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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just got a '95 VN750. I checked all the lights when I first got it and all worked. I have ridden about 50 miles and now that signals won't flash. The front light running light work while the back do not, but neither flashers work nor do the hazards work. Is this a bad flasher relay or will I need to dig deeper. Brand new bike owner and a newby riders so it could be that I forgot to turn the signals off until a few miles after the turn. Also if this helps, the indicators for the signals don't work either.
 

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I just got a '95 VN750. I checked all the lights when I first got it and all worked. I have ridden about 50 miles and now that signals won't flash. The front light running light work while the back do not, but neither flashers work nor do the hazards work. Is this a bad flasher relay or will I need to dig deeper. Brand new bike owner and a newby riders so it could be that I forgot to turn the signals off until a few miles after the turn. Also if this helps, the indicators for the signals don't work either.
Only the front signals work as running lights too. (3 wires and dual element bulbs)
The rear signals only have 2 wires and a one element bulb for turn signals and hazard flashers. No running lights.

Not sure if your syptoms point to a wiring problem or a faulty flasher unit.
A replacement flasher is a cheap way to test which it is.

An ordinary signal flasher from any automotive parts supplier can be used. You will find the OEM flasher unit under the seat, on the back left side of the battery box. I don`t remember if it is a 2 or 3 pin flasher, so just take it in to compare. Someone posted a part number a while back, but I don`t recall where to find it.
 

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Since they all stopped flashing together, I'd check flasher relay and/or wiring. Could be as simple as a loose connection.

The front flasher/turn signals are supposed to be lit on all the time as running lights, but the rears are not. So that is all normal.
 

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I would start with the flasher relay. Just get an EP-34 electronic relay at any Auto parts store. They are a couple of dollars more than the OEM style mechanical relay but the EP-34 is a must if you ever decide to go with any LED bulbs. So you will be ready for the upgrade.:smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the advice. $10 bucks and all is well.
 

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Switching all the bulbs on a VN750 is not a gimmick thing or show off thing, it's a reliability and money saving thing. Since LED bulbs use way less amperage than standard bulbs and they take the load off the electrical system. Mainly the stator and regulator. Stator replacement requires the engine to be pulled. If you plan on keeping the exhaust crossover tank(goat's belly).....moving the regulator to just behind the left passenger foot peg is a must. The excessive heat from the goats belly rising into the regulator is overheating it a killing it way faster than normal use.
 

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Switching all the bulbs on a VN750 is not a gimmick thing or show off thing, it's a reliability and money saving thing. Since LED bulbs use way less amperage than standard bulbs and they take the load off the electrical system. Mainly the stator and regulator.
Stator replacement requires the engine to be pulled.
Well, not always. :) Tuxedo Seven has given us an option now. A $20 case modification does not require the engine to be pulled to replace the stator.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16839

If you plan on keeping the exhaust crossover tank(goat's belly).....moving the regulator to just behind the left passenger foot peg is a must. The excessive heat from the goats belly rising into the regulator is overheating it a killing it way faster than normal use.
It is an unproven belief that the heat from the goats belly damages the reg/rec while mounted under the battery box. Many, including me, have moved it to the left passenger peg as Bret suggests, because "It can`t hurt", but there is no definative proof that it helps either. As an example, KM says he rode his VN750 for 5 years with the r/r in the stock position with no problems.

If I ever have to replace the OEM r/r, I will change it out for a Shindengen/mosfet r/r, and mount it back under the battery box. It operates much cooler than the Kaw reg/rec, but I still have the goats belly.
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18361
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18195&highlight=shindegen+mosfet
 

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I am with you OL HOSS .....but a regulator has heatsinks because the natural action of a working Regulator creates alot of heat.......and needs to dissipate it quickly to keep the inside components from reducing their life.......At mainly Idle or very low speed moving...the goats bellys' very high heat rises into the heatsinks and case of the regulator.......effectively heating the regulator and making the regulator extremely overheated......now If you dont sit still for long periods of time Idling or If you have removed the goat's belly......than excessive heat is not a problem.......just look at every 80's Honda motorcycle....the regulator is mounted on the outside of the bike to keep cooler air in contact with it(usually below one of the side overs) ....they KNEW it was very important to keep it as cool as possible...your correct......it has not been proven that the factory mounting position causes failure of the regulator.....but it is probably the "WORST" place it could have been mounted on the bike.
 
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