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VN 750 1994 RED/BLACK/SILVER
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Managed to get down to looking through parts and outlay of the machine! Do I fit the new stator, while it is in this state of strip down or build up! As far as I know the old stator is okay. But I will open the engine up and check out the state of play.
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You can see the stator by removing the round cover on the left side.

Engine will need to be removed or tilted to get the larger stator cover off the left side.

You can't tell much about the stator by looking except looking for oil sludge caked on, or physical damage.

If you take the main stator cover off check the balance damper bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You can see the stator by removing the round cover on the left side.

Engine will need to be removed or tilted to get the larger stator cover off the left side.

You can't tell much about the stator by looking except looking for oil sludge caked on, or physical damage.

If you take the main stator cover off check the balance damper bushings.
Cheers, I will look in there 2morrow, just stripping paint of the old mudguards, I want them to be a bright colour n' not have too much black. It looks nice, but makes the bike, difficult to see @ night, so I need some contrasting bright spots. I am looking at spray chrome or a good brush paint chrome, like " coach paint"!
I also want to do some electrical mods, wiring updates, charging meter, move the Rectifier e.t.c. British bikes used to put the Zener diode in a heat sink on the bottom yoke of the forks, out in the open air!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I didn't get chance to look , the stator, but addressed the final drive shaft area and so far everything looks good. The bike may have had a new to it unit put in in 2014 as the final drive unit, had "breaker" date codes on the inside. So far so good the splines are in good "nick". I have decided to remove the Swinging arm and Chech the drive shaft @ the engine drive end/ Carden shaft connection, before I rebuild the bike.

Having a good shaft drive is a relief to be honest as the number of VN 750s over here seems very low. Does the Kawasaki GT 750 have an interchangeable drive as these were a very common machine over here, with many courier drivers using them.
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Not sure I would spend time removing the swingarm to look at the driveshaft.

If it's not clunking, vibrating, or squealing, it's probably fine. If there's no slack in the swingarm bearings, they're ok too. Nothing there to grease except the bevel gear splines and those can be reached behind the rubber boot.

You'll need to realign the swingarm when you install it.

What I mean is, unless you're replacing universal joints, the 'cardan' joints, there's not much you can do with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not sure I would spend time removing the swingarm to look at the driveshaft.

If it's not clunking, vibrating, or squealing, it's probably fine. If there's no slack in the swingarm bearings, they're ok too. Nothing there to grease except the bevel gear splines and those can be reached behind the rubber boot.

You'll need to realign the swingarm when you install it.

What I mean is, unless you're replacing universal joints, the 'cardan' joints, there's not much you can do with it.
Ummh! I thought I would repaint it, I pulled the drive shaft and it snapped out of the fitment, I just thought whilst, things were at this state of play, I would diligently, check the whole set up! Is realignment of the Swinging arm difficult?

I saw the video of Alex Roth, useful information, pulling the rear drive out, with nothing under it to break it's fall to the floor, thought he was lucky not to crack the final drive case. Experience has taught me to think thinks through, I always use cardboard, blocks of wood, rolls of bin bags to soften impacts, much more careful now, than in eagerness of my youth!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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Swinging Arm out! Rear transmission Cardan shaft removed all of the rear drive, hub e.t.c.

Mudguards on the way to be renovated, paint stripper, wire wool, Emery paper & elbow grease!
Wanted to refurbish the front wheel, but the Allen bolts holding the discs on refuse to budge! Removed bolts from the Regulator/Rectifier so as to find a cooler place for it. The PO had sprayed nearly, everything Hi Cote satin Matt black, looks like Lucifer's mount, so I need to carefully lighten some things up to get a more visible plot with a good contrast of Light & Dark. Hand tool Wood Tool Kitchen utensil Gas
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I thought they called them wings in the UK, the fenders, mudguards. Maybe the wings are just on the front of cars.

Is that before or after on the mudguards?

There's thread locker on the rotor bolts, enough heat from a propane torch will melt the thread locker. Make sure to use a metric hex wrench. Many of those bolt heads get stripped out, then the fun begins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Mudguards are on motorcycles, front & rear! You are right about left n' right wings on the front of a car. The mud guards are during work and much better later on. I will rust treatment them, Phosphoric acid in the form of Jenolite, Kurust e.t.c.
The problem is that hear in the Winter, if they think it is going to freeze the throw the most corrosive cheapest rock salt on the road and it corrodes metals rapido like and being lazy People me included rarely wash it off when they get home!

Because I have British "English" bikes, I have two separate sets of tools! Metrication was a "con" our politicians signed up to and it decimated our engineering industry and caused eventually people here to be dumb @ arithmetic.
The climate here is Maritime so often very wet. The front of the fork leg tubes have faint scarring on them from road salt, it may polish out.

i have thought about a two-tone effect on the mudguards or a pinstripe effect.

The petrol tank is already sprayed up by the PO, there was a Vulcan fly-screen , marked with a "V", but I have a brand new Givi Screen A23, a heavy duty screen braced with a "H" section of chromed metal and mounts on the front forks was marketed for the Virago, but can be adapted to fit the VN.

Do I fit manual ACCT's @ this point? The engine has only 20,000 miles on it! Funny on paper my 4 cylinder ZL 400s have the same top speed as the VN, though the delivery will be different I am sure.

Also tuning, with hydraulic valves there is not much you can do head wise. I like the original air filters on a cruiser style, so I thinking of fitting "K & N's ", air-filters.
However, if I had two bikes one I might "Cafe Racer-ize and put the VN engine in a Vincent type situation, with a specially adapted frame.

I have a spare featherbed frame if I do not go ahead and fit an all aluminium small 60s 4 cylinder Rootes car engine in it next year!

Are there any VN specials anywhere ?/ Been built. Being widowed leaves you with a lot of time on your hands which you have to fill, to stop the onset of madness!
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Wow that tank has a nice deep shine on it.

The acid sounds like Naval Jelly that we use here.

Oh yeah, we get salted too, and some places use a liquid salt brine.

We thought the British started the metric system, haha.

You can do MCCTs now or wait until it makes noise. Might run a while before it's needed.
 
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