a dual headlighted
Sport MC on the front of the quart.
Sure looks like it is made for Mc's.
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Hey Norsseman, what are you paying for that oil at Walmart? Our Walmart doesn't carry it. I'm just curious about the price per quart.
I just read this article from a retired chemist that worked for oil companies, that really helped me better understand what I'm dealing with. http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm I think that if any of this confuses you, you should read this. It helps clear the air about all the ratings and such. He also explains exactly how to tell if it's good for a bike or not. He said some positively interesting things about the Rotella Synthetic. I might just keep using it and forget about the Mobile One for now. I guess if I saw the Mobile One motorcycle oil for a good price, I'd grab some for later, but at least my Walmart usually has the Rotella Synthetic.
I just read this article from a retired chemist that worked for oil companies, that really helped me better understand what I'm dealing with. http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm I think that if any of this confuses you, you should read this. It helps clear the air about all the ratings and such. He also explains exactly how to tell if it's good for a bike or not. He said some positively interesting things about the Rotella Synthetic. I might just keep using it and forget about the Mobile One for now. I guess if I saw the Mobile One motorcycle oil for a good price, I'd grab some for later, but at least my Walmart usually has the Rotella Synthetic.
Mx4T is for M/C's ,regular 10-40 is not but you still can use it. 40W oils were not required to have friction modfiers in them although some do. If It doesn't have the energy conserving lable then it should be free of friction modifiers. Car oils do work but break down quicker in wet clutch applications.
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Just FYI, Mobil 1 is created. Castrol Syntec starts as regular oil and is modified. Supposedly the same end product. In my bikes (past and present) they "felt" different. In any case, synthetic smooths out the clappity clap of the ACCTs, and you get slightly better gas mileage.
As to friction modifiers - I've never had a problem with regular car oil in my bikes. Personally, I'd go with the 10W40, just to be safe. Our water cooling should be enough not to need a thicker oil.
As to friction modifiers - I've never had a problem with regular car oil in my bikes. Personally, I'd go with the 10W40, just to be safe. Our water cooling should be enough not to need a thicker oil.
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You are lucky... Around my area, Walmart carries almost every type of oil excpet what I would put in my bike...norsseman said:
There have been many great and lenghty flame-wars on the VROC board regarding oil and who uses what and what works and all... I do know that the newer oils that have friction modifers are not good for MC purposes. Some might feel differently and it is their engine. I will only use oils that state that they are for motorcycles. :motorcycl
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Dan,
Castrol GTX 10-40 is not a synthetic, almost all here agree that a synthetic
is much better than dyno oil. BTW Fergy or anyone how much does
WalMart want for Shell Rotella 5w-40?
BTW WalMart's Mobile 1 is found in the Motorcycle section of Auto Parts
near the MC Helmets. The Bell Helmet that I bought their is excellent
I bought the white one with red and white design on it $84 bucks and nearly
as good as a $535 dollar Shoei.
Castrol GTX 10-40 is not a synthetic, almost all here agree that a synthetic
is much better than dyno oil. BTW Fergy or anyone how much does
WalMart want for Shell Rotella 5w-40?
BTW WalMart's Mobile 1 is found in the Motorcycle section of Auto Parts
near the MC Helmets. The Bell Helmet that I bought their is excellent
I bought the white one with red and white design on it $84 bucks and nearly
as good as a $535 dollar Shoei.
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I think I paid around $4.50 a quart for the Rotella Synthetic at Walmart. I'm watching for the gallon jugs to grab a couple to hold on to.
I didn't mean to start a debate. I actually wanted to just get the right weight mobile one oil period. Until I read the articles today, which certainly opened my eyes about oils. It's interesting to know that the Rotella, which is made for deisel truck engines, is perfect for our bikes. Both engineers that I read articles by, thought the Rotella was a great oil for our bikes. They also said the Mobile 1 SUV oil is great as well. They were both saying that there is no reason to spend the extra money they charge for "motorcycle oils".
I didn't mean to start a debate. I actually wanted to just get the right weight mobile one oil period. Until I read the articles today, which certainly opened my eyes about oils. It's interesting to know that the Rotella, which is made for deisel truck engines, is perfect for our bikes. Both engineers that I read articles by, thought the Rotella was a great oil for our bikes. They also said the Mobile 1 SUV oil is great as well. They were both saying that there is no reason to spend the extra money they charge for "motorcycle oils".
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If you read this article, quite long and technical, (http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html) but you can learn alot about oil from it, you'll see that JASO is another certification and the JASO MA certification is the oil that still has the zinc-phosphates and doesn't have the moly added to it.
This is the article I referred to earlier http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm and I suggest you read both. It's interesting how they both come to a lot of the same conclusions. Both are bikers as well. Pretty cool stuff.
This is the article I referred to earlier http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm and I suggest you read both. It's interesting how they both come to a lot of the same conclusions. Both are bikers as well. Pretty cool stuff.
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I've been using Mobil 1 for several years in my bikes. Never had a problem with the wet clutch from this oil. I DID have a problem when changing from one oil to another--neither were synthetic--because of the additives. I had to disassemble the clutch and completely clean out all the little white beads that had formed as a result of non-compatible oil additives.
I did an on-line search on oils a year ago and found an excellent site (can't recall it now). Something about "oil Bible", I think. Excellent explanation and comparison of oils. The author emphasized that synthetic oils don't have additives--don't need them--so they are universal for all systems. They also have the highest wear and heat ratings.
If you can find the site, post its address (I can't recall it now).
I did an on-line search on oils a year ago and found an excellent site (can't recall it now). Something about "oil Bible", I think. Excellent explanation and comparison of oils. The author emphasized that synthetic oils don't have additives--don't need them--so they are universal for all systems. They also have the highest wear and heat ratings.
If you can find the site, post its address (I can't recall it now).
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