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Discussion Starter #1
First let me say thank you to all you guys for the great advice. My new to me bike is running perfect. Pulls 10,000 rpm like nothing, 48 mpg all around, splines happy, rectifier way cool. I want to quiet the engine down by doing some form of Kanucks modification. I cannot understand the threads on doing it. Bolt lengths vary- 4 inch,3 1/2 inch, 1 1/2 inch, diameters vary 6 mm- 8 mm, one part goes then seems to stay. I can't grasp the procedure. I don't want to ruin a great running bike so any clarification would be appreciated.
Jim::doh:
 

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The stock Automatic Cam Chain Tensioners seem to be a bit on the weak side, and when the internal spring loosens up, it tends to make the cam chain slap inside the engine case - not a good thing. There are various means and methods to address this (repacking or replacing the spring) and one method is to replace the whole thing with a manual adjuster. I've done this on my Vulcan instead of messing around with it. The bolt length is needed to introduce the correct amount of pressure against the cam chain, and once you get that you tighten the locknut and the cam chain is properly tensioned and quiet.

My advise is to do nothing unless you're getting a cam chain slap - you'll hear it, don't worry. If you don't hear it, you're good to go (at least for now) and if you do hear it, I can recommend the MCCT as a fix. It worked for me.

Vulcan 750 is a great bike, isn't it?

Happy Riding!

Chaos
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The stock Automatic Cam Chain Tensioners seem to be a bit on the weak side, and when the internal spring loosens up, it tends to make the cam chain slap inside the engine case - not a good thing. There are various means and methods to address this (repacking or replacing the spring) and one method is to replace the whole thing with a manual adjuster. I've done this on my Vulcan instead of messing around with it. The bolt length is needed to introduce the correct amount of pressure against the cam chain, and once you get that you tighten the locknut and the cam chain is properly tensioned and quiet.

My advise is to do nothing unless you're getting a cam chain slap - you'll hear it, don't worry. If you don't hear it, you're good to go (at least for now) and if you do hear it, I can recommend the MCCT as a fix. It worked for me.

Vulcan 750 is a great bike, isn't it?

Happy Riding!

Chaos
Thanks Chaos, I would like to try it. I am just trying to make sense of Kanuck 69 three pages on the mcct modification, Under Forums, Engines, 2nd page.
Jim
 

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I cheated and bought pre-manufactured MCCTs, so I can't speak to Kanuck's instructions, but I can tell you my engine is quiet now.

Good luck!
 

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I cheated and bought pre-manufactured MCCTs, so I can't speak to Kanuck's instructions, but I can tell you my engine is quiet now.

Good luck!
You didn't cheat,you just could afford the good stuff ,main thing is you fixed the problem.
 

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Giggity!
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Good to hear you resolved the problem. Sorry you couldn't follow the write up. I am more of a do'er than an explainer. Sorry about that but yes, my method is for those who don't want to fork out the cash for the true MCCT's. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good to hear you resolved the problem. Sorry you couldn't follow the write up. I am more of a do'er than an explainer. Sorry about that but yes, my method is for those who don't want to fork out the cash for the true MCCT's. ;)
Kanuck, Does the cap screw just come off and then the new longer screw just screws down into that opening and pushes against the plunger screw. This would only require removing the cap screw right?
Thanks Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What needs to be removed then? The piece under the cap screw?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Technically just the spring & the couple extra parts that were there to constrain the spring. The bolt then creates the pressure on all the reassembled parts.
Thanks Kanuck, I think I have it figured out now.
Jim
 

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725 Posts
Like Kanuck said not sure what will happen with the spring left inside of housing. With it left in it may interfer with the adjustment of the MCCT's. You have to finger tighten the MCCT to get a feel of the adjustment, so you do not over tighten the adjuster. Just tightening it down with a wrench it is really hard to feel the correct amount of tightness.
You can go with how the bike sounds but that is still hard to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Here is what I'm trying to get clear.
1. Does the entire ACCT housing need to come off?
2. If not , you take off the screw cap, and then does the plunger screw just unscrew out.
3. If this is the case, then the springs and other parts are discarded, the plunger screw is put back in, and then the new bolt is screwed in to tension the plunger screw.
Am I on the right track ? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey guys, If you don't mind I would like to put an end to this thread. My bike runs great do to all the information on this site so I have decided not to do anymore modifications. I was always told " If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it ". I'm leaving well enough alone.
Thanks,
Jim
 

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Pretty sure cam chain noise, from a stuck plunger or lack of tension, is indicative of damage occurring within the engine.
 
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