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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Got my voltmeter install buttoned up today. Went with the Autometer 3391 gauge & 2203 chrome pod. Installed using a relay with constant power from the spare +12V constant feed in the headlight bucket and grounded through the spare ground lead in the bucket as well. The relay trigger feed and gauge light are fed through a tap into the front marker light. Looks sweet as can be and works like a charm.

Was planning to feed and ground the gauge from the battery tender lead direct to the battery, but when I check static voltage as well as idle voltage at both locations, the bucket feeds showed the exact same measurements as the battery tender lead, so I figured why go through the fuss of the extra work & wiring. Function check static & at idle confirmed that the gauge & my digital voltmeter are in sync, and the gauge can be relied upon for an accurate reading.

All that said to get to the point: Idle voltage is about 13.3V-13.4V at initial startup; idle voltage after driving, like while cruising up to a stop light is right at 14V; and powered the voltage climbs to 15V-15.2V at 2500 rpm and stays there from then on...

Does this sound normal...?

Thanks,
;)
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #3
Function check static & at idle confirmed that the gauge & my digital voltmeter are in sync, and the gauge can be relied upon for an accurate reading.
They seemed a bit high to me as well, thus the question. Forgot to mention that I just installed a fresh AGM battery last week. The readings weren't nearly this high with the old battery...?
 

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Registered
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Do you have any pictures of the install?
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
Got my voltmeter install buttoned up today. Went with the Autometer 3391 gauge & 2203 chrome pod. Installed using a relay with constant power from the spare +12V constant feed in the headlight bucket and grounded through the spare ground lead in the bucket as well. The relay trigger feed and gauge light are fed through a tap into the front marker light. Looks sweet as can be and works like a charm.

Was planning to feed and ground the gauge from the battery tender lead direct to the battery, but when I check static voltage as well as idle voltage at both locations, the bucket feeds showed the exact same measurements as the battery tender lead, so I figured why go through the fuss of the extra work & wiring. Function check static & at idle confirmed that the gauge & my digital voltmeter are in sync, and the gauge can be relied upon for an accurate reading.

All that said to get to the point: Idle voltage is about 13.3V-13.4V at initial startup; idle voltage after driving, like while cruising up to a stop light is right at 14V; and powered the voltage climbs to 15V-15.2V at 2500 rpm and stays there from then on...

Does this sound normal...?

Thanks,
;)
Those voltages do sound high for a stock R/R, but close for a Shindigen/mosfet.
Have you installed one of those?
 

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Premium Member
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120 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Those voltages do sound high for a stock R/R, but close for a Shindigen/mosfet.
Have you installed one of those?
Nope, still the factory R/R, just relocated...

No pics of the actual install (wiring), but if you want an installed pic, I can probably work on one of those...
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #8
Keep in mind the accuracy of your equipment...
Fair comment. I figure that since it hits max voltage at 2500 rpms and holds steady from there on up, it's probably good to go.

A person probably shouldn't complain when the vehicle actually performs as it's supposed to, right...?
 

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If only it had 6th gear..
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1,100 Posts
I would call it on the high side of normal. If it went over 16 I'd be concerned. Would you post a pic of how it looks on there? Did you mount it between the tach and speedo?
 

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gun slinger
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1,110 Posts


thats what mine reads most the time sometimes it flashes the 2nd green light
 

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Captive New Yorker....
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264 Posts
Hi, I need to install one of these voltmeters, as my stator is dead, but I'm not going to attempt to pull the engine until the cold weather sets in, want to get some more riding in.

I'd like to install just like you did, into the headlight. Sadly to say, I don't know what a relay is, and why it is needed. Could you guide me as to what sort of relay I need to purchase. Thanks!!
 

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If only it had 6th gear..
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1,100 Posts
I just fed mine off of the marker light circuit with no relay. The difference in voltage there opposed to the constant 12v. in the bucket is negligible. Plus I was just looking for a reference and a warning if something changes. Found about 12.5 -13 at idle and about a volt more when at about 3k give or take, so I'm ok with that. The needle does dance with the vibration of the engine and drops a lil' when directionals are used (probably cuz it's tapped off the lights), but you can tell where you're at with it pretty well.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
Hi, I need to install one of these voltmeters, as my stator is dead, but I'm not going to attempt to pull the engine until the cold weather sets in, want to get some more riding in.

I'd like to install just like you did, into the headlight. Sadly to say, I don't know what a relay is, and why it is needed. Could you guide me as to what sort of relay I need to purchase. Thanks!!
A relay is an electrical switch. It allows you to use a small current to to turn on a larger current drawing light, horn, starter motor etc. (Also can power a voltmeter.)
If you use a relay, just go to an automotive place that sells lights and ask for a standard automotive relay. 30 or 40 amp is normal, wirh 4 pins. Some have 5, and thats ok too. Sorry I can`t find a good picture of one right now.

Look at this video for more info:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkG22KgciwY&feature=relmfu
 
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