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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a set of switches for my bike. I received them today, and to my horror they are different. I never thought about the different years and the self cancelling turn signals on my 85.
The new switch don't have the self cancelling setup on it.
My wiring has 2 connectors from the left switch that has 9 wires on one pigtail, and 6 wires on the other. I believe the 6 pin connector is for the self cancelling setup.
The new switch has 2 connectors, main is 9 pin, and the other has only 3 pins.
Can the new one be modified to work? I really don't care if it has the self cancel or not. It don't work anyhow. I make it a habit to turn them off after about a half a block.
I looked on the forum, but couldn't find any posts concerning it.
does anyone know how to do the mod? Or do I just leave the 6 pin connector unplugged? Or will that affect them? I tried looking at the diagrams in the online manual, but couldn't make out anything on there.
I'm going to use an Ohm meter tomorrow to chase the wiring down on my switch to see if I can just go with the 3 wires and intergrate them into the harness.
HEEELLLLPPPPP!!!! :(
:beerchug:
 

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I recently purchased a set of switches for my bike. I received them today, and to my horror they are different. I never thought about the different years and the self cancelling turn signals on my 85.
The new switch don't have the self cancelling setup on it.
My wiring has 2 connectors from the left switch that has 9 wires on one pigtail, and 6 wires on the other. I believe the 6 pin connector is for the self cancelling setup.
The new switch has 2 connectors, main is 9 pin, and the other has only 3 pins.
Can the new one be modified to work? I really don't care if it has the self cancel or not. It don't work anyhow. I make it a habit to turn them off after about a half a block.
I looked on the forum, but couldn't find any posts concerning it.
does anyone know how to do the mod? Or do I just leave the 6 pin connector unplugged? Or will that affect them? I tried looking at the diagrams in the online manual, but couldn't make out anything on there.
I'm going to use an Ohm meter tomorrow to chase the wiring down on my switch to see if I can just go with the 3 wires and intergrate them into the harness.
HEEELLLLPPPPP!!!! :(
:beerchug:
Man that is a tough one ,mine did not have self cancelling signals ,this much i do know there is a distance sensor on the front wheel of yours and a timer too I think,.it is probably doable if you isolate the power wire coming to your switch and put it on the center tap of the new switch and run down the signal wires and put them on the two outside terminals of the new switch,

Do you have a link to the onlilne schematic?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have downloaded the manual from the site, but I had seen somewhere on here that someone had a color shematic, but I haven't been able to find it.
 

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If you can't find the color schematic shoot me a PM. I have the Haynes manual with colored wiring diagrams for all models and can scan them for you tonight if you still need them
 

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I think it is best to replace the 3-pin connector of your new switches with the 6-pin connector from your old switches.

The wire colors on the the Service Manual diagrams are hard to read, but to me it looks like the wire colors on the harness side of the 6-pin connector are: BL/O, LO, W/O, W/R, BL/W and Y/O.

Of these the W/O, W/R and BL/W are used for turn signal canceling. These are left unconnected.

The BL/O wire goes to the Hi/Lo switch, and the wire color should be the same on both sides of the connector.

The LO and Y/O wires go to the starter lockout switch (operated by the clutch lever), and are the two other wires on the 3-pin connector (the colors may vary). The Y/O wire goes to the common pin of the lockout switch, which you should be able to figure out with an ohm meter.
 

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this much i do know there is a distance sensor on the front wheel of yours and a timer too I think
The distance sensor is mounted inside the speedo bucket, in a slot on the back of the speedometer head. The "timer" is most likely part of the TS cancelling unit itself.

There is a way to use the later switch(es), but the notes I made for myself on that are on my old 'puter, and I haven't got access to it right now. Pappa's write-up appears right, tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That was my plan, I am going to replace the 3 pin with the 6 pin connector. I will chase the wires down, and I have a good multi-meter to check which wire is which.
The self cancelling part don't work on my bike anyways, so it's no big deal if I have it or not.
The solenoid in the handlebar switch itself is bad, and it hasn't worked since I bought the bike. The sensor in the speedo head works. Thanks for the wiring details pappa.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
On a side note, on pappa's message, he has on the wiring schematic the color LO.
It's LG for Light Green. Thought I'd let everyone know.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think I have it figured out. I replaced the 3 pin connector with the 6 pin, and installed the 3 wires I needed. 2 are for the clutch interlock, and the 3rd was for the hi beam on the headlight. I hooked up the battery and all the turn signals work, but the horns don't.
I think it might be the battery connections. I'm going to test it at the connector tomorrow and see if they work or not.
I need to check the forum to see if there is a way to turn the headlight on so I can check for low/hi beam.
 
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