Kawasaki VN750 Forum banner

21 - 40 of 115 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Awesome Roach!! Thanks a bunch for part 3!! I would never have thought to use oven cleaner. You make all this look so simple. Dunno if it's just that your engine is in better condition than mine or what. Mine has just been badly abused, so everything on the teardown has been a fight and I'm being super patient with it, so as to salvage what I can.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,803 Posts
Thanks for the link! I'll probably try the Kroil and also another product Freeze-off, if the nut splitter won't get in there..I got the smallest splitter I could find, but it's gonna be tight on clearance. I really hate to cut them off with a Dremel and all 4 are in same condition. Doesn't seem to be rust so much, as probably seized from heat or severe over-tightening. I plan to replace both the studs and the nuts when I do the rebuild.
Try a 50/50 mix of Automatic transmission fluid and acetone. It has been proven in laboratory tests to work much better than Kroil, PB, and all the others. I can tell you that it works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Awesome Roach!! Thanks a bunch for part 3!! I would never have thought to use oven cleaner. You make all this look so simple. Dunno if it's just that your engine is in better condition than mine or what. Mine has just been badly abused, so everything on the teardown has been a fight and I'm being super patient with it, so as to salvage what I can.
Mine has pretty low mileage so it wouldn't suprise me if other engines were a lot worse off. I ended up using the razor blade on the valves quite a bit also. I think they are hard enought steel that it won't hurt them.

The video editing probably makes it look more simple than it is. I don't film things like scrubbing parts as it doesn't add much value.
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
I'm waiting on a 18mm x 1.5mm bolt to remove the flywheel. So it'll be a couple days before I get to the crank case.
Excellent videos Roach.

My local Case/International farm dealership says they stock a 18mm X 1.5mm by 50 or 60mm long bolt that you can use to remove the rotor/flywheel. If you are located near farm country you can pick one up locally too for about $10-12, the same as I have seen them on ebay. Just check the kaw manual or ebay to see what length you need. I`m sure 60mm is long enough.

I like your method of bagging the valves, springs and related hardware for each valve. I have also used the cardboard template to keep bolts in order.

You don`t show how you are keeping the other parts separated and in order.
I will make a few suggestions for newbies with little or no wrenching experience.

Collect any old bread baking pans, muffin tins, cookies sheets or other large and shallow metal cookie/candy containers with or w/o lids, to keep parts in.

2nd choices are assorted sizes of cardboard boxes, cut off 1 gal plastic bottles, etc. will all be useful for storage and organization.

Egg containers are good for keeping small parts in order as the engine is dismantled. If you can find them, a few large plastic flats that hold 2 1/2 dozen eggs stand up better to use in the garage than the cardboard or styrofoam cartons.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
This gets my vote for Thread of the Year!! Excellent!

What did you use to produce the video/ Web cam, video camera? What video editor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Thx for the tip on the ATF/acetone. I may try that too. I did find a can of the Freeze-Off...but the nuts just laughed all the harder! My nut splitter set should be here this afternoon and I really hope it does the trick. It's as much a problem of no way to get any torque to the nut, as it is corrosion, so the nut splitter stands the best chance of getting it off, if I can get enough clearance to get it in there. I've already tried about 4 diff sizes/styles of vicegrips, a pair of vice style channel locks, banged on it good with open wrench and hammer, etc. I get absolutely no budge whatsoever. On most of the stubborn nuts and such, if I can get a socket on there, I use an old worn-out torque wrench as my breaker bar. It works very well.

The problem with my bike is that I can tell, due to missing parts and gaskets, that someone at least partially tore down this bike(not my brother) and then decided to quit and then just put it back together, skipping gaskets and several parts. It seems they then must have run the engine at some point and it leaked like crazy as evidenced by the very thick oil buildup all over the engine. It then sat outside for an unknown time under a carport, then finally sat for a couple more years in the back of my brother's barn/shop. It's not a complete basket bike..but close. For what's it's worth though, I'd still rather start from this point for free(brother gave me the bike) and build a nice custom ride of my own for a couple of grand, than just go sink the same money into something that would still potentially have issues and wouldn't be nearly as custom and mine.

As to bagging, tagging and organizing...I'll try and get a shot of my setup and post sometime today. I agree with OlHoss, not only do I bag and tag, but I organize each set of parts, into boxes(tons of amazon shipping boxes) and tubs. I have big containers for the bigger parts and for the engine, I bought some cheap kitty litter pans to keep everything sorted in. I line the bottoms with shop rags and will wrap parts to keep them from scratching or bumping together.

As to cleaning and such...scotchbrite pads, sandpaper, various buffing/sanding wheels with air tools and also bench grinder, my fav find so far has been a product called Evapo-Rust. It works great and is non-hazardous. I plan to use it on my gas tank and will soak many other parts with it too. I've also got various spray cleaners and a bucket of Chem-Dip w/basket. I'll definitely be adding oven cleaner to the arsenal as well!

I'm really glad that Roach is taking the extra time and effort to document this teardown and hopefully the rebuild too..(hint, hint!!). Salute!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Excellent videos Roach.

My local Case/International farm dealership says they stock a 18mm X 1.5mm by 50 or 60mm long bolt that you can use to remove the rotor/flywheel. If you are located near farm country you can pick one up locally too for about $10-12, the same as I have seen them on ebay. Just check the kaw manual or ebay to see what length you need. I`m sure 60mm is long enough.
Thanks.

I bought mine at the local Bolt Supply House. They didn't stock it, but it was here in a couple days. $7.00.

You don`t show how you are keeping the other parts separated and in order.
I used the same method for everything. I bought a pack of small and large zip-lock bags. I've just been writing a description of the parts on the bags before filling them. Each section of the engine get's it's own cardboard box.

I think I'll start doing what kc_matt suggested and add the corresponding service manual page number to the bags.

VoIP Doc said:
What did you use to produce the video/ Web cam, video camera? What video editor?
I'm using a Kodak Playsport as the camera. It's a great little handheld unit. It's sitting on a flexible tripod.

I'm using Windows Live Movie Maker on my little netbook. I have to record on the lowest setting as the netbook doesn't have enough processing power for editing the high def stuff.

wolflrv said:
I'm really glad that Roach is taking the extra time and effort to document this teardown and hopefully the rebuild too..(hint, hint!!). Salute!!
Yeah, I plan on documenting the entire build.

It's not that much extra work to record what I'm doing. I find it forces me to take my time, and that is a good thing.

I know how much I've relied on YouTube videos in the past. It makes a huge difference if you can watch someone (even if they are not doing everything properly).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/ad269/wolflrv/Bike%20Teardown-organization/

As promised here's a link to a few photos of my shop and organization method. It's a nice place to work on the bike. The bigger bins look a bit rough, but most of those parts are easily identifiable and I only bagged and tagged the smaller bits.

I also included a couple of photos at the end, to show evidence of the lack of gaskets on this bike. I'll know more for sure once I get these stupid nuts off..but I can't see any gaskets at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Discussion Starter #29

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Roach, you ended vid 4 with demonstration on why Rad's should be flushed; cool. But how do I flush mine so that such soot can be drained throughout engine?
I really don't know how you get it out once it's in there. I'm not even sure it's a big deal. I just figured it was a good argument for periodic maintenance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
The nut driver turned out to be way too big..even though it was the smallest I could find online...so....

Call it luck or whatever...but my better half came out and held the engine down tight, while I slid the bike's handlebars down over the wrench as leverage and managed to torque loose the other three nuts. I guess 3 days of chemical assault must of finally done their job. For the stripped bolt I got out my die grinder and a small grinding tip and reground two flat surfaces and then hammered a 8mm wrench on to it. Then using the handlebars again...I finally got enough leverage to break it loose!!

Now all 4 nuts are loose and I'll tear the rest down in the morning!! I'm gonna tear this bike down yet!! Thx to all for the help and encouragement!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Discussion Starter #34

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Watched both of them!! Good job!! You've really got me thinking, I'm gonna need to move the engine to the bench though, once I get the cylinders/heads off. There's no way, I can crack that case on my stand. At least it'll be a bit lighter to lift...LOL!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Didn't get to the shop today...had to run errands and such. Been debating it and think I'm gonna take a few hrs and build about a 3'x3' table maybe 2' tall to move the engine on. That way I can still roll around on my stool and will also make a nice platform to sand and repaint all the bike parts on.

Any new videos yet?? or are we done till the rebuild starts??
 

·
Linkmeister Supreme
Joined
·
7,960 Posts
Didn't get to the shop today...had to run errands and such. Been debating it and think I'm gonna take a few hrs and build about a 3'x3' table maybe 2' tall to move the engine on. That way I can still roll around on my stool and will also make a nice platform to sand and repaint all the bike parts on.

Any new videos yet?? or are we done till the rebuild starts??
Might want to consider building in some reinforced anchor points on the table for tie down straps or chains to hold engine in place while breaking bolts loose on the case.:smiley_th

I noticed Roach wrestling with the engine a couple of times. If a strong young guy has some struggles, us older guys need to build in all the advantages we can, eh? ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
I absolutely agree OlHoss...I think having my wife come out and hold the engine down was a key factor in getting the right angle/torque to break loose those pesky nuts. I am however using a few pieces of trim wood to kind of shim the engine so it doesn't wobble quite so much, but it will still move around if I'm really torquing. I know from the video I'm gonna have fun with the crankshaft...will probably get the wife back out in the shop on that part too.

And yeah...Roach is still making it look really easy...LOL! Us ol' guys have to work a bit harder...if it wasn't for this arthritis in my hands...really...lol!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
Might want to consider building in some reinforced anchor points on the table for tie down straps or chains to hold engine in place while breaking bolts loose on the case.:smiley_th

I noticed Roach wrestling with the engine a couple of times. If a strong young guy has some struggles, us older guys need to build in all the advantages we can, eh? ;)
Man I wish I would have thought that engine stand adapter through a little better. The plan is to re-design it for the rebuild.

A few anchor points would help. Even just one to keep it from twisting while pulling wrenches would be a huge time saver.

FlacoLove said:
Again, Roach, Priceless! I thank you.

I have to go through all this someday just to change my shift shaft (splines are shot & minor leak). I fear that by the time I do (perhaps after this season) that these vids will be gone; thus I am repeatedly looking into these vids; trying to commit to memory. I've never seen the inside of our engine; I now have a good picture to go with the manual. Ride safe.
You're welcome.

The video's won't be going anywhere.
 
21 - 40 of 115 Posts
Top