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Yahoo VN750 Group Owner
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The manual cam chain tensioners are good. The acct replacement springs and rebuild kit are a different story.
 

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The mechanical cam chain tensioners are good. The acct replacement springs and rebuild kit are a different story.
Could you explain a little bit more as I am about to do my Vulcan in the next week or two and I going to contac TOC today or tomorrow for parts.
 

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Could you explain a little bit more as I am about to do my Vulcan in the next week or two and I going to contac TOC today or tomorrow for parts.
The complete manual cam chain tensioners are well built and work well. You could save a lot of money and do the mcct conversion described on this forum. The acct springs and rebuild kit from TOC are not worth the money and do not solve the problem. Their springs are not much heavier than the factory ones. I replaced my acct springs with 9000 miles on them with the new ones and you couldn't tell the difference between the two. I took them out in 5 minutes because the noise was the same and did the mcct conversion. TOC was good to do business with but I feel the replacement springs aren't worth it and doing a mcct conversion is the only way to go.
 

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I was skeptical myself since I have an 06 with low miles....but I now have them and they are beefy, well made, easy to install....and you won't believe how quiet it makes the engine.

They are worth the money IMO
 

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Patriot Guard Rider
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TOC is totally safe and secure.
 

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I installed my mcct's a few weeks ago, and was amazed. I spoke to someone at toc. A few days later I had them with easy to follow instructions on how to install. it could not have been easier, and it they work fantastic.
 

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Yoshi, I bought mt MCCT's about two months ago and they are of the highest quality and solve precisely the problem they were designed to address. I had some qualms about tackling the job myself but Jim corresponded via email and helped me feel more confident about the project....which really wasn't that big a deal at all. When the post office screwed up the delivery Jim was very helpful and concerned in helping me to track them down and a happy ending was had.

I cannot recommend TOC more highly. Go for it, you'll be glad you did.

Cheers,

Matt
 

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1986 VN750
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On the left side, you have to bend the clip for the external oil line to remove/put on CCTs. Be careful not to bend the oil line itself.

On the right hand side you'll need to move the coolant reservoir out of the way while you do it. A little oil may drip out while you are changing the CCT, but noting crazy.

Hand tighten the MCCT until you feel it contact the CC guide. Tighten the lock nut, and start the bike. Once it's idling loosen the lock nut carefully and tighten by hand until the clacking on that cyl goes away. Tighten the locknut Repeat for the other one. Warm up the bike, and adjust accordingly. Some need to re-adjust a tad after they warm up.
 

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So I got the MCCTs on. What a snap and WHAT a difference. If you don't get these for your ride you are just torturing yourself with a loud engine. Best 100 bucks I ever spent on a bike
just so I know I've got it adjusted correctly.. there should just be a general whirr from the tensioners once you have them set??
 

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So I got the MCCTs on. What a snap and WHAT a difference. If you don't get these for your ride you are just torturing yourself with a loud engine. Best 100 bucks I ever spent on a bike
just so I know I've got it adjusted correctly.. there should just be a general whirr from the tensioners once you have them set??
Yep, but not any clacking. Once you ride it a bit you might have to readjust, tighten them just a bit, if you have the clacking at different rpm and load conditions.
 

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no more clacking but i am noticing i am running hotter now. I'm not sure if i have done something wrong or if i have a new issue, but after riding a bit, i would listen to it idle and after just a couple of minutes at idle after my ride(20 miles) the temp gauge was almost at RED. what could i have done. I noticing the same thing after i first installed them, then rode around town for a few minutes, came home and see if i needed any readjust. while doing the readjust, i was again almost at RED. I did notice when i first installed them, as i tightened down, it did cause my idle speed to slowdown. Could i have them too tight??
 

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Could be a bit tight, back then off slightly and see how she sounds. As for the overheating, I don't know? Is your fan kicking in? I never get more than 1/2 to the red area.
 

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MCCT instructions from Jim

I see that you got your MCCTs installed, nice, right?

When I was doing mine I emailed Jim and he provided the following instructions, which were quite helpful. After reading them I did not need to refer to them again but it was great having them just in case:

Removing the Existing Cam Chain Tensioners:

Front: Unbolt the mounting nuts. The oil pipe bracket will need to be bent out of the way to remove the ACCT. Kawasaki recommends removing the oil pipe, however, our experience has been that this is not necessary.

Rear: You need to remove the Coolant Reservoir Tank to access the rear tensioner.

(NOTE FROM MATT: Pay attention to how this comes out, it took me some head scratchin' and figgerin' to get 'er back in again because I wasn't paying attention up front)


Installing the new tensioner:

Ensure the plunger is retracted fully before installing then install the tensioner and o ring. Make sure you have not started the bike or rotated the engine while the tensioner is removed from the bike.

Install the MCCT and tighten the hold down nuts.

Next, turn the adjusting bolt by hand (the one sticking out the back of the tensioner) until you feel some resistance. At that point, you can lightly snug down the locking nut to lock the adjusting bolt in place. If you do not snug down the locking nut, when you start the bike the adjusting bold will back itself out.

Start the bike, loosen the locking nut, and adjust the adjusting bolt to make the bike 'run quietly'. This is more of an art than a science, so the best I can tell you is to fiddle with the adjusting bolt - backing it in and out - until the bike sounds right. The extremes are - too tight, and you stretch the chain and excessively wear the chain guide. Too loose, and the chain will slap around possibly damaging the inside of the engine, or jumping a gear on the camshaft sprocket, potentially ruining the engine. The adjustment is not *that* particular, and the extremes are pretty obvious, so the adjustment becomes fairly straightforward once the bike is running.

Back the bolt out until the bike make noise, then tighten the bolt until it quiets down, but not too much. Then tighten the locking nut and you are done!

Repeat on the other side.
 

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no more clacking but i am noticing i am running hotter now. I'm not sure if i have done something wrong or if i have a new issue, but after riding a bit, i would listen to it idle and after just a couple of minutes at idle after my ride(20 miles) the temp gauge was almost at RED. what could i have done. I noticing the same thing after i first installed them, then rode around town for a few minutes, came home and see if i needed any readjust. while doing the readjust, i was again almost at RED. I did notice when i first installed them, as i tightened down, it did cause my idle speed to slowdown. Could i have them too tight??
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