[Sgt Mike]

Go to this link to find some eye opening data about oil and air filters. The most expensive may not, and propably is not the best.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html

 

[jm1515]

Go to this link to find some eye opening data about oil and air filters. The most expensive may not, and propably is not the best.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html

This site is crammed w/ great moto stuff...and some not so great. I've been checking in for abt a year now...some very good stuff indeed.

 

[Bruce]

I think I was the first one to post that link on our VN750 Yahoo group. It's good stuff but he doesn't give regular oil enough credit and is bit mistaken about the purpose and types of parafin in regular oil. Synthetics are fantastic but something like $1.79/qt Shell Rotella 15W40 changed every 2,500 miles (or less) will certainly get ya to the 100,000 mile mark.

 

[sunnyorlando]

Oils - Nat vs. Synthetic

While browsing through various topics here and at the Yahoo 750 group, it made me wonder about oil types. Being that my bike is new, I just had the first 600 check done at the dealer. I discussed oil types with them and they suggested to stay away from synthetics at least for the first 2 or 3k miles. OK by me.
However, given that we are in Florida and most of the year the temps are above 75 degrees, I asked about using heavier oil such as a 20/50 – the agreed and that is what I have in it now. I just think that a 10/30 is too lite for the hot Florida days. They use (of course) Kawachem - I will do future oil changes myself.

I have read this thread...My questions are:
Ø Are oils really different for bikes than for cars?
Ø To use or not to use synthetic?
Ø Sounds like some mix natural with a % of synthetic? I thought this was not recommended in any application...??
Ø If yes to a mix, what is the % for each?
Ø If yes to use synthetic or mix, then at what point (mileage) should I consider the change?
Ø Brands – Sounds like there is a liking for Amsoil and Rotella – I have never used either. Where is Rotella found? I use Mobil 1 for my boat and Castrol for my cars. Any other suggestions?
Ø Filters – The dealer of course recommends the OEM filter for
$19.95 !! They actually said that using any other filter could raise questions in case of warranty repairs/claims. (Sure it would…)
Ø I had thought of using (what I thought would be) and upgrade from OEM: Wix, Fram, Purolator. Thoughts on this?

Thank you all…
Jaime

 

[Dianna]

Walmart can be your friend when it comes to oil changes. They carry both Shell Rotella and Mobil one oil.
My bike has rotella and a super-tech oil filter from Walmart (was 1.99 now is up to a whopping 2.09) SuperTech 2000 ST7317 or ST6607 (long or short filter), both manufactured by Champion for Walmart. Chanpion also makes the mobil One filter.
FRAM is not recommended. Fram quality has gone way down and you might be better off using a coffee filter instead. (A little exaggeration but close)
There are some full synthetics and a few here swear by them. However I don't think you want to switch back and forth. Just like oil and water doesn't mix, some oil and synthetics don't either. Some even suggest "cleaning the system" before switching to make sure there are no residues left behind.Your choice of oil will be a personal preference but you will notice the difference in the shifting since we have what is known as a 'wet clutch'.
The Rotella gives me a smooth clutch so I am happy with it and the price.

 

[sunnyorlando]

Thank you Dianne...

Further research (on my own) on the Mobil 1 filter and oil indicate that these are not designed for motorcycle use. However - Mobil does make a mc specific full synthetic. See: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/Product_Information/Motorcycle_Oils_Collection.asp



By the way - The Walmart brand as well as many others such as Mobil1, PepBoys, Advanced Auto, etc. are manufactured for private label use by ChampLabs - not elated to Champion. The also make the Kawasaki oil filter part #16097A (160971061).

See: http://www.colorfil.com/PDF/Tech_B/PH7015.PDF and http://www.champlabs.com/. I contacted them.



I am thinking of using the Mobil 1 MX4T based on the feedback I have read. And for filter, I will find the private label PH7015 which will prob cost 1/2 of the Kawasaki but is par with the Purolator Pure One and Mobil 1 in filtration qualities. I am not sure about using the automobile rated filter as suggested in http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/ - especially being under warranty. Although his study is very detailed and very informational. I have reached out to Mark Lawrence for further clarification on this subject.

Are you using Rotella T (synthetic) or just Rotella?

Thank you !

Jaime

 

[Bruce]

Jaime,

A motorcycle forum favorite (ours and every other one I have been on!) is the regular Rotella T 15W40. It is a fantatstic oil, certainly earns the title "best bang for the buck". You really don't need a better oil in a modern liquid cooled engine but if you FEEL better about a full synthetic then I'd suggest Amsoil 10W40 motorcycle formula. The BEST thing to do is change it a lot when you first get the bike, like at 100 miles then 300, 1000, 2000 and then every 1500-6000 depending on what you use and how you ride. I use a semi-syn 10W40 or Rotella T 15W40 and change it every 1500-2000 and the filter (SuperTech or Amsoil) every 5k. I just prefer doing that over a synthetic every 5-6k. Now for my car I do prefer extended drains and use Mobil 1.

 

[jm1515]

Re: Oils - Nat vs. Synthetic

While browsing through various topics here and at the Yahoo 750 group, it made me wonder about oil types. Being that my bike is new, I just had the first 600 check done at the dealer. I discussed oil types with them and they suggested to stay away from synthetics at least for the first 2 or 3k miles. OK by me.
However, given that we are in Florida and most of the year the temps are above 75 degrees, I asked about using heavier oil such as a 20/50 – the agreed and that is what I have in it now. I just think that a 10/30 is too lite for the hot Florida days. They use (of course) Kawachem - I will do future oil changes myself.

I have read this thread...My questions are:
Ø Are oils really different for bikes than for cars?
Ø To use or not to use synthetic?
Ø Sounds like some mix natural with a % of synthetic? I thought this was not recommended in any application...??
Ø If yes to a mix, what is the % for each?
Ø If yes to use synthetic or mix, then at what point (mileage) should I consider the change?
Ø Brands – Sounds like there is a liking for Amsoil and Rotella – I have never used either. Where is Rotella found? I use Mobil 1 for my boat and Castrol for my cars. Any other suggestions?
Ø Filters – The dealer of course recommends the OEM filter for
$19.95 !! They actually said that using any other filter could raise questions in case of warranty repairs/claims. (Sure it would…)
Ø I had thought of using (what I thought would be) and upgrade from OEM: Wix, Fram, Purolator. Thoughts on this?

Thank you all…
Jaime

Jaime...
You'll get tons of feedback on this, which is the great thing abt this group...
Here's my take based on web searching for 2yrs on this...
First of all, do not use a 10w/30 oil. As you say, it's probably too lite for the FLA heat, but more importantly, every multi grade oil of weight below 40w has the so called 'friction modifiers' in them. You can tell this by the API service circle or starburst on the back...it will say 'Energy Conserving' on the bottom half. The general consensus is that this is not good for our wet clutches, and you should stay away from them. Kaw says 10w/40 is reccomended, but 15w is fine.
If you believe the marketing, motorcycle oils are different than auto oils. In reality, they probably have a slightly different formulation (mostly added sheer stabilizers). These would help against pure metal to metal contact, like if you had a massive leak, but are present in the regular good quality oils in large enough quantities. Change your oil/filter regularly and often (3~4k miles) and this is not a problem, IMHO.
Synthetics?? Sure...you can't get better protection. But......
In a water cooled bike like the VN750, using a good quality dino oil and regular, timely changes make the extra cost of synthetics a negative in my book...If I owned an air cooled or air/oil cooled bike, I'd run synth to be sure.
I have no experience w/ mixing dino and synth, but I would (and have) used the Semi-Synths on the market....Castrol GTX worked fine for me, then I went to Rotella T 15w/40 regular abt 20,000mi ago and have been happy...
Never used Amsoil, I hear it's great, but the heavy duty counterparts to Rotella are Chevron Delo 400 and Mobil Delvac 1400. These are available at WalMart....
Filters....Champion Labs makes the Bosch 3323 and WalMart SuperTech ???? filters. These are great filters. The Bosch, my choice, has a paper/synthetic filter media that lasts longer and filters down to 25mic or so...
it's 6bux, available at most good auto shops. The OEM filter are of good quality also.
As far as the warrantee goes, AFAIK, it is illegal for the dealer to require you to use the OEM consummmable-type product (like filters, oil, etc) to preserve the warrantee...as long as you choose a suitable replacement w/ the same or greater specs.

 

[Dianna]

OOops sorry, Rotella T is such a big favorite I guess if I said Rotella most would know Rotella T is the one I was referring to. *L* There are others?
I did try Castrol GTX which was fine, but I did notice a slight difference in shifting ease and went back to the Rotella T 15w40. It proves to be a good year-round oil here in Arkansas.