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Discussion Starter #1
I seem to have lost my turn signals and flashers. Is there a way to check the flasher unit? A new one is $50.00+. It will click when the key is turned on or the signal button is moved one way or the other. Have checked all connections under the seat and in headlight. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Perry
 

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I don't want to sound like a smart alek, but you said you checked the wireing under the seat. Did that include the fuses? They're on the left side near the battery box. You have to open a small plastic cover to get to them.

Ride Safe
Wayne :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yea, I checked the fuses. I think I have narrowed it down to the flasher or a bad ground. Talked to a mechanic at work and he told me how to check the flasher. Will try that and see.
 

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Might not be your problem, but worth checking out.

I was goofing around with my VN today to try and figure out why my flasher and directionals were not working. I turned the bike on and suddenly they worked, but the headlight and taillights didnt work. Huh? Well, I turned the bike off and on and then the directionals/flashers didnt work again. I turned the key back a millimeter and everything worked. Looks like my ignition switch is goofed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I figured mine out, the flasher is bad. I had bought one at the auto parts store and it didn't work. The reason being(after about an hour of troubleshooting) the pins were opposite of each other. Put a jumper crossing them and they work fine(flashers and signals).

DMAG, did you know that your headlight does not come on till the starter button is pressed and released after turning the key on. Check the plug on the flasher, it is just behind the battery. You can get to it by removing the left side cover.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
For everybody's info the EP34 flasher works great on the Vulcan. Cost about $10 at your local auto parts store.
 

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Quick flashing with LEDs

Thanks KLFX300 for the info about the EP34.

I just installed "trailer" LED tail lights on my bike and had a few issues. First off, the flasher would go into panic mode, like a bulb was burned out. I got an EP34 as suggested by KLFX300, and that did indeed work like the stock flasher, but still went into panic mode. So, I opened it up (very easy to do, mine was a Tridon Stant brand) and could see three resistors, a integrated circuit chip, and a 4.7 uF capacitor on a circuit board. Figuring that the capacitor was used for pulse timing, I removed it and replaced it with a 10uF tantalum capacitor (Radio Shack). If you try this, make sure to observe the polarity on that capacitor --- mine was "positive" toward the edge of the circuit board. My guess was right, the new capacitor slowed the pulse rate down to something quite nice. I lost the "burnt filiment" feature, but the only place with filiments now is in the front and I can see them operate.

The next problem was the logic of using trailer lights with combined turn and brake LEDs. So, I got one of the "converters" for sorting that one out and installed it . . . but my turn and break lights barely lit at all! When I measured the voltage, they were only getting about 7.5 volts (motor not runnig), which was clearly not enough. So, instead of running the output from the converter directly to the lights I ran it to two relays instead and used these to switch the brake/turn lights. Worked great! Nice bright turn and brake lights now.

I hope this helps someone. I did a lot of head scratching to get this far!

Bill
 
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