Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

VN750 Stator Replacement Notes

60K views 85 replies 47 participants last post by  kryptonianjorel 
#1 ·
Updated ver (10/01) of my Y!Group post....
 

Attachments

#67 ·
Hey Chuck... You'll see what I'm talking about after you get your stator and notch your cover to accomodate the new power cable. I cut a notch in my cover about 3/4" x 3/8" to run the stator cable out. It would be virtually impossible to run this through the origional location without an engine pull. I used the existing timing wires and cut the power cable short. That gap you will create by notching the cover will shut your bike down unless you seal it.
 
#69 ·
Thanks tuxedoseven, I cut my gap in the cover a little too wide and didn't notch out my plate at the top to accomodate the grommet. It's a good thing I have a spare cover that I can use and I can modify my plate to allow the extra room needed. Great mod this will save a lot of people time and a whole lot of cash! Replacing the stator after this will be quick and easy.
 
#71 · (Edited)
Please visit the link in my signature for a complete discussion of the stator case mod. Thanks to jm1515 for letting me ride his coat tails on this thread.
 
#72 · (Edited)
Another stator replaced here as well-schould i mention that im 70 and have zero shop skills (going through the side of the engine),2in line fuses installed 20 amps and RR moved to its new home behind the passenger footrest...Thanks to one and all for excellent posts/videos/advice and son on .could not have done it without you ...mucho gracias
A few hasty notes ...Make sure the guy you hand your modeling clay plate too for drilling does it asap so the clay does air dry and shrink amazingly fast,throwing all your measurements off.Also make up a spare (I did and was I glad )as on the one i had left at the shop to "pick up in a few days",the clay had shrunk on the shops sunny window sill by 1/4 of an inch all around within a space of 2 days... other than that things went well...
 
#77 ·
Tuxedo Mod with GC-Extreme Plate and M6 50mm 12,9 grade bolts

About 2 weeks ago after my swimming session at YMCA I was getting ready to go home. I went to my bike and tried to start it but battery didn't have enough juice to crank the engine and after a couple more times it eventually drained the battery completely :(. Luckily I was only 5 miles away from home. I called my wife she picked me up then we drove back to the bike with a car battery. I tied the battery to the back of the bike, road home with it :).
In short my stator gave in at 26,000 miles. I called a couple motorcycle repair shops to get some estimates. The average cost of replacing the stator was about $800. I had already watched several videos about Tuxedo mod and read almost all the the threads about it.
Finally, I decided to go with the mod and ordered my ElectroSport stator and the stator plate from http://www.ElectroSport.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=63&search=stator"]http://www.ElectroSport.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=63&search=stator
GC-Extreme's plates are excellent. It is micron level precise. It fit with no hassle. Great, clean product. Glenn (from GC-Extreme) answered all my questions regarding the plates ptiently. I got my shipment within few days. Plates came with two M6 x 1mm x 25mm (12,9 grade) and 2 M6 x 1mm x 15mm (10,9 grade) machine bolts.
I installed everything ran the wires from the original holes and closed the side cover.
However, the idea of splitting the 40mm thread hole into about 10mm on the plate side (5mm part of the thread is unused because the spacer's ribs) and 25mm on the stator side of the cast aluminum spacer kept bothering me. Even though I used a ton of loctite blue on the threads I couldn't trust a cast aluminum spacer with only 10mm treading on plate side.
So I decided to use 50mm 12,9 grade machine bolts.
I removed the cover and the stator and re-assembled by keeping the bolt heads on the stator side and the nuts on the plate side. I shaved the spacer and added 3 washer between the plate and the spacer for each bolt. After tightening the nuts I cut the about 4mm excess from the bolts. Please see the pictures attached.
Sorry I took my pictures after finishing the whole job. I used my old stator and the extra bolts and nuts for the dem0 purposes.
Now, I get about 14.5 volts at idle. This goes down to 13.9 when I rev it up to 3,000 rpm.
So far no complaints on the ElectroSport stator.
GC-Extreme's plate fir perfectly. I completed the whole process under 5 hours.
 

Attachments

#79 ·
OK so going with the "Frame cut mod"...yes I have a wire feed welder/friend to lend a hand.So one question (for now) One1 says cut frame at "correct" upper/lower spots...fine.But then One1 says remove "larger" cover,change Stator...easy peasy!!OK so the "smaller" cover stays on??Thought there were three Phillips screws there that need to come out??(Also hope those screws are ready to come out..no stripping for me!)
 

Attachments

#80 ·
the frame cut is not necessarily a "board approved" method. as far as I know ONLY One1 has ever done it successfully, so nobody else will be of help. I've taken the engine out to do dampers and held the stator in my hands, so I know how to get to it, but would never dream of cutting the frame myself.

if I'm not mistaken, One1 is like a master welder? maybe even a professional? you should talk to him directly if you're considering following in his footsteps. cutting the frame to avoid 4-5 hrs of labor is a huge leap and risk to take, keep that in mind.
 
#81 ·
Yes as that piece of frame holds a lot of structure.take it from a man who had that frame rail rust out on him. The bike will wallow around like it has bad steering head AND wheel bearings. Mine even went into a violent headshake and put me down at about 40 mph.not my idea of a good time


Sent from my Z899VL using Tapatalk
 
#82 ·
Got that new Stator in there ...no issues BUT hooked up wiring like I figured,now have NOTHING at the key/ignition!!Those three yellow wires go straight from the Stator to the three yellow wires on the "plug" on the Rectifier...read in the Forum that this was good to bypass some "box" somewhere(??)'Course brown wire from harness to brown to plug on Rectifier,white to white...black/yellow to black/yellow.Wondering if the three yellow Stator wires NEED to go into the harness??In the pic you can see the three original yellow wires from the harness hanging there...hooked to nothing.Dont understand why they would need to go through key/ignition/harness???Maybe it didn't help that I heard a slight "Bzzz..." when couple wires touched,before I thought to unhook battery!! Pic in "Really....??" thread....:frown2:
 
#83 ·
stop posting this in multiple threads. you have like 3-4 active topics going with questions about your stator install. keep it in one thread, preferably the "Really..?" thread you just made, that keeps it localized so we can keep your questions and timelines straight, makes it easier to help you out
 
#86 ·
Can't find any video of a standard stator removal (probably because, uncut, it would be a few hours)

Here is a video of the stator removal with the Tuxedo mod, which should give you a general idea of it all. Without the tuxedo mod, you have to remove the engine (which is recommended to perform the tuxedo mod in the first place). If you don't have one, pick up a clymers manual before attempting all this.

 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top