Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
In a previous post, I was convinced to go down to bare metal on my bikes tins. I'm jut about done all the prep. A few more spots to sand.( a little bit of bondo on the tank and some on the underside of the fenders)

Other than that, the tank and fenders are completely down to bare metal. Recently sanded them all with 400 grit sandpaper. Looks pretty good bare metal, I must say. I picked up some generic automotive primer at Canadian tire.(hardware/automotive/housewares superstore in Canada). Ive heard of self etching primers. So i asked the guy there and he told me the generic stuff would do just fine and not worry about spending the extra $ on the self etching stuff. I even told him it was bare metal.

So whats the deal? Do I need self etching, or will generic do? Also, I was wondering what to do about the under side of the fenders. I plan on getting some of the house of Kolor coaco pearl to paint. Does it make a difference what primer I go with based on my paint decision?

-Cheers
 

·
2000 VN 750 Senior Member
Joined
·
2,501 Posts
I have always used "Sandable" primer for painting project involving my Vulcan with very good results but if you ask at the place you will buy the House of Kolor paint they may tell you that your finish choice needs something beyond the norm. Some of the newer final paints do require something special for a base to bring out the true effects of the top coat. That includes the "pearl" paints from what I have been told. I believe there are a few forum members with real paint experience that can give you a full and honest answer rather than rely on the people that are trying to sell you some very expensive stuff. Good luck and don't forget to post some pictures with details so the rest of us can learn and see the results.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,354 Posts
There are basically 3 primer shades...red, gray and black...depending on your cover choice governs you primer color...and I cant see using a self etching unless youre building a showbike with numerous layering...
Lemme know what basic color you plan to paint with, and Ill let ya know which shade of primer to use...and like Tom said...get a sandible primer...rattlecan is fine, but a quality one...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Not a show bike, that's for sure. I bought some generic sandable primer. Gray colour. I planed on painting it a pearl base, similar to a root beer, from house of koror. Cocoa pearl to be exact. The grey primer I bought was "duplicolor, sandals primer"
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,354 Posts
Pearl over gray should be fine...although had you used just the root beer, the red primer wouldda been better....but you should be good.......because pearl is basically a white...

Rule of thumb....

Gray primer...blues, greens, whites

Red primer...earthtones...red to brown, and yellow

Black primer...blacks and the "midnight" colors, and metalflake bases

Some may disagree with me, but Im just sharing my personal experiences...

Do 3 coats pearl, then do it up...:smiley_th
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I didn't spray it yet. So I could go and swap the grey for the red primer. Root beer is really close, but cocoa pearl is lighter. In your opinion, would you go with red or grey primer with cocoa?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
What would be the difference?would the finished product look a lot different if I used red or grey with the cocoa base?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,354 Posts
The primer helps the base (enhances)...look at it that way...if yer still gonna use the pearl as a base, then go gray....
If ya wanna just do the cocoa or root beer w/o the pearl, then go red...
And its not actually "red"...is more of an ochre...or a rust oxide...if that makes sense...that'll make the browns look deeper and richer...
You could even give a half coat of pearl over red oxide (light coat from a distance), then do the browns...that will bring out the hilights over the high spots....
I did that with a bronze once, over red oxide...then covered with a sparse copper, and highlighted a chocolate with an airbrush...was awesome in the sun...ya kinda just wanted to lick it, lol....then I hand painted black pins over that...shame I didnt have a good cam then....
 

·
ass hole extaordinaire
Joined
·
3,780 Posts
i say stick with the gray it will be easier to cover grey than red so you wont have to go with a million coats to get the color right

as for the underside how about some spray on truck bed liner if you do it right it will never rust thats for sure
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,354 Posts
as for the underside how about some spray on truck bed liner if you do it right it will never rust thats for sure
Funny you mention that...was thinking about that yesterday...on my Harley, I used a spray undercoating (hardware stores and auto parts)...worked great and was easier to clean...
Dunno about the bedliner...could actually be better since its kinda a plastic ?...but Ive heard that stuff traps moisture between, and ya get hidden rust....could be wrong though....
 

·
Chucklehead
Joined
·
1,050 Posts
I always used a self etch primer on the bare metal only, don't need it on the filler areas, for rust prevention. After that was a building primer to be block sanded down to get the really little imperfections out. I always recomend a catylized building primer because it won't reverse should fuel get through the topcoats. You can get by with the generic primers but I would give plenty of time for the building primer to vent the solvent (2-3 days before final sanding)
As for the underside of the fenders, I used a rubberized undercoating, stayed flexible and absorbed stone hits. You could also use truck bed "rhino" lining, just a little more expensive.

I hope this helps.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,354 Posts
Dragon know better than me btw about paint....and ya, that rubberised undercoating is what I was talking about...IMO better than Rhino...Rhino takes a major prep...the other costs less, a quick cleaning, spray and yer done....I still have it on my 94 K Blazer....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
335 Posts
i personally like to use a self etch, but you can use a epoxie. filler can put on top of epoxie primer up to seven days depending on temp with out sanding. if and when you break through your primer just spray a layer or two on top of you filler and exposed metal when you work is done, then use a filler on top to block sand. when spraying pearl apply it with dry coats. if you put it on too wet it will yellow.




this is a pearl job I did recently and it made me want ot pull my hair out. tri stage is a bitch and very time consuming to get it to all match
 

·
1986 VN750
Joined
·
3,255 Posts
I am going to be painting my spare set of rims, the metal around the sissy bar, and a few other things with Rustolium Automotive Matte Black tomorrow. I'm going to go for 5-7 super thin coats, and hope for the best.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
10,354 Posts
VHT (Krylon) has a special alloy rim paint and coating now...I havent tried, but could be interesting...
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top