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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone. I am having warm start issues again. I have a New MF Battery and the voltage going across is good. What could be causing this? Also Do you use full choke to try to start up again after you have been riding. Mine is very touchy I dont know what to use. Sometimes I dont need to use any choke after a ride, but sometimes i need to use full choke? Is the Stator going? or the R/R?
 

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To start the bike hot, or after a short stop, NO CHOKE, bike in neutral, clutch lever squeezed, key on, hit the starter button and just as the engine starts to turn over blip your throttle about 1/4 turn and let go. Bike should start. Don't continue to crank the starter if the bike won't fire. You'll damage the starter motor. Crank it for no more than 10 seconds and stop. Let it cool if you cranked that long and it didn't start.

Only use choke when the bike has sat for a long time. (hours) On a hot day when the bike is parked in the heat, it won't take but 1/2 choke to start it. Once the engine revs up to above 1500 rpms, roll off some of the choke. I only let mine warm for about 20 seconds or so when it's been parked in the heat.

In the cool of morning after the bike has sat all night, I'll give it full choke to start it, and then start rolling off the choke as it raises in rpms, keeping it around 1500 for about one minute then I turn off the choke and start heading to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Tried that and the bike does not start. only when i let it sit for a while then the bike will start up. I am thinking it is the Stator. am I right?
 

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The stator is not in the starting portion of the electrical system. That's basically 100% battery. The stator provides power to charge the battery and run the bike (at off idle speeds) after it is started.

You have an ignition or fuel problem.

Jon
 

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Search Goddess
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When a new battery and good ground don't solve the hot start problem then a pick-up coil adjustment might be in order.


Possible solution to hard starting your VN7XX when hot.

Problem: Once my bike was good and hot, I would pretty regularly have problems restarting it after shutting it off for refueling, etc.... Once the starter was engaged, the bike would continuously turn over but never fire. After some e-mail discussion with Gary Versteegh from the main VROC board, I adjusted my pick up coils as described below. This seems to have eliminated my hard starting problems. This procedure may or may not solve your hard starting problems. Also, please note that the pick up coils are not designed from factory to be adjustable. This procedure requires modification to the stock components.

If you have any question, feel free to send me an e-mail to [email protected]. I will be happy to answer any questions.

Adjustment of pick up coils.
Remove the 3 phillips head screws on the left side. This will allow you to remove the pick up coil cover. You will need to place something under the bike to catch the oil although oil loss will be minimal. A rag was enough for me. Once the screws are removed, the cover should either come right off or you may need to pull on it. Mine was on pretty good and I had to physically pull on it to get it loose. The three screws and the cover all have separate o-rings. Once the cover is off, you will see the two pick up coils mounted to the stator cover inside two holes. They are mounted at roughly the 9:00 and 11:00 o'clock positions. Behind the stator cover, there is a rotor. You may need to rotate the rotor using a socket wrench on the shaft bolt in the center to align the small "plate" on the rotor with one of the pick up coils so that you can measure the clearance. Once you have measured one, rotate the rotor again so that you can measure the other. Gary recommends .020 clearance. Mine were about .030 or more. To adjust the clearance, remove the two screws which secure the pick up coils to the stator cover. You will most likely need to slightly elongate or slot the holes in the "ears" of the pick up coil mounting brackets. Gary indicates that a chain saw file works well for this but I used a rotary tool with a small grinding wheel on it. You will also see that there are 3 small protrusions coming out of the stator cover that each of the mounting
"ears" of the pick up coils fit into for proper placement from the factory. You will most likely have to knock the one closest to the center off to be able to make the necessary adjustment. A sharp chisel works well for this although you may want to cover the holes in the stator cover with something to prevent the little piece from falling inside the engine. Once the protrusions are knocked off and the holes are elongated, it is time to put the pick up coils back on. Set them back in their holes and start the screws. Place your .020" feeler gauge between the coil and the rotor "plate" and tighten the screws. Once you are satisfied with the clearance, tighten down the screws and do the same with the other coil. Gary recommends that you use both an impact screw driver and lock tite on the screws. I don't have an impact driver but I did use lock tite. Once both are set, put everything back together and test it out. I don't have a digital camera or I would have taken and posted some pics but you can look through the pictures in the Clymer's manual to get an idea of what I am talking about. In my manual (I assume they are all pretty much the same) the pictures on pages 296 to 302 should give you an idea of what I am talking about.

Note: This adjustment DOES NOT require removal or tilting of the engine. Just removal of the side cover held on by the three phillips head screws on the left side.
 

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Search Goddess
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In a manner of speaking.. They are the pick-up coils located behind the round stator cover.
Note.. do these one at a time since placement is VERY vritical. if they get switched it throws your timing off 90/270.

Another source of warm start problems could be the starter relay or a dirty starter. This has shown up on a couple of bikes.
If you do take the starter off to check and clean it be forewarned that there is a significant amount of oil that will come out when the starter is removed.
 

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Haven't installed my Iridium spark plugs yet, but they are suppose to help
a lot with starting issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well I am taking the bike in today to have this issue fixed. I dont have the tools, a garage or the time to do this. I thought my buddy could help me out on this issue. Thanks for all your input. I will let this info get to my macanic so it helps them out more.
 

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Correct me if I'm off base here guys/gals, but couldn't a hot r/r contribute to hot start issues as well. I think I remember reading that the r/r relocation helps with hot start issues.

Just a thought.
 

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I'm not sure if anyone ever proved it to be a fix to the hot start issue, and I missed my opportunity to test it out, by doing both the coil relay mod and the r/r relocate at the same time. But between the two mods, my hot starting problem went away for good.
 

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This is of course not scientific by any means, but I had some hot start issues with mine before I relocated the r/r. Now the r/r was on it's last leg, so it could very well just have been that my battery was not charging causing the hot start problem. Since I've relocated and replaced the r/r I have not had any issues with hot starting and I haven't touched the coil at all.

Like I said, this isn't scientific and may just be purely the failing r/r issue, but it wouldn't hurt to try as the r/r relocation is an easy job. If it works great, if not your r/r will be better off anyway.

Just another thought.
 

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I was having a good bit of starting problems before doing the mods. But now its working perfectly. The coil mod had a tremendous effect on my cold starting. I never really got a chance to test the hot starting before doing the r/r relocation. but for under $40 and a little bit of wrench time for the two mods, Its really worth it to just do both. (and for the people who think it looks intimidating, know that I'm a computer geek and other than changing oil, I've seen very little wrench time, fergy and bulldog's pages do an excellent job in guiding you through the two mods)
 

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Does your starter drag or barely turn over your engine when it is hot? If not, if it turns over normally but your engine doesn't seem to want to fire, then it's probably not your starter. Have you relocated your r/r? Have you volt tested your battery and your coil power wires to make sure you aren't losing some voltage through the connections?
 

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Does your starter drag or barely turn over your engine when it is hot?

Mine does! :confused:
 

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When I had starter problems, my starter did nothing when trying to hot start.
I'd push the button and get click click click.
I'd put the bike in gear, rock it back and forth (to get past the bad spot on th starter, and try again. She'd fire up then or after a couple of tries of doing the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well my macanic said that the starter end cap was was cracked in many places. And he believes that once the engine is hot the withthat crack the starter is not drawing enough power? What do you think?
 

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I think that any problems with the starter, starter relay or any connections manifest itself even more with a hot start.
 

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I think that any problems with the starter, starter relay or any connections manifest itself even more with a hot start.
Just my electronically challenged self again, but why would those problems present more in the heat? I can't even venture a guess, but maybe some electrician [Foxhound!] could provide an explanation?
 
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