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Discussion Starter #21
I joined the 2 wires once cut from pig tail. but the 2 left hanging attached to plug in I did not connect so they are taped at the ends. Do i connect them togather to return into J.B.?

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Having started the bike and riding it. wouldn't that be a load test. still having 12.8 volts. there was 13.3. 3 days ago when The lights went out in Md.lol. Im sanding the grounds. and looking under the tank where I reconnected the ignition wires. I did a continuity test at Jb. that just confirms fuses are good. If i could uderstand the current flow. where and why it ends when switched on. I have a new battery I can substitute or take this one to advance auto.

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Discussion Starter #22
No, sounds like you did it right, don't join the two on the plug.

Maybe I misread the other post.

Seems like either the battery is dropping off as soon as any load is put on it. Or, the grounds won't support the current when the switch is on.

Hook a set of jumper cables from a car battery and see how it behaves. Don't jump it from a running car.

If it's still the same, check those grounds off the battery, check both ends.
gotcha

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I also unhooked the R/R. thats what charges the battery Can I leave it unhooked for this test. or plug it back in. im closing in.

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Plug it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Plug it back in.
That was the final solutionafter grinding the 2 grounds at the battery and jumping from the car battery she lit up like a Christmas tree!! I did the blue wire mod. with the needle. switching blue wire to open pin below blue one. de rusted and painted the battery box. tomorrow I will get a new battery and put the original selinoid back on. Thank you for your kindness consideration. and patience. Question How important is an R/R upgrade. would it prevent future stator failure???

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Glad you got it working.
If an R/R fails, it'll likely take the stator with it, which you definitely don't want. If there's any question about the solidity of your R/R, I'd replace with a mosfet type. They only last so long before they give out, so if you're on an older bike with an original R/R, it's worth it.
 

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That's good news, and you're welcome! Wish I'd thought of that sooner though. I finally kept thinking I'd seen this before, battery or a cable connection.

I put a lot of blame on the JB and it's relays for the stator problems, but my bike had a dead stator and r/r when I bought it. You've already bypassed two of those relays. About $100-125 should get you a good MOSFET R/R, but I haven't shopped around lately.

The AGM type battery is worth the extra money, especially on this bike, it's sensitive to low cranking voltage. The AGM cures a lot of the starting problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Glad you got it working.
If an R/R fails, it'll likely take the stator with it, which you definitely don't want. If there's any question about the solidity of your R/R, I'd replace with a mosfet type. They only last so long before they give out, so if you're on an older bike with an original R/R, it's worth it.
Would you recomend a D.B.R/R.? OR OTHER BRAND. why is the mosfit the best choice?

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Discussion Starter #29
That's good news, and you're welcome! Wish I'd thought of that sooner though. I finally kept thinking I'd seen this before, battery or a cable connection.

I put a lot of blame on the JB and it's relays for the stator problems, but my bike had a dead stator and r/r when I bought it. You've already bypassed two of those relays. About $100-125 should get you a good MOSFET R/R, but I haven't shopped around lately.

The AGM type battery is worth the extra money, especially on this bike, it's sensitive to low cranking voltage. The AGM cures a lot of the starting problems.
So AGM is not a brand but the type of glass pak or gel inside? would a new D.b brand R/R be a good choice or not worth the price savings. Do you use facebook at all? I would like to keep in contact with you.

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No, I'm not on FB.

AGM = Absorbed Glass Mat , it's a better type of battery than wet cell or gel.

Not sure what D.b. is. ?? Some have reported trouble with really cheap R/Rs.

The MOSFET type r/r is better than stock at processing the current. Some here will recommend a Series type r/r as well, but my experience is with the MOSFET. I've only had to buy one.

This is where I bought mine: https://roadstercycle.com/ I see he's offering series type also, but it's more expensive.

This is the kit I used: FH020AA ... It's larger than stock so I mounted it behind the left sidecover. It's a better mounting spot anyway, as long you don't blow a lot of fuses. it gets better air flow and a lot less exhaust heat.
 

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First of all, I would not make modifications unless you clearly understand what it will do. Simply making a modification because someone else did it doesn't tend to work very well. In 108,000 miles, I removed the clutch and sidestand nanny switches, removed one of the throttle cables (the "push" cable), removed one of the front brakes, removed the complete CA evap system, the PAIR system, put in a maintenance free battery, and replaced the oem ACCTs with TOC MCCTs. All of this was done for a reason, and I understood what I was doing. The one repair was a stator replacement With a TPE rewound stator. It was still working fine when the engine had a major mechanical failure at 108,000 miles. The original R/R, junction box, and starter relay are still good. The stator had over 80,000 miles on it when it failed, which is not bad for a motorcycle stator. It's only a big deal because of how difficult it is to replace. When you deviate from stock, you need to understand what you are doing, because you are then on your own when things go wrong.
 
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