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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Lots of abbreviations, slang, and commonly known problems are referenced in the forums without a full description (because everyone should know what they are by now :wink2:). Here's a quick reference for someone trying to get up to speed.

ACCT - Automatic Cam Chain Tensioner - Spring-loaded tensioner for the cam chain. Comes stock on the 750, but the spring eventually wears out causing chain clatter. seealso MCCT.

Blowback - A procedure used to de-gunk the carburater bowls by forcing air into the bowls via their drain plugs, hopefully forcing debris back out the carb intakes (which should be disconnected from the air filters when you do this).

Coastering - Modifying the exhaust by removing the intake reed valves from the exhaust system, usually to prevent deceleration popping noises, or just de-clutter. Seealso Marbling.

Coaster (aka Reed Valve Cover) - a metal plate, usually aluminum or stainless steel, shaped to cover the 2 holes left after removing the reed valves from the side of the engine cylinder housings. Seealso Marbling.

Coffee Grinder Syndrome - When starting a cold bike, a 'gearbox grind' can sometimes be heard. This is caused by cold oil on the clutch, and goes away as the bike warms up. Aftermarket clutch pads also help. There is a mod to drill holes in the hub to let cold oil drain, preventing the problem.

Ear Shave - Modification to remove the "ears" (stock air filters) from the sides of the bike, replacing them with a smaller air filter, usually tucked inside the frame.

Headlight Relay Bypass Mod (aka Blue Wire Mod) - Allows the headlight to come on when you turn the key instead of waiting for the engine to crank.

IC - Ignition Coil - Provides high voltage for spark plugs. Voltage from the coil can sometimes be weak due to too much resistance through various switches and connectors. see the Ignition Coil Relay Mod for details.

GB - see Goat's Belly

Goat's Belly - called a 'power chamber' by Kawasaki, also known as a 'pre-muffler'. Provides exhaust length balancing between front and back cylinders, and helps create proper pressure in the exhaust system. Some report better performance can be achieved by replacing the goat's belly

JB - see Junction Box

Junction Box. A main electrical system component containing some relays, fuses, and diodes. The relays sometimes fail for reasons unknown. See Two Wire Mod.

RLU - Reserve Lighting Unit. When one of the two headlamp filaments is burnt out, this unit causes the other filament to turn on as a backup, ensuring visibility.

Marbling - Forcing a marble into the air hoses of the emissions equipment. Prevents deceleration popping without removing equimpent from the bike. Seealso Coastering.

MCCT - Manual Cam Chain Tensioner - Commonly used to replace the Automatic Cam Chain Tensioners when they wear out. There is a mod to convert the original ACCTs to MCCTs.

MIT - Malfunction Indicator Light - AKA Failure Indicator Light - dashboard light labelled 'HEADLAMP' that comes on brightly when the selected filament in the headlamp is burnt out. It is on very dimly when everything is OK.

Moly - A special lubricant, Molybdenum Disulfide paste, intended for high-force lubrication that would squeeze normal greases from between the mating surfaces. Honda 60 or Locktite 65 are two examples. Beware of low-moly content greases, which are not the same.

Pickup Coils - used by the ignitor box to determine the rpms of the engine. Sometimes the pickups provide a delayed signal or a weak signal to the ignitor box, causing bad engine performance. Moving the coils closer to the rotor can help, or advance the timing of the engine. Here's a writeup with pictures

PO - Previous Owner. Might be source of many mysteries on your used bike.

POOGS - Phantom Out Of Gas Syndrome. Even with a full tank, the bike dies as if it is out of gas. Negative pressure in the gas tank can starve the gravity-fed carbs if a gas cap or gas tank vent is clogged.

rr, RR, or R/R - Rectifier/Regulator

Regulator/Rectifier. A main electrical system component that takes unregulated AC current from the alternator and rectifies it (turns it into DC current) and regulates it (limits its voltage) in order for it to be usable to charge the battery, run the lights, etc.

Rejet - Change the bore size of the carburetor jets, which dictate the fuel mix provided at idle and roadway speeds. Changing exhaust or air intake elements may require a rejet in order for the engine to run properly.

Seafoam - A fuel stabilizer that works miracles. Most notably it helps clean shellac, etc. (left by aging gasoline) from the carburetors, helping prevent a complete disassembly of the carbs in order to get them back to running properly.

Splines - Generically, splines are rectangular ridges machined parallel to the length of a shaft. The vn750 uses splines to connect the fixed-position drive shaft to the shock-mounted/bouncing final drive. These splines are notorious for not being properly lubricated from the factory, leading to premature wear & failure. They should be lubed with "moly" lubrication.

Stator - The stator coil is the non-moving (static) piece of the alternator. It sits inside the left side of the motor, and the rotor spins around it, generating an AC current that supplies the Rectifier/Regulator. The stator can burn out when heat and oil eventually eat the lacquer away from the wires and they short to each other and/or the mounts on the stator which are grounded. The engine must be removed in order to replace it, making it a difficult job. See Tuxedo Mod.

Tuxedo Mod - A major modification to the motor housing that allows subsequent stator replacements to be performed without removing the engine from the frame. Usually only done when replacing the stator after a failure. Named after its originator, vn750.com user TuxedoSeven. A scan of the plate can found in this related thread.

Two Wire Mod - an electrical modification to bypass a prone-to-fail relay in the junction box. Bypassing this relay can help you avoid a no-start situation, but the neutral switch safety feature gets bypassed, allowing the starter motor to crank while in gear with the clutch engaged.
 

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Headbanger/Popes of Hell
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^ what he said.
I've been here a little while and I'm still not up to speed! :BLAM:

oh, you forgot "blow back".
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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You don't want my interpretation of that list;)
 

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god stuff!

one correction:

Stator - The stator coil is the non-moving (static) piece of the alternator. It sits inside the right side of the motor, and the rotor spins around it, generating an AC current that supplies the Rectifier/Regulator. The stator can burn out for reasons not wholly known, and the engine must be removed in order to replace it, making it a difficult job. See Tuxedo Mod.


the stator is actually under the LEFT side cover plate, You can get to the pickup coils by removing this plate, but to remove the stator you would need to split the case....unless you cut and modify via the Tuxedo Mod.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Blowback- me and a bowl of beans and rice

Coastering-what my bartender does before she puts down my glass

Ear shave-once a week

Headlight bypass mod-slipping out the back door if she's ugly

JB-twenty to life

Moly-drugs are bad,see

PO-sometimes how I get at work

Rejet-what happens when the first one doesn't fly

Seafoam- don't like it.smells fishy and is usually full of flotsam and jetsam.and dead fish

Tuxedo mod-never worn one so don't know how to mod one

Two wire mod-all I can handle cause I can't count any higher
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Regulator/Rectifier - sold by Dr. Oz, a dietary fiber supplement & enima in one convenient package. Use to combat the after-effects of Doc's blowback procedure.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Regulator/Rectifier - sold by Dr. Oz, a dietary fiber supplement & enima in one convenient package. Use to combat the after-effects of Doc's blowback procedure.
Priceless. Lol
 

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Super Moderator
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The Goats Belly is in fact called the "power chamber" by Kawasaki, not the "pre-muffler"...
No one can claim removing the goats belly gives the bike more power, unless they are talking top horsepower on a dyno at or near redline.

The goats belly works much like a 4 into 1 exhaust works on an inline four...it provides more torque at lower rpm levels allowing the bike to accelerate faster.

No Vulcan I have ever rode with the goats belly removed felt "faster"...
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Nuh uh silly.the goat's belly is where baby goats come from
 

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Alpha Geek
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Lol, Doc...

I have to agree with KM on removing the power chamber, but replacing it is different. You need a crossover to help the scavenging, especially for low to midrange torque which is where 99% of riding is. I'll never understand people who run short, fat, open drag pipes with no crossover and huge jets. If you're streeting the bike at all, it's retarded, all show, no go.

Anyway, removing it won't help, but "replacing" it with a properly designed H pipe is fine. Theoretically it might help by a percent or two, but not much if any, and not worth it unless you want to free up the weight and room.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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I usually POOG first thing in the morning
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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ODD,I sure would like to meet you before I kick the bucket,cause you are one wacky son of a gun.......
Just make sure you meet me one at a time.if we are all in the same room...
 

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Excellent list, Thorn! :D

one minor correction: Stator: "for reasons not fully known".

... reasons:

The insulation on the wire of the stator eventually breaks down.

That's the simplest fewest worded explanation i can come up with right now. Heat and oil eventually eat it away until the wires are shorting to eachother and/or the mounts on the stator which are grounded. A better stator is possible... but... it's the stuff of madmen working in the bowels of dark candle lit tombs with sparks flying, chains rattling, and half nekkid ladies with half-white cake shaped stacks of frizzy hair. . . . or maybe, just better magnet wire since the Kawi people used what they had. See that price? Makes aftermarket stators look cheap.
 

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They must've gotten all the stators from The Prince of Darkness ... Lucas.
 

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They must've gotten all the stators from The Prince of Darkness ... Lucas.
Based solely on what i know about the Vulcan, my guess is that they wound it themselves in house, or had a job shop do it for them. They were in an engineering weight limitation with the flywheel and that was the flywheel they were going to use... i.e. the electronic guys had to work with "that one". They had a budget restriction on the bike as a whole, and so, when push came to shove on the accounting bottom line, that was the wire that was going to get the contract and/or be used in house. There was no way to test its longevity either, only on paper, so, if the paper calculations said, "five years under typical reasonable use", that's what was put in.

The two ways the stator can be improved are both to do with the wire itself: a) increase its longevity, and b) cool down its operating temperature. Longevity has to do with the surrounding coating, and the temperature has to do with the diameter of the wire used. The only other improvement that could be made is a matter of tweaking the number of coils, and only a tiny bit so that it charges the battery at a lower voltage and fewer RPMs. That sort of tweak would require a lot of testing. An magneto system like the Vulcan has, can only put out "X" amount of power one way or another. Under that umbrella, tweaking can only "trade off" various aspects of the device electronically speaking. The magnet strength is the limiting contributing part.
 
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