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Discussion Starter #1
While my engine is out for rebuild, I am doing the tuxedo mod! The plate as is has ribs offset from the mounting holes. If you tighten the screws down, the new plate will warp. I used JB Weld to glue 2 grade #8 3/8 washers to the plate to provide the same spacing as the ribs. It now is solid and straight when I tighten everything down (pictures 1-3, 3 showing warp).

I also ground off the heads of some longer bolts, to align everything during assembly (picture 4). I leave two in and screw in the third screw. Then I remove one and add another cover screw, and onto the last one.

Lastly (also picture 4, upper left screw) I have some short screws so I can run the engine with the cover off (for timing adjustments).

I did NOT yet cut the notch in my outer cover, since I am still using the original stator. However, if it fails, I can cut the wires and notch at that time.
 

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Looks like a clean job, nice work!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I'm not getting the outer cover to go on. I ground off the ribs as instructed, but the three mounting holes are hitting the plate, leaving a gap. I ground down the inward side of the mounting holes until they are level with the ribs, but still it doesn't fit. I don't want to grind more until I know if I am even doing the right thing.

How thick is the new plate supposed to be? I didn't see any dimensions in the video or the Facebook link. Mine is 1/8" thick.

The video shows an almost sloppy amount of silicone gasket. I can't imagine he left a gap the whole way around!

The silicone in the screw holes implies that he didn't use the O rings on the screws.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looks like a clean job, nice work!
Thanks!

And I went back to the original post about the mod, and it says 16 gauge (or 1/16"). I might have to do a new plate...
 

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Grumpy Old Man
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Looks like a really nice job
I thought I saw a video somewhere , they made their own gasket (1/16” or 1/8 thick ?) to move the cover outward enough to be tight before bottoming out. ? Just a thought if I understand problem correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I read through about 11 pages of the sticky thread, and apparently the mod requires making your own gasket.

However, after the grinding I did, I'm left with a 1/16" gap.
That means if I change me 1/8" plate out for a 1/16" plate, I should be able to use the factory gasket and o-rings again!
 

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I read through about 11 pages of the sticky thread, and apparently the mod requires making your own gasket.

However, after the grinding I did, I'm left with a 1/16" gap.
That means if I change me 1/8" plate out for a 1/16" plate, I should be able to use the factory gasket and o-rings again!
That was a good part of the reason I avoided that mod. Kluged gaskets usually end up leaking, especially if I kluge it.
 

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I read through about 11 pages of the sticky thread, and apparently the mod requires making your own gasket.

However, after the grinding I did, I'm left with a 1/16" gap.
That means if I change me 1/8" plate out for a 1/16" plate, I should be able to use the factory gasket and o-rings again!
This looks like a good tip to fixing the gasket gap problem. Should post it to the best plate mod thread and/or get it in a sticky post.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Once I get the parts back, I'll verify that it works and, I'll post more pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
After 3 attempts, I have a tuxedo mod that uses the factory gaskets with no gaps!

It took a lot of ingenuity from my friend to get this to work. The plate is held to the original housing by 4 set screws. These screws are in 4 tapped holes added to the original side housing.

In the top left, there is a small pin hole (1/16). There is a second near the bottom (3/32) but hard to see. These are alignment holes. The stator was wrapped with thin cardboard (beer can box) and put in place. I drilled both of these holes through the plate into the side housing, to mark the position. Then I assembles it on the table and put it back in.

The other beauty of this method is now the stator is held by the side housing instead of the outer cover. You can pull the outer cover off without removing the stator. Convenient for the coil mod, or checking the timing, or in my case, aftermarket ignition planned for sometime in the future.

The stator wires still go through the original hole in the original housing. Replacing the stator, will require a cut in the outer cover for the wires.
 

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After 3 attempts, I have a tuxedo mod that uses the factory gaskets with no gaps!

It took a lot of ingenuity from my friend to get this to work. The plate is held to the original housing by 4 set screws. These screws are in 4 tapped holes added to the original side housing.

In the top left, there is a small pin hole (1/16). There is a second near the bottom (3/32) but hard to see. These are alignment holes. The stator was wrapped with thin cardboard (beer can box) and put in place. I drilled both of these holes through the plate into the side housing, to mark the position. Then I assembles it on the table and put it back in.

The other beauty of this method is now the stator is held by the side housing instead of the outer cover. You can pull the outer cover off without removing the stator. Convenient for the coil mod, or checking the timing, or in my case, aftermarket ignition planned for sometime in the future.

The stator wires still go through the original hole in the original housing. Replacing the stator, will require a cut in the outer cover for the wires.
Good info, needs a sticky post. Spread this far and wide.
 

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FREEBIRDS MC CENTRAL NY
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Good info, needs a sticky post. Spread this far and wide.
Usually, it gets sticky if you spread it far and wide...

Sent from my A501DL using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I thought about cutting off a short piece of the 1/16" and 3/32" drill bit and leaving them in the alignment holes to prevent the plate from shifting. Do you think that's needed?

The 4 small nuts do not have any thread locker or lock washers. I left off the thread locker because the small set screws are only locked with blue thread locker. Am I asking for trouble down the road with those coming loose over time?
 

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As long as the screws stay tight, it shouldn't shift, but locator pins aren't a bad idea.

Blue Loctite should hold the screws, yet allow disassembly. Red Loctite requires either heat or a very good grip of the tool to break the bolt loose.

Lol at Doc's sticky comment, stay brilliant my friend!
 
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