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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's time for a new rear tire . Do you have any idea how a torque this nut down with the exhaust in the way? I can get a box wrench on there, but it's going to be hard to get a torque wrench on there. What have other people done?
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I'd just use the box end wrench, tight enough to not come loose. A specific torque number isn't so important there.

Otherwise, you'll have to remove the pipe and torque it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'd just use the box end wrench, tight enough to not come loose. A specific torque number isn't so important there.

Otherwise, you'll have to remove the pipe and torque it.
I didn't think about this at the time of posting, but the axle bolt needed to come out as well. I removed the right passenger peg and was able to rotate the exhaust down enough to get the bolt out.
I removed the left passenger peg, but the left/rear exhaust didn't want to rotate as easily. I think I have enough room to torque the suspension nut, but not quite enough room for the axle nut. I can always get close to specified torque by putting X weight Y feet away from the bolt head.

Good news: this is my first look at the splines since purchasing it. I trusted Scooter, and he was true to his word! The splines look great!

I should have the new tire (Shinko Tourmaster 230) later today.
That's what I have in the front.
I wasn't a fan of the old tire. It felt loose in the corners. Not sure if it was due to age, or just how the tire handled.
My previous bike had a Shinko 777 in the rear, and it was always rock steady in the corners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I really liked the 777, but my front had a defect and lost chunks of rubber. Shinko refunded me. I bought a replacement locally and they didn't carry the 777. They recommended the Tourmaster 230. It doesn't feel quite as good/smooth/precise as the 777, but still satisfactory. They're supposed to last longer than the 777s. My front has 4k on it from this bike, but it's the wheel/tire from my old bike. I think I put 3-4 k on it then, so 8k total? I'll have to check.

Agreed with the 777 tread pattern. Looks great!
 

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230's are a good tire, 777HD are great. I'm running a 160 777 on the rear. Looks good and I'll never come close to the load rating.
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2001 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
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230's are a good tire, 777HD are great. I'm running a 160 777 on the rear. Looks good and I'll never come close to the load rating. View attachment 53182
Good looking tread pattern. I like that you used the wider 160. I just put the Bridgestone Exedra 150 on my bike. Did not think to try the 160 but I will next time if it fit well on your bike. The Bridgestone is a good design for grip and responsive at all lean angles but it does lack the visceral appeal of a big honking-wide tread. 😎
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Oh yeah, kinda hi-jacked the original post it was about torquing the rear axle nut. I had exactly the same issue Jason. I removed the right foot peg bracket loosened the rear pipe clamp and it slips off quite easily and then getting the axle and wheel out was easy (had bike on center stand on a one-inch thick wood piece and had to remove license plate).

Manual calls for 110 Nm on that axle nut which is quite hefty. I could feel it when I removed the nut with a large high-quality Craftsman adjustable wrench. (no 27mm box end in my kit). So I just tightened it back hard and tight with the same wrench from memory. This wheel hub design uses the spacers around the axle and against the frame so there is little danger of over-tightening, so make sure to use hefty enough torque like Spockster said.
 
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