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I just checked out the video. its a huge help thanks a ton. Ill be ordering those friday as soon as i get my paycheck.
You are welcome! That's why I made the video: to help others like you and me. The TOC MFG MCCT's are quite pricy. I paid like $186 including shipping. You can find them on eBay for cheaper but also (IMO) cheaper quality. Also the eBay bolt is really long and will hit up against the coolant overflow tank and will need to be addressed.
 

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You are welcome! That's why I made the video: to help others like you and me. The TOC MFG MCCT's are quite pricy. I paid like $186 including shipping. You can find them on eBay for cheaper but also (IMO) cheaper quality. Also the eBay bolt is really long and will hit up against the coolant overflow tank and will need to be addressed.
Yea I saw that in one of the posts I read about the bolt being long on some. I’d rather spend the extra money for the good ones lol. Still much cheaper then an engine.
 

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How did you do that? Is there a way to adjust timing on these bikes after all?

I'm still chasing my decel pops. The little 'blat' I get when upshifting sounds pretty cool, but the decel popping on my bike has always been outrageous. I've done everything mentioned here for addressing that but am intrigued to hear of a timing option. My coast enrichers are fine, my EGR system is gone and plugged up tight and I've addressed all the exhaust leaks I've found. The only way I've been able to get rid of decel pops is having the idle set higher than 1100. But then I'm basically not decelerating either which, needless to say, can be scary when trying to slow down. 😁
I put an aftermarket ignition controller on my bike. I then ran some extra vacuum hoses to T the two vacuum ports together into a MAP sensor. The controller senses engine vacuum and adjusts based on load. Long story short, if you put the hoses and MAP sensor on like I did in the first link, the module is otherwise plug-in-play. I even left my factory controller installed in case something went wrong, but 1.5 years in I've had no issues with the new module. The rest of that "diary" is me waxing on about my discoveries along the way.

Here's the process for the extra vacuum hoses.

And here's my "diary" on the process of tuning the ignition.

Overall, the change gave me a slight bump in MPG (2-4 more), which was the motivation for the project. Not fuel savings, but increased range on a tank. But the additional benefits are well worth it in my opinion. I bumped the idle timing from 5 to 7 degrees. This allowed me to close the idle a bit more to maintain 1100 RPM, giving more deceleration than before. With the settings I'm running, I pull the ignition timing back to 10 degrees after top dead center (which causes popping) BUT it also further reduces the residual power during deceleration causing an even faster RPM drop. The engine overall feels a lot more responsive. I set up a 2nd ignition table for when I'm running on choke. This controller can change timing tables with an external switch. It runs significantly retarded ignition timing in this mode, causing it to idle at 1500 on choke, as well as rev down almost as quickly as the original bike off choke. It makes it MUCH more predictable to ride on choke.
 
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I put an aftermarket ignition controller on my bike. I then ran some extra vacuum hoses to T the two vacuum ports together into a MAP sensor. The controller senses engine vacuum and adjusts based on load. Long story short, if you put the hoses and MAP sensor on like I did in the first link, the module is otherwise plug-in-play. I even left my factory controller installed in case something went wrong, but 1.5 years in I've had no issues with the new module. The rest of that "diary" is me waxing on about my discoveries along the way.

Here's the process for the extra vacuum hoses.

And here's my "diary" on the process of tuning the ignition.

Overall, the change gave me a slight bump in MPG (2-4 more), which was the motivation for the project. Not fuel savings, but increased range on a tank. But the additional benefits are well worth it in my opinion. I bumped the idle timing from 5 to 7 degrees. This allowed me to close the idle a bit more to maintain 1100 RPM, giving more deceleration than before. With the settings I'm running, I pull the ignition timing back to 10 degrees after top dead center (which causes popping) BUT it also further reduces the residual power during deceleration causing an even faster RPM drop. The engine overall feels a lot more responsive. I set up a 2nd ignition table for when I'm running on choke. This controller can change timing tables with an external switch. It runs significantly retarded ignition timing in this mode, causing it to idle at 1500 on choke, as well as rev down almost as quickly as the original bike off choke. It makes it MUCH more predictable to ride on choke.
If you like making loud noises....

If I unplug the vacuum on the right side and leave it open, it goes off like a cannon on longer downhill decels. Hasn't blown a muffler so far. 👹

I've only done it a couple of times, once by accident and once to see if that's what caused it.
 

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Ya, it's not for everyone. I can always go MUCH more than 10 degrees after top dead center to get the decel performance without the pops. It doesn't pop after 25 or so degrees after top dead center. I think it lets me go to 99 after? It's almost like a spark cut on decel then.

I forgot another benefit, I can connect a laptop to the serial port and sync the carbs by reading the vacuum. I just pinch one carb hose or the other to get a reading from each carb.

Also, it adds timing if the RPM drops below 1100 and subtracts if it rised above 1100. It stabilizes the idle RPM so I never have to touch the idle adjustments knob as it warms up.
 
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