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Linkmeister Supreme
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Does anyone have a list of all the gaskets and stuff a person should order to go along with a Stator replacement. I would like to assume since mine is a 1995 that anything I remove will need a new replacement.
Shoot lance328 a pm. I believe he said he has lists of gaskets, O-rings etc. that are needed for any specific service or repairs.
 

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Concert connoisseur
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I think there is one in my sig line along with a walkthrough. good luck!
 

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Looks like my hell shall begin. first it was the brakes then it was the forks followed by the throttle cables and now it looks like the stator is next. The good news is I have found the some of the parts I need and the bad is I dont know where to find the rest. I found the stator on Bikebandit but i dont know where to get the rest.
 

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Premium Member
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If you are willing to wait, it seems to be the concensus of this forum that the rebuilt stators from Tim Perrot Enterprises (tpe.com), is better than the OEM stator, and the cheapest option too. Avoid Rick's stators as they are cheaply made, unreliable, and expensive.

cheapcycleparts.com is usually the best source for new parts, and ebay still has some bargains on used ones.
 

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Member? ... check.
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Stator Failure Root Cause ?

I have also been interested in the stator issue. One of the mods I am planning to do on my bike is to add a 3 phase breaker between the stator and the R/R. My hope is that most of the failures have been due to heat generated through high amperage, and not so much just hot oil. My impression to date, is that stator failure is due to a R/R or battery failure that draws excessive current from the stator, thereby overheating it to a point of melting off the protective insulation on the stator coils.
If I can keep high amperage from happening via a breaker, maybe I will stave off the stator replacement hell many have experienced.
I suppose what I would really like to know is ... Does anyone here know the root cause of the majority of stator failures? :blah:
 

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Replace Alternator / Stator Without Removing Engine

Please visit the link in my signature for a complete discussion of the stator case mod.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Hmmm. Gonna bookmark this so I'll have it when the time comes!
 

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Sparky!!!
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hmm seams like me and a few others discussed doing this very mod several years back.. glad to know it actually works
lol... too bad TOC is going to be upset...lol
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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thank you for posting the link. as a junior member, I cannot post links.
Yes I know that. I think after you have made 5 posts you can post a link.:smiley_th
 

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TuxedoSeven or anyone who has done this mod. Is it absolutly necessary to cut off the original Stator wires (short) and leave in place. I guess there is a reason you have to notch out a new hole for the wires to come through. For some reason this hole scares me the most. One more thing that I'm drawing a blank on.... The 3 - 6mm X 15mm machine screws and the 3 - 6mm X 25mm ones appear to both go into the same 3 holes .... just from the opposite sides? Are the holes "threaded" or "tapped"? Do they meet in the middle of a threaded hole? Are there 6mm nuts somewhere, or am I just not getting it. TIA
 

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TuxedoSeven or anyone who has done this mod. (1) Is it absolutly necessary to cut off the original Stator wires (short) and leave in place. I guess there is a reason you have to notch out a new hole for the wires to come through. For some reason this hole scares me the most. (2) One more thing that I'm drawing a blank on.... The 3 - 6mm X 15mm machine screws and the 3 - 6mm X 25mm ones appear to both go into the same 3 holes .... just from the opposite sides? (3) Are the holes "threaded" or "tapped"? Do they meet in the middle of a threaded hole? Are there 6mm nuts somewhere, or am I just not getting it. TIA
(1) No, it is not necessary to notch the outer case and reroute the wires, and is not done in the TOC mod where they tell you to fish the wires through the existing hole.
(2) The suggested machine screw sizes will work if you use 16 gauge plate, as I did. If you use a heavier gauge plate, you will need longer screws and a thicker gasket between the inner and outer case.
(3) Yes, the holes of the inner case are threaded all the way through and the machine screws should meet in the middle, or, if you prefer, use one long screw and secure with a nut. Please use thread lock.

Please visit the link in my signature for a complete discussion of the stator case mod.
 

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Well,,, with all the overtime at work and kids ballgames, I didn't take the time, while I had the cover off for the stator replacement, to do the modification to the housing. With that said, my 2 month old Ricks stator has failed me. Spent last night replacing bearings and seals in the rear diff. Got on it this morning and took off for about a 20 minute ride and stopped at the ATM to get some cash before the ride to Tennessee I had planned. Cut the engine while sitting there doing my bussiness and when I hit the starter button,,,,,, lets just say I hope the Lord forgave me for what came out of my month next. Pushed it to the nearest small downhill ( 'bout two blocks away) and got it started and home. It is only charging about .5 volts to the battery. I put the MOSFET on her at the staor replacement but did use a cheaper new r/r that I have to check and make sure it wasn't the r/r.

Guess it's time to do the case mod cause I ain't going through the 'normal' stator replacement again. Can't stand the thought of metal dust or shaving going in the engine but I ain't wrestling the engine again.
 

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Another Ricks stator dies an early death! Sorry to hear it, but not surprised.
 

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Yep,,,, pisses me off. My bike in so in mint condition I hate to notch the case for the wiring but,,,,, engine off? /notch the case? engine off?/ notch the case?
 

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Just bought an extra stator cover/mount on ebay for 25 bucks. Gonna take it to work and get the fab shop guerue to make me a plate for it. May have a hole saw on my work van that will cut the center section out. If not I'll see if our electrical supplier has one that size. Try all this on the spare part before I do it to the bike.
 

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Well,,, with all the overtime at work and kids ballgames, I didn't take the time, while I had the cover off for the stator replacement, to do the modification to the housing. With that said, my 2 month old Ricks stator has failed me. Spent last night replacing bearings and seals in the rear diff. Got on it this morning and took off for about a 20 minute ride and stopped at the ATM to get some cash before the ride to Tennessee I had planned. Cut the engine while sitting there doing my bussiness and when I hit the starter button,,,,,, lets just say I hope the Lord forgave me for what came out of my month next. Pushed it to the nearest small downhill ( 'bout two blocks away) and got it started and home. It is only charging about .5 volts to the battery. I put the MOSFET on her at the staor replacement but did use a cheaper new r/r that I have to check and make sure it wasn't the r/r.

Guess it's time to do the case mod cause I ain't going through the 'normal' stator replacement again. Can't stand the thought of metal dust or shaving going in the engine but I ain't wrestling the engine again.
Another Ricks stator dies an early death! Sorry to hear it, but not surprised.
Just bought an extra stator cover/mount on ebay for 25 bucks. Gonna take it to work and get the fab shop guerue to make me a plate for it. May have a hole saw on my work van that will cut the center section out. If not I'll see if our electrical supplier has one that size. Try all this on the spare part before I do it to the bike.

If you're doing the mod while the engine is still on the bike, please stuff oily rags into the ports on the inner case and use a small cutting wheel. This will leave a small amount of metal dust in the rotor drum which is easily removed. Hole saws and the like tend to produce shavings (not good).

Yep,,,, pisses me off. My bike in such in mint condition I hate to notch the case for the wiring but,,,,, engine off? /notch the case? engine off?/ notch the case?
Notching the outer cover is not required and is not done in the TOC stator mod where they tell you to fish the cables through the existing hole. It is, however, the easiest part of the job and makes the next stator replacement very simple .

Please visit the link in my signature for a complete discussion of the stator case mod.
 

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Worked 14 hr.s shift yesterday, then come home and started the mod job. Not the smartest thing I've ever done but it is alot cooler at night for working. Just waiting on the freshly rebuilt stator, which has extra long leads to reach the relocated r/r. Thank you Tim Parrott. USPS should have it here today, hopefully. I think my eyes have more grinding dust in them than the engine does, thanks to the neighborhood mice for having his way with my goggles.
 

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Let me know how your stator mod went, I started tackling mine today as well. All I have left is notching the cover, grinding out the inside and an oil change. I hope by tomorrow I'll be able to take her for a spin and test it.
 

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The mod has been greet so far. I put the old stator in with everything in place except for gasket sealer. Spun the engine to check for stator and drum clearance. Everything is a go EXCEPT for the USPS didn't drop off the PTE rebuilt stator Saturday. I also bought 2 6mm x 25mm bolts and cut the heads off, cut a slit in the ends for a screwdriver, to use for holding the mod and cover in line while you start the cover screws in.

The new Rick's stator I put in 2 months ago had all the wires at the solder points at the stator melted together. Call Tim Parrott when I sent my old Kawasaki stator to him and just asked him what would have caused it. He said more than likely cheap undersized wire overheating.
 
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