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FastHamFreddy
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115 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I cant say for certain this is not normal, but I just notice a vibration/noise coming from the stator compartment. It happens when I first turn on the bike, it seems to be present when the bike is revved up to a certain point (the choke is on) or it seems to do it as the bike is coming down after the gas is revved.

I have done the stator mod, not sure if that makes any difference, or maybe something has come loose and I should take it apart.

Thought I would check here before trying to go for a ride tomorrow.

Cheers!
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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16,080 Posts
do you feel it in the bars or the seat?how many miles are on the bike and has it sat for a long time?did it do it before the stator mod?could be the balancer bushings going south...

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Giggity!
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Excessive vibration that has started while no work has been done, I would check your engine mounts before I started tearing into it.

Have you done an oil change lately? Rubber bits in the screen?
 

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FastHamFreddy
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115 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
The bike has roughly 25k on it. Can't feel it in the bars or seat, can only feel the vibration if I put my hand directly over the stator casing where the noise is coming from. It will only make the noise if it is revved to a certain point it seems. For example, if it is choked up to a certain point, or if I give it gas it will do it for a second as it is revving down. It seemed to go away once the bike warmed up, but I ran out of gas to be certain of this. I will give an update a bit later so I don't wake the neighbors.

I rode it about 2 or 3 weeks ago for about 2 or 3 hours. I am not sure if the vibration/noise was there before I did the stator mod, or if it was there before at all. It is just something I noticed yesterday while working on it. It almost sounds like something is rubbing just enough to cause the sound.

The last time I did an oil change was about 2 or 3 weeks ago as well. I still have the issue where oil will shoot out from the oil filter. I can't for the life of me figure that out, but I have limited it to happening when I have the choke on and give her gas at the same time. I am assuming it is a pressure problem.

I will take a look at the engine mounts. I appreciate the feedback!
 

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Super Moderator
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2,570 Posts
all the vibration items are addressed above.

I will address this.



I still have the issue where oil will shoot out from the oil filter. I can't for the life of me figure that out, but I have limited it to happening when I have the choke on and give her gas at the same time. I am assuming it is a pressure problem.
Only a couple things can cause this..

#1 bad oil filter.
#2 bad seal between filter and block (or adapter housing if you wish to call it that).

#2 can be caused by either #1 (bad gasket), or parts of the gasket (or entire gasket) from previous filter stuck to the engine.

oil filters are designed to withstand much more pressure than the oil pump is capable of providing.
 

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FastHamFreddy
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115 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The noise does stop once the engine heats up. Not sure if that means its no big deal, but fingers crossed! haha, please correct me if I am wrong though.

Michigan, I have gone through countless filters at this point. So it is doubtful that it is the filter or the seals on the filters at this point. I have tried every which one that I have found on here, even the stock Kawasaki one. I also brought it to a mechanic, whom I brought it back to 3 times every time it did it (no charge). The end result was him telling me he has no idea. It isn't that big of a deal, as I said it only does it when the choke is on and I give it gas at the same time. Any feedback would be very much appreciated, I would like to fix the issue.
 

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FastHamFreddy
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115 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Pictures are worth a thousand words, ano oil change... $24.oops. ;)

Double sure the previous rubber seal isn't still there?


I wish that was the issue. I have been asked that so many times, I check it about 50 times before I put a filter on now.
 

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I had similar vibration issues. There were no rubber bits in the oil screen discovered when doing oil changes. I knew something wasn't quite right, so I did extensive troubleshooting and narrowed it down to either the balancer gear or the main bearing. Since I did not find any gold metal flake in the oil, I assumed the bearings were still good.
The symptoms were: vibration when cold, intermittent "knock" at idle, lugging sound when revving the engine and when engaging first gear, vibration in the handlebars and pegs but only at certain RPM's. The bike still had plenty of power and ran fine other than what was mentioned.

Check out this thread and see if you can find any free play in the balancer gear. I give details in post #8 on what to look for.

Remove the left stator cover and the top pickup coil and you will be able to watch the balancer gear turn as you rotate the engine (by turning the flywheel counter clockwise).
Looking at the left balancer gear, you will see 2 large holes in the gear. Inside each opening, you should see a rubber damper and a metal post sticking through it (from the hub on the other side of the gear). As the cam turns the hub, the rubber bushings will give a tiny bit prior to the outer gear starts moving. Here is what I observed:

Old dampers - outer gear did not turn until the hub almost touched the gear opening (the rubber dampers were nearly completely compressed).

New dampers - The outer gear started moving immediately with only a TINY bit of give from the bushings (less than 10% compression of the damper bushing)

When I removed the old ones, they looked and felt pretty much like the new ones (no visible signs of cracks or missing rubber, but the inner metal ring was a bit worn), but obviously they had softened after 14K miles and 10 years. You could not tell that they were softer by using your hands to feel them.



I pulled the left side case off and replaced the dampers myself for about $40 and it resolved all the above issues.
 

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Check to see if your stator is rubbing against your alternator rotor. I just did the stator mod too and something didn't sound right. I pulled the stator back out and saw the bottom was hitting my rotor. I miss still trying to figure out how to set it up right without damaging my stator any worse than it is.
 

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I tested the stator and it all checks out but you can defiantly see where it was hitting and I have small marks around the rotor. I can see why a lot of guys don't do this mod... any tips on setting this up right without fear of my stator burning out on me?
 

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I tested the stator and it all checks out but you can defiantly see where it was hitting and I have small marks around the rotor. I can see why a lot of guys don't do this mod... any tips on setting this up right without fear of my stator burning out on me?
Did you fabricate your own stator plate or buy one?

Might try loosening the stator screws and see if it will shift to the right direction. Need to check it really close.

If the plate is too much off-center, making another is probably the only way. It might slip if you slot the screw holes, and the slots would have to be in precisely the right direction.
 

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Plate was bought from GC extreme. I'm just having a hell of a time centering the gap. It could also be the rotor. Heard of a rotor being bent before and causing the same issue.
 

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You can unhook the plug wires and watch the rotor while cranking, see if there's any wobble.
 

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I bought the plate from GC extreme. I repositioned it. And seems to be fine now. I do have another stator on order because the bottom of mine melted a bit.
 

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I don't see any wobble, I might have just been an idiot and now I have a melted stator.. not sure if I messed up the mod or not.. but it was defiantly rubbing the inside of the alternator
 

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You can unhook the plug wires and watch the rotor while cranking, see if there's any wobble.
What if there is a wobble? I have that problem right now with an '02 VN750. Looks like prior owner botched a stator mod...one trigger coil was touching the rotor and the stator was fried, looks like it was also lightly touching the rotor. Is there a common cause for the wobble?
 

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Super Moderator
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really only 3 causes for a rotor to wobble

1 bent crankshaft end (rare, very rare)
2 rotor not fully seated (not properly torqued, or something amiss with the key/keyway)
3 bent rotor (usually from improper removal or installation procedure)
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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16,080 Posts
hello Noah750.would you mind doing an introduction in the newbie section so we can learn a little more about you,like wrenching experience, riding experience, location( might be a local member willing to help)? it helps us get to know you so we can help you better and is greatly appreciated. thank you

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