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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All!
Newbie member here on this site and a recent (1month ago!)...buyer of a '96 Vulcan 750...
It had 19.6k miles on it when purchased. Bike ran beautifully and completed my long quest of owning one again, after I had to sell my Shadow 700 in CA prior to my move to FL 7 yrs ago.
Okay, the issue: Like I said, everything was fine, until this morning. Went to jump on the bike to get to work, and the thing cranked slowly & didn't start.
I normally give it a little choke, and it starts right up. Not this morning. I really thought the battery was dead or comatose, and was thinking of bump starting it, but when I turned the bike around, and gave it one more try, and it started.
Super!--Rode to work with no issues (17miles freeway--one way!).
Bike started fine after work--and I headed home. About 3miles from home, the bike started lugging down some, acting like it was out of gas ( it wasn't--about 30 miles on a fresh tank). This seemed to happen in the lower rpm's (4k), however, when I gave it throttle it took off like the bike its supposed to be!--I made it home, but the last miles I felt like it was gonna die...pulled into drive way, put in neatral, and it idled okay for about a min, then it coughed and died. I let it set a bit...and was able to start it again, but now wary of going out tomorrow. Any suggestions? Is this the start of the battery dying, stator going, carbs clogged, fouled spark plugs, ect, ect??
Not really a mechanic, but I can follow directions well! Wasn't sure where to post because of the nature of the issue, so I posted here. Thx for all the help in advance!

Jim in Jacksonville, FL
 

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Dr. Vulcanstein
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If you can get a cheap voltmeter you can check the system, its hard to determine without knowing output readings. Like you stated it could be the battery, stator, r&r, ect.

Oh yeah, welcome to the jungle! I also live in Fl (cocoa beach area), I lived in Jacksonville a few years.
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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I kinda doubt it's electrical since if the stator or R/R was bad he wouldn't have made it 17 miles rinning off of a "weak" battery. Still, a bad ground could cause this problem. This sounds like a potentially interesting problem.
 

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Sparky!!!
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I kinda doubt it's electrical since if the stator or R/R was bad he wouldn't have made it 17 miles rinning off of a "weak" battery. Still, a bad ground could cause this problem. This sounds like a potentially interesting problem.
Correct me if i am wrong, but isn't the ground a major component of the electrical system?

A few possibilities jump to my head on this... First a bad ground, (either battery to frame, or Battery box to engine... although I would lean more towards battery box to engine for this particular issue). Secondly a bad ignition switch. The contact springs are prone to getting week, and the contacts them selves get worn after years of use, Usually a good cleaning can get the contacts working correctly again, and stretching the springs helps a little as well. Third thing I would look at is the wiring to the right hand control switches (run/stop and starter button). Look for loose wires or anything out of the ordinary.
 

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Just a regular guy
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Welcome! I am in Jax also, in the Arlington area. Where are you? If your battery is a traditional wet cell, and is more that a few years old it wouldn't hurt to upgrade to an agm battery.
 

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I'm in St Augustine (World Golf Village) a little south. I'm no expert, so I'd say listen to what Slim and the other guys say. If it is electrical, Slim can help you troubleshoot it for sure.

For peace of mind cleaning and checking your grounds won't really cost you anything but a little time. Make sure the cables are tight on the battery terminals. And if you think it might be the battery, you can take it to Advance Auto or someplace similar and they can load test it for you for free. That would rule out the easiest things anyway.
 

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fuel?

Check your fuel isn't polluted with water.
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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Kinda mis-spoke myself in my last post. By electrical issue I was referring to the stator an R/R
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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jmo.....
After Battery check/replacement (1st) ....
Sounds intermittent .....
Is the fuel tank rusty ? Possible rust/contaminants in your Petcock / Carbs / Fuel delivery system.
Try Seafoam in the tank.

:smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thx so far!!

Hey All....
Thanks so much for the much needed advice. Here's an update--First, I READ through all of the Vulcan Diaries, looking for specifics on my current problem.
Secondly, ran out and finally found the NGK Iridium plugs ( found them at Advance Auto on Baymeadows Rd.) Don't bother Auto Zone ( special order )), and the folks at Pep Boys gave me that deer in the headlights look....An interesting note...I was pointed in the direction of Advance Auto by the cool dudes @ Adamac HD..( not sure they knew I was riding a rice burner, but whatever) they looked the plugs up, and said hey, we don't have them, but Advance has them in stock!
So, anyway...changed the plugs and bought the Seaform for the tank.
They bike started promptly without hesitation, but I could tell she was still struggling at lower rpm's. I could rev it fine..I let it warm up and took a short ride. It's still riding fine, but slow speed it still feels like it will die. When I let it idle on its own, it drops to like 600rpm. I think it should be what--11-1200rpm's?
Anyway, payday is next week, and I'm in the hunt for the gel battery. I saw some at Sears under the DieHard brand, but can't find any documentation in store as to what one goes with the Vulcan. May have to buy it online.
I will be looking under seat at the current battery, and do some checks on the wiring and grounding systems. Stay tuned...
For my fellow riders in or near Jax--- I'm right off Old St.Augustine/Losco Rd in the Mandarin area.... thx again..!
 

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Sounds like a carburation issue,run some more seafoam thru it, check the vacuum lines for kinks. You may want to try adjusting the mixture screws.
 

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ass hole extaordinaire
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you might just need to turn up the idle with the hard stop screw

its the little black nob on the left side of the carbs
 

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..have a vulcan good day!
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12 months since last updated.....

Manufacturer -- -- -Model -- --CCA -- --Availablity -- -- -- -- -- Additional Notes
BatteriesPlus -- X2-15L -- -- --210 -- -- BatteriesPlus --Deka ETX15L re-branded- - $95.00 Store-Nov-2012
Big Crank -- -- -- ETX15L -- --210 -- -- --Online Retailers, eBay Deka ETX15L re-branded --- Ebay - $68.00 Nov-2012
Deka -- -- -- -- ETX15L -- -- 210 -- -- -- Online Retailers, eBay
Die Hard -- -- 44005 -- -- -- --210 -- -- Sears YUASA YTX14AHL-BS re-branded $80.00-Store Nov-2012
EverStart -- -- ES14AHBS -- 210 -- -- Walmart - Terminals are swapped, so install backwards and remove bottom spacer.
Interstate -- -- CYTX14AHL-BS --210 --Retailers ( YUASA YTX14AHL-BS re-branded )
MagnaPower -- ETX15L -- --210 -- -- -Advance Auto Parts Deka ETX15L re-branded -
Manga Power 12v Sealed AGM -- 220CCA ($81.99 – April 2013)
WestCo -- -- 12V14L-B -- -- -220 -- -- --WestCo
YUASA -- -- YTX14AHL-BS 210 Online Retailers, eBay $78.00 online Dec-2012 ----$88.00 Dec-2012
Magma Power --ETX15L -- 220 CCA Advance Auto Parts 220 CCA $77.00 - Online -Take 15% off -Enter code DEM11 at checkout. Online Only.
Scorpion -- -- YTX14AHL-BS Scorpion 12v 210 CCA AGM BatterieStuff.com $66.00 + Sept 2013 BatteryStuff Part #: sYTX14AHL-BS Replaces: YTX14AHL-BS, YB14L-A2, YB14L-B2, 12N14-3A,CB14AL-A2

NOTE: Ebay / Online prices quoted above are from a single online 2012 search, additional search’s may produce different prices.
 

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That Advance Auto is the same one that I got my iridium's at. I work up that way. :)

I got my AGM battery from Advance also. If you order it online, you can often find a coupon code for 20% off or more. And you can order online and pick it up at the store, so no waiting. That's how I got mine.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Almost sounds like dirt in the float needle and is flooding at low rpm's.
 

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While it wouldn't hurt to check the electrical system, considering that the Vulcan 750 seems to be prone to electrical issues, I suspect your problem is in the fuel system. Since you said it runs fine at higher RPM, that pretty much eliminates a fuel supply problem to the carbs. That leaves the carbs themselves as the most likely culprit. Unfortunately, the Vulcan carbs are not easy to remove and replace, but I would do it anyway. Do a complete disassembly and cleaning. These are complicated carbs compared to what carbs used to be. They are CV carbs, which means they have vacuum diaphragms and slides, and instead of a choke, they have a vacuum operated enricher system. Carefully check the main diaphragms (on top of the carbs) and the coasting enricher diaphragms (under a cover with 3 screws on the sides of the carbs. I found one of mine almost completely melted (probably ethanol damage) and was having idle issues, but it ran fine at higher speeds. Also remove and inspect the needle jets.


IMO, carbs are and always will be superior to EFI, but the ethanol in todays gas does bad things to them. Ethanol and carbs are not very compatible. Many think the answer is EFI, I think it is getting rid of the ethanol.
 
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