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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed my TPE stator and a mosfet regulator. With the bike idle and the battery is fully charged I see 14.- volts. Rev it and it increases a little bit. Well I went for a quick ride and on the way I noticed the bike stopped charging. Stopped at a shop to check and see what was going on. Voltmeter at the shop said the battery was around 13v and didn't increase much, never broke 14 volts. Played with the bullet connections from the stator and on the way home it seemed to charge again. It looks like one of the legs was loose or got disconnected. With two of the legs still connected why didn't it charge?

Can someone also explain if the bike should be charging no matter what rpm range? I have heard that the bike doesn't charge much at idle. But on that ride my meter, got the one that is just an led light, went from green to amber a lot. Didn't seem to stay green for that long before going amber. Sometimes I would see it flash red but I think that is when the connection got loose.

The warning indications are as follows:
Green, light charging fine, The window is about 13.2 to 14.8 volts.
Green and red alternating is over voltage (over 15 volts, not good)
Amber, (bike running) hook up a voltmeter on your bike and see what's happening with it running.
Red or red flashing means your bike is probably not running and you have your lights on, or if your bike is running there is trouble in paradise and you need to take action not to get stranded.
 

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From what I've read, with the TPE stator it should be charging something worthwhile at or near idle, and a consistent higher charge above 2000 rpm, like about 13.5v more or less.

Did see one post where the voltage was a consistent 14v all the time.

13v at the battery isn't bad. Fix the connections and see if the lights go away and charging is more consistent.

Don't have the stator in my signature finished just yet.
 

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Sparky!!!
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TheOne2043, I am going to pick apart your post so as to give you the best most accurate information I can possibly give.

I just installed my TPE stator and a mosfet regulator. With the bike idle and the battery is fully charged I see 14.- volts.
Your findings here are congruent with A TPE Stator combined with the MOSFET R/R... The Mosfett R/R by itself with out a TPE Stator, will have the same results.

A MOSFET R/R Should produce 14.5V through all RPM Ranges

With two of the legs still connected why didn't it charge?
It didn't charge because our Stator is a three phase power generator. If one leg isn't connected, then the R/R can't get the correct AC Voltage to convert into DC Voltage.

The warning indications are as follows:
Green, light charging fine, The window is about 13.2 to 14.8 volts.
Green and red alternating is over voltage (over 15 volts, not good)
Amber, (bike running) hook up a voltmeter on your bike and see what's happening with it running.
Red or red flashing means your bike is probably not running and you have your lights on, or if your bike is running there is trouble in paradise and you need to take action not to get stranded.
I don't like these LED Voltage gauge thingies... they aren't accurate, and with the TPE Stator and Mosfet R/R can give false readings (especially on the overvoltage side of things). The best solution is to have an Amp Gauge or an actual voltage guage. this way you can see if you have a charge or discharge or neutral charge, or you can see the exact voltage range you are at. have the flashing LEDs to alert you of a problem but don't rely on them to tell you what the problem is.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well I started to do some testing. With the headlight unplugged idle the bike sits around 14v's. Give it some throttle and it increases a tiny bit. Now with the headlight plugged in it dropped to 13v's and never seen it hit 14v's. Is there something with my headlight circuit that its pulling more power? Any suggestions to check?
 

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What was the battery voltage before you started the engine?

Was that 13v at all rpms or just idle?

I would warm it up until the fan comes on, that's the largest draw, and check it with both the lights and fan on.

If your battery is fully charged, 13v isn't all that terrible. You don't really want a full 14.5v all the time, it could overcharge the battery or overheat the R/R if too much of that current isn't being used.

A weak battery can pull the voltage down as well. What's the highest voltage the battery will show after being charged, disconnected, and allowed to cool down? The voltage will be highest as soon as the charger is turned off, then it drops off as the battery cools for about an hour, then should level out between 12.5 and 13v depending on it's age and condition.

Wet cell or AGM battery?
 

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Sparky!!!
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So your battery was at 12 volts last week, you assume it still has over 12 volts a week later even though your idiot light tells you to check the charging system. So if you're battery is still at 12volts then you have no problem.

What head light are you running? Have you done the blue write mood on the junction box? If the battery is over 13 volts static charge (key on engine off) then your charging system won't charge to 14.5 volts. But I think you have a week charge, bad ground, and possibly bad stator connections. Where did you get your notary r/r?

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think it was a H4 stock sylvania one from advanced.

I have the led volt meter spliced into the running light on the front of the bike.

The headlight light comes on when you turn the key, so I believe that is the blue wire move. I still don't understand how that works.

I sanded down both the ground terminals and connecting points a few days ago so it has nice shiny connections. As far as the stator connections, yesterday I went ahead and soldered them, removed the bullet connectors. The RR is from ROADSTERCYCLE.COM, I even took the butt connectors off and soldered them as well yesterday that I had used previously to connect the stator leads from the RR to the stock harness.

Side note this is how I have my charging system setup:

Stator leads to the stock leads in the harness, cut the old RR plug and tapped up the three now unused wires and the remaining three stator leads go to the new plug for the Mosfet.
 

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I think it was a H4 stock sylvania one from advanced.

I have the led volt meter spliced into the running light on the front of the bike.

The headlight light comes on when you turn the key, so I believe that is the blue wire move. I still don't understand how that works.

I sanded down both the ground terminals and connecting points a few days ago so it has nice shiny connections. As far as the stator connections, yesterday I went ahead and soldered them, removed the bullet connectors. The RR is from ROADSTERCYCLE.COM, I even took the butt connectors off and soldered them as well yesterday that I had used previously to connect the stator leads from the RR to the stock harness.

Side note this is how I have my charging system setup:

Stator leads to the stock leads in the harness, cut the old RR plug and tapped up the three now unused wires and the remaining three stator leads go to the new plug for the Mosfet.
With a Mosfet R/R, I would have avoided the Stock Harness....if you still have battery/charging problems, your hook up to the R/R may be the problem.
SlimVulcanRider, as well as others, are more clearer on R/R connection than I.

WilliamTech
 

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WT is correct, the R/R kit came with 3' of black/red 10 ga., 2-wire. That wire should run from the pos/neg on the R/R to the batt. Positive goes through the Maxi fuse that came with the kit.

The three stator wires, using some larger gauge primary wire supplied by you, connect on the other side of the new R/R.


Re: The blue headlight wire swap:

This bypasses the trigger and relay setup from the stator and makes a direct connection to the headlight. The stock system has a trigger wire connected to one stator wire running to a relay, as soon as power comes from the stator, the relay trips and power goes to the headlight. After the mod, the headlight comes on as soon as the key is turned on.
 

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Sparky!!!
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Stator leads to the stock leads in the harness, cut the old RR plug and tapped up the three now unused wires and the remaining three stator leads go to the new plug for the Mosfet.
this is one of your problems. the MOSFET R/R needs to bypass the OEM harness and use just the stator legs, and run new wires directly to the battery. Since the BLue wire mod has already been done, there is no need to splice into the Yellow wire on the JB to activate the head light Relay.
Secondly, the Volt Meter should be wired into a relay triggered by the running lights, taking main power from teh accessory lead in the headlight bucket. that way it reads actual voltage, and wont read the voltage drop of the light system.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Alright I will cut my connections again and run from the stator direct to the RR. Then tape up the not needed stock harnesses.

Can you explain in more detail how I should wire the meter, I don't understand.
 

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Sparky!!!
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The big square thing with numbers is a standard automotive 5 pin relay. Pin 85 is ground, pin 86 is the trigger which needs to go to a key on source like the running lights, pin 30 is battery (accessory lead in the headlight bucket which gets constant battery voltage with key on or off) pin 87A isn't used because it is hot when the relay isn't triggered, and pin 87 is your power to the voltmeter. by running this setup, you will have minimal voltage drop between the actual battery voltage and what the meter says.
 

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Sparky!!!
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I am going to be AFK all week end, got a project of my own going on... NVR... I might post up pics in the GB when all is said and done... But if you run into any problems send me a PM, I get those directly on my phone.
 

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Any other suggestions or changes I should do to help ease lighten the electrical load?
The Coil Mod improves your battery voltage to the coils.
Using another relay, you place true battery voltage to the coils...stronger spark/increased performance.
I mounted that relay to inside the right frame...up against battery box.
hope this helps
:smiley_th +1
 

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14 gauge wire on our bikes can easily handle 40 amps...something our little stator cannot produce. 10 gauge wire ampere capacity is 100 amps...massive overkill. If your bike wiring doesn't seem sufficient, it's most likely a weak electrical terminal connection somewhere, which may have been your problem all along. Installing the new 10ga wire merely bypasses the problem. My MOSFET is wired into the stock harness and has no problems. Then again, I've gone through all my electrical connections, cleaned and use dielectric grease on them.
 
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