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Discussion Starter #1
Testing headlamps and blinkers all's good. After a brief shut down no dash lights or ignition. Suspected starter relay and purchased a generic stand in.I have voltage at relay with ignition switch off. And 0 voltage with switch off? next I did the J.B. 2 wire mod. and looked at wires at left top corner for loose or broken connections. May do the blue wire mod. thinking its the headlight relay?? Again no dash lights and with switch on the electricity cannot be found?? what is a logical next step. How do I look at the ignition switch contacts or what would keep voltage from flowing. Grounds are tight. should I sand them off?? I have read many forums looking for similarities I am not having much fun anymore please advise. The middle pic is the rectifier under battery everything else looks un weathered lol


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Would like to help, but it's very hard to understand what you are trying to say. There are four terminals on the starter relay. Between what two physical things are you getting voltage when the ignition is 'off'? Which thing is positive?

Could be as simple as a bad connection at the battery terminals.
 

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One of the large cable terminals on the starter solenoid is always hot, it comes straight from the battery.

No dash lights - Sounds like your ignition switch is faulty/dirty. There are threads here on cleaning the ign. switch "puck". That's assuming you've checked the battery connections and they are clean and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you both for your reply. Any chance you could send me a link for ignition switch puck cleaning? At the starter solenoid the large wire directly off the battery there is 12.6 volts with the key off. key on or p nothing no voltage at solenoid. this pic is with a temporary solenoid I bought yesterday at auto parts store. Does the ignition switch come out of the bottom of dash without taking the dash off? Shouldn't I get 12 volts at the selinoid with key on and at the starter? thank you for your clarity. I realize im a little challenged in that dept.


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So, yeah. The solenoid should have positive voltage on the big wire running straight from the positive terminal of the battery. Always.
The smaller yellow/red wire coming from the ignition should get positive voltage only when the ignition is 'on' and the start button is pushed.

Can you verify the voltage between the battery terminals both when ignition is 'off' and 'on'? Without being there, I would guess you have a bad connection or wire between the starter relay and the battery, or the battery and frame. Battery and frame makes the most sense since you're losing dash lights too.
 

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Assuming you tested the same terminal on the solenoid, I think you should have the battery load tested. There's no reason for the voltage on the battery cable to change that much with just turning the key on. ... except that the battery may be defective, or bad connections as Thorn said.

I've never had to clean my switch, and there are several threads about it, so I'm not sure which threads are the best to give you.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I am putting the ignition back on tonight. the fact that the 12.6 volts are not present while key is in the on position. And button pushed. Could this be a by product of the ignition switch not making contact internally?Im praying that the start button is working.can the start button be cleaned? I checked grounds by using a multimeter, with the red probe on battery positive and black probe on the suspected ground. The battery charges and holds the charge. I agree with you both. I hooked up a huge selinoid it looks amazingly stupid and is acting the same way as the orignal lol. I have never seen voltage just disappear when key is turned on. anyways Im not trying to waste your knowledge by asking the same questions in different ways but thats what it feels like. I tried jumping it with the key on and start button pushed nothing. I did the 2wire mod so that rules out the handlebar kill switch , neutral safety switch ,and the J.B. relay yes did I cover all the benefits of the 2wire mod??? have a safe and restful night Thank you Thorn &Spockster
So, yeah. The solenoid should have positive voltage on the big wire running straight from the positive terminal of the battery. Always.
The smaller yellow/red wire coming from the ignition should get positive voltage only when the ignition is 'on' and the start button is pushed.

Can you verify the voltage between the battery terminals both when ignition is 'off' and 'on'? Without being there, I would guess you have a bad connection or wire between the starter relay and the battery, or the battery and frame. Battery and frame makes the most sense since you're losing dash lights too.
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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you I will do exactly that. Positive battery wire could be intermittent and bad. I will also take off both grounds at the B.box and sand clean.. Thank you have a great evening
I am putting the ignition back on tonight. the fact that the 12.6 volts are not present while key is in the on position. And button pushed. Could this be a by product of the ignition switch not making contact internally?Im praying that the start button is working.can the start button be cleaned? I checked grounds by using a multimeter, with the red probe on battery positive and black probe on the suspected ground. The battery charges and holds the charge. I agree with you both. I hooked up a huge selinoid it looks amazingly stupid and is acting the same way as the orignal lol. I have never seen voltage just disappear when key is turned on. anyways Im not trying to waste your knowledge by asking the same questions in different ways but thats what it feels like. I tried jumping it with the key on and start button pushed nothing. I did the 2wire mod so that rules out the handlebar kill switch , neutral safety switch ,and the J.B. relay yes did I cover all the benefits of the 2wire mod??? have a safe and restful night Thank you Thorn &Spockster

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It might be a good idea to take a step back, and start from scratch. Ignoring the solenoid voltage flip for now, let's get the power to your dash sorted out, since that will give us a foundation from which we can branch out from.

Unplug your R/R (which may or may not have a failed component in it causing weird grounding issues) and with the ignition off, check that you have voltage on both sides of your main fuse. If so, then turn your ignition to 'park' and you should get tail-lights and you should be able to turn on your hazards.

If either one of those things can turn on, then your main circuit for power through the JB is OK. If both of them fail to come on, you've got a connection problem in your battery/JB/harness. If only one of them works, you've likely got a bad ignition puck (each of those uses a distinct switch in the puck, unlikely to both go bad at exactly the same time).

Switching to 'on' causes the ignition puck to re-route your tail-light through the headlight fuse, so you can see if that circuit gives different results than the more direct wire used when in park.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It might be a good idea to take a step back, and start from scratch. Ignoring the solenoid voltage flip for now, let's get the power to your dash sorted out, since that will give us a foundation from which we can branch out from.

Unplug your R/R (which may or may not have a failed component in it causing weird grounding issues) and with the ignition off, check that you have voltage on both sides of your main fuse. If so, then turn your ignition to 'park' and you should get tail-lights and you should be able to turn on your hazards.

If either one of those things can turn on, then your main circuit for power through the JB is OK. If both of them fail to come on, you've got a connection problem in your battery/JB/harness. If only one of them works, you've likely got a bad ignition puck (each of those uses a distinct switch in the puck, unlikely to both go bad at exactly the same time).

Switching to 'on' causes the ignition puck to re-route your tail-light through the headlight fuse, so you can see if that circuit gives different results than the more direct wire used when in park.
Thank you. what is the R/R?

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It’s your rectifier/regulator. Take the left side panel off and it’s under the battery case. Unplug the 6 pin connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
R/R regulator rectifier got it thanks for your attention
It might be a good idea to take a step back, and start from scratch. Ignoring the solenoid voltage flip for now, let's get the power to your dash sorted out, since that will give us a foundation from which we can branch out from.

Unplug your R/R (which may or may not have a failed component in it causing weird grounding issues) and with the ignition off, check that you have voltage on both sides of your main fuse. If so, then turn your ignition to 'park' and you should get tail-lights and you should be able to turn on your hazards.

If either one of those things can turn on, then your main circuit for power through the JB is OK. If both of them fail to come on, you've got a connection problem in your battery/JB/harness. If only one of them works, you've likely got a bad ignition puck (each of those uses a distinct switch in the puck, unlikely to both go bad at exactly the same time).

Switching to 'on' causes the ignition puck to re-route your tail-light through the headlight fuse, so you can see if that circuit gives different results than the more direct wire used when in park.
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Following the white/red wire from the selinoid with 12volts. to fuse box with key on and fuse pulled one side has voltage.with key on I put the fuse in and no voltage either side of 30 amp fuse? key off there is power. At fuse box with key off theres 12.8 at 30 amp fuse both sides. and the same at the 10 amp next door. the other 2 no voltage. with key on or off.

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Fyi I did not join the black/red and yellow/red off fuse box after the 2wire mod. is that wrong Do they need to be togather. is my current heald up there? no dash lights. puck cleaned

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Discussion Starter #16
When I unplug R/R and check I verify 12,7 v at 30 amp and 10 next to it. key in park no voltage or tail lights or hazzard lights or dash. with key on electric is no longer present at selonoid (the cable from battery. key off its there. Last always 12.7 on battery + and~neg.

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Discussion Starter #17
In p. There is almost 6 volts at 30amp fuse. in the on position the same fuse reads .02 volts.

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Fyi I did not join the black/red and yellow/red off fuse box after the 2wire mod. is that wrong Do they need to be togather. is my current heald up there? no dash lights. puck cleaned

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That's wrong. Taking those two wires off the JB and joining them is the Two-Wire Mod. Which two did you use?

I don't think this will affect the dash lights though.


The Two Wire Mod

1) At the Junction Box, find the 10-pin connector (smaller of the two)

2) Locate the yellow/red stripe and black/red stripe wires (Kawi also used all black instead of black/red)

3) Remove the two wires from the 10-pin plug

4) Splice the two wires together securely and insulate properly


On your last post.... I'm back to wanting a Load test on the battery, not a voltage check. If it passes, I would check the grounds off the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
That's wrong. Taking those two wires off the JB and joining them is the Two-Wire Mod. Which two did you use?

I don't think this will affect the dash lights though.






On your last post.... I'm back to wanting a Load test on the battery, not a voltage check. If it passes, I would check the grounds off the battery.
I joined the 2 wires once cut from pig tail. but the 2 left hanging attached to plug in I did not connect so they are taped at the ends. Do i connect them togather to return into J.B.?

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I joined the 2 wires once cut from pig tail. but the 2 left hanging attached to plug in I did not connect so they are taped at the ends. Do i connect them togather to return into J.B.?

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No, sounds like you did it right, don't join the two on the plug.

Maybe I misread the other post.

Seems like either the battery is dropping off as soon as any load is put on it. Or, the grounds won't support the current when the switch is on.

Hook a set of jumper cables from a car battery and see how it behaves. Don't jump it from a running car.

If it's still the same, check those grounds off the battery, check both ends.
 
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