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Discussion Starter #1
Here is a pic of the way I installed the voltmeter available from cyclegadgets.com. The unit is in the headlight housing. I connected the quick splice connectors to the wires for the speedometer bulb. That is also behind the headlight. The whole project took less than an hour, and required drilling the one hole in the dash.

The LED dims after about 15 seconds so that it won't be bothersome at night. If the bike is warmed up, I get a green at idle unless I touch the brake. When I come to a stop, like at a stoplight, it goes from steady green to flashing red.

Oh, and when you first turn the bike on, the unit does a self test and flashes red, then amber, then green, each three times.

 
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I purchased one of these after I saw your post. Very easy install as you said. The plastic housing of the dash is actually three pieces sandwiched togeter, chrome, black and white. I decided to make the hole I drilled larger on the black and white layers. Not sure if this was benifical or not. I placed the control unit on the back of the dash, being careful not to cover the screws. I wired mine up to the running lights, but I may go back and install as you did, since now when I want to remove the dash I have an additional wire to disconnect.

As for the status of my LED... when I am above 3k rpms, steady green, if I pop in the clutch while riding then it quickly changes from solid green to amber, to red and then blinking red. At a light with the break on it is blinking red. After about a 35 min ride this morning I noticed that it was staying amber longer than when I had first left in the morning. Meaning while at a light it was blinking red, as I accelerated slowly, in traffic, it moved to amber and stayed that way until around 4k rpms. Maybe it was due to the fan being on, I am not sure. The bike was fully warmed up at that point. That is with no accessories on.

I am not sure at this point what that tells me about my charging system or my battery. I guess it will take more observation. It is definately charging, but I expected more reserve out of my battery. I have yet to check to see if my battery is sealed or not. I must do this soon.

I rode late into fall last year wearing a heated vest and gloves. I would pop on the trickle charger when I got home and it had no problem starting up in the morning. I am hoping to add the heated pants and socks this year. I may need to get a new battery, I believe this is the original which makes it 6 years old.

I am thinking when I do turn my accessories on and find that it is still charging (LED solid green) then there is enough charging going on to charge the battery. Is this a correct assumtion?

I may do the larger batter upgrade another poster mentioned.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am thinking when I do turn my accessories on and find that it is still charging (LED solid green) then there is enough charging going on to charge the battery. Is this a correct assumtion?
There is enough to charge the battery, IF the battery is taking the charge. Sounds like your battery may be failing. It's hard for me to believe that the battery is 6 years old. Most bike batteries have to be replaced every 2 years. Also, if it is amber for a longer period of time, it sounds like possible charging system failure, but more than likely it is the battery causing the problem. Pull the seat and tell us what you find.
 

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it has also been noted that the wire has too much voltage drop from the small gauge that was used to run up to the headlight housing. I suggest running the voltmeter directly from the battery, as that is what is really important anyway.
 

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Hizzo3 said:
it has also been noted that the wire has too much voltage drop from the small gauge that was used to run up to the headlight housing. I suggest running the voltmeter directly from the battery, as that is what is really important anyway.
Hizzo3, doesn't that volt meter draw a little current and wouldn't that be "on" all the time then?
 

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sorry i guess i should have clarified that. The poor connections can cause the volt meter to read lower voltages. i know i've seen it on here somewhere, maybe in the vulcan versus. As far as the battery drain, you can either install a switch, or you can install a relay that activates off the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I thought about that when I wired it. But then, I'd rather have the voltmeter reading low anyhow. But really, what's the loss? .1-.2 volts? I guess to really know, we'd have to compare the voltage with the battery while under load (lights on).
 

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cegodsey said:
Here is a pic of the way I installed the voltmeter available from cyclegadgets.com. The unit is in the headlight housing. I connected the quick splice connectors to the wires for the speedometer bulb. That is also behind the headlight. The whole project took less than an hour, and required drilling the one hole in the dash.
That is absolutly awesome... Much better then the Kury Akyn which I have on my VN750. The KA Volt meter is, IMHO too bright...

I have the same Signal Dynamic's voltage meter on my Nomad and love it. I mounted it to a switch box I have under my radio and have the volt meter running directly to my battery via a relay operated accessory fuse panel I built. See the toys at http://www.bulldogsbike.com/nomadmods.htm

 

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Hey! Thanks for the complement! From you - that means a lot to me. I almost went for the Kuryakyn, but then I ran across this one, and I weighed the diffs. It's not an idiot light, 'cause it changes color/flashes, and dims as well. And, there's not a bunch of lights to distract me, and I can see it peripherally and know how my system is doing.
 

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i do have to admit though, after i read up more on that volt meter, i rather like it too. I will be getting one most likely with my next bonus check. At first for some reason i thought it was an idiot light, but after reading on it, its much more. and for 25 bucks, you can't go wrong. We need a must have list for our bikes for the new peeps to see. This should be on it!!

good find cegodsey! much better then the gas pills 2 weeks ago :p
 

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Guess I'll have to count myself among the truly fortunate--I'm still using the original lead-acid Yuasa battery that came on my bike when I took delivery of it. Mine is an '02 model that I bought in Dec. '01. It is by no means six years old yet, just a little more than four and a half, but it still cranks the bike first time, every time with no problem. Even if it were to "give up the ghost" tomorrow, I certainly couldn't complain about the service that it has given me.
 

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I had gotten one of those led volt gagues, it was way off. I checked it with my Fluke meter and was reading 3 volts low. Idiling the batt was at 12.5 and the led was blinking red. I called Custom Dynamics and they pulled one off the shelf and conformed the falce reading. They sent me a Kuryakyen one no extre charge. They must have had a bad batch and gotten it fixed. Looks good that was how I wanted to mount mine, glad I didn't drill the hole.
 

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thanks for the heads up...i'll be sure to test mine before install
 

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Discussion Starter #16
At idle mine will be red, which is right in the range of 12.1-12.6, + or - .2, until I put on the brake, at which it drops to blinking red. Which is just fine. I think the biggest issue is where the green is, 'cause if you're not in the green, and your at speed, then somethings wrong. Green is 12.9 - 15.1, plus or minus .2, plus .1 or .2 depending on what the voltage loss is through the wiring & connectors. If there isn't any loss, which I suspect to be true on mine (I haven't actually checked it yet), then that would be green in the range of 12.7 to 15.3, amber in 12.5 to 13, red in 11.9 to 12.8, and flashing red below 12.1. If there is loss, then we have to add that voltage back in. Tomorrow, when I get time, I'll check mine out and tell you what it is reading.

Chad, it sounds like yours wasn't really that far off. At the most .6 volts from stated voltage. But I noticed that the original picture of it showed the sticker to read in volts, not tenths of volts. Was yours one of these? Yours might be the reason for the change. The question is, did they change just the sticker, or did they put in a better chip too?
 

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I purchased my bike used in 2004. The original owner put 7600 miles on it and I have put 11,600 on it. They may have replaced the battery, but I have not. I was assuming that they had not, so I don't really know. You know what happens when you assume. I will have to look for a date on the battery next time I take it out. The battery terminals are clean and there is no sign of corrosion anywhere in that area.

I took the battery out last night and found it pretty low on water. It had 12.71 volts out of the bike. I filled it up to the line with distilled water, reinstalled on the bike, and connected the battery tender to it. This morning it had 13.31 volts. It seemed a little better on the way in to work, amber did not stay on as long, but I will no more when I ride home tonight.

I degoated the bike back in 2004, so I am hoping the R/R is okay.

I guess I am due for a new battery. I may go with the larger battery mentioned in another post.

Are sealed batteries vented like these?

Thanks for all the info.

Michael
 

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They don't have a drain tube on them and don't leak acid all over your bike where ever that drain tube leads. Even worse, if the drain tube falls off...:BLAM:

MF batteries are really a great way to go!
 

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BTW here is the post i was refering to http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1580

also the vulcan versus state there is about a .3 drop from the battery to the headlight aux hook ups. Not huge, but makes a difference while sitting in traffic though.
 

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I tested mine and didnt get green untill voltage was 14.5, testing at the point of connection. I know other people who have ane and it is correct, mine was way off as was the on they pulled off there shelf and tested with a variable power supply. I am not saying they are all bad, just a small batch including the one I got. At idle bike was at 12.5 volts and led was blinking red. I didn't get green untill I was doing 50 mph for over 2 miles. With the Kuryakyn get green as soon as I take off. I trusted my Fluke meter ofer a $20 LED any day. Glad you got one in spec.
 
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