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Discussion Starter #1
Okay bear with me all you VN750 guru's.

This is an awesome forum and I really appreciate all the feedback thus far. I'm trying to get the confidence to do some maintenance that until previously reading here had no idea I needed to do. Soooooo one of the first things I want to do is replace the fork oil, I already do the oil, but now know to use the side drain INSTEAD of the bottom one, OOPPS!

But back to the fork oil change, how the heck do you get off the top cap on the fork????

:confused:
 

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HAWK
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Here you go, First put the bike on the center stand. Wut a jack under the motor to tip the bike back to get the front wheel off the ground. The top caps unscrew and reviel anothe cap, this is the real cap the other one is a dust cap. Helps if you have 2 people. there is a drain on the back bottom of the fork, you can remove it and let the oil drain. To get the top cap off takes care. YOu have to push it down, I used a socket and a extention. You may have to tap it with a hammer, there is a clip under the cap you have to remove. I used a small hook tool, Be careful not to loose any part. I recomend getting new clips about $4 each. The cap is undeer the pr4essure of the springs so dont let it go or you will be searching for it, I will fly. This is where you fill the shopcks from after you have reinstalled the drain plug. Here are a few picts when Bulldog and myself did his, we removed the forkes because his seals were leaking.
http://www.bulldogsbike.com/forkseals.htm
I hope this helps, I would get a Clymers manual and follow, I might have mised a step.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks I do already have a Clymer manual and plan to review, review and then review the procedure some more before delving into it.

Appreciate the help
 

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I put a socket on top of the inside cap. Put a towel under the handle bar. Then used a short pry bar under the handlebar and on top of the cap. Came out in a second very easily and under control. The reverse to re-install. Only need one hand to pry, and one to put the snap ring back in.

Jon
 

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HAWK
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93VN750 said:
I put a socket on top of the inside cap. Put a towel under the handle bar. Then used a short pry bar under the handlebar and on top of the cap. Came out in a second very easily and under control. The reverse to re-install. Only need one hand to pry, and one to put the snap ring back in.

Jon
Great Idea, Last time I did one the forkes were out of the bike to replace seals.
 

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Ccspinner said:
Great Idea, Last time I did one the forkes were out of the bike to replace seals.
Easier to let the triple clamps hold the fork tubes.

Jon
 

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HAWK
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93VN750 said:
Easier to let the triple clamps hold the fork tubes.

Jon
True but you have to remove them to replace the seals.
 

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Ccspinner said:
True but you have to remove them to replace the seals.
Right, but easier to get the caps out with the forks on the bike, then take off the forks, change seals, put forks back on the bike, reinstall the caps. Its like having a really steady second pair of hands.

Jon
 

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Hi all, I am getting ready to this myself. After the success of the rear spline job I thought I could handle this! I picked up the oil at the shop today and asked how much oil per fork and they said 2.3 oz. I said that seemed low but they said that was what it was. However, I just read in my Clymer's that it says 10.48 - 10.82 oz. I'm leaning towards the Clymer's on this one. Any thoughts anyone?

Also the book says to remove the wheel/fender but is this necessary for just a fluid change and not a seal change? Thanks for any assistance!

Jeff
 

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HAWK
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You are right my Clymers says 10.48 to 10.82 us oz.
I would follow that.
Here is a link when Bulldog and myself did his front shocks with picts.
http://www.bulldogsbike.com/forkseals.htm
Please follow your book but the picts are good to help.
 

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Hi Chad, thanks for the confirmation. On the pics., the forks were removed and disassembled but that was for seal replacement. Is that necessary just for an oil change? Thanks again.

Jeff
 

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HAWK
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NO for a oil change you just remove the drain plug and the top cap. After all the fluid is drained out replace the plug and fill from the top. I would recomend replacing the oring on the top cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Okay so I've been dragging my feet about this project but thanks Jeff for those questions which I'm sure I would have asked eventually.

Here's another question: Does everyone replace the o-rings, or are they snap rings, when they do this??

I think what I'll do is jack up the front enough so the wheel is off the ground then drain the fluid. Then I'll let the jack down slowly and squeeze out the rest of it. Next measure the amount that came out, which will hopefully be around the 10.5 oz mark then jack it back up and refill.

Does this process seem pretty good to the majority??? I've read several different ways to do it and this seems for me to be the best way.

Thoughts????
 

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HAWK
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Sounds about right to me. I have to put in my new Progressive springs before this sumer riding.
 

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Measuring what you get out so ya have a good idea of what to put in sounds like a good way to do it John.

Sorry I don't have any known advice on replacing o-rings or clips though.
I would think it'd be a good idea to do the o-rings atleast.
 

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Okay so I've been dragging my feet about this project but thanks Jeff for those questions which I'm sure I would have asked eventually.

Here's another question: Does everyone replace the o-rings, or are they snap rings, when they do this??

I think what I'll do is jack up the front enough so the wheel is off the ground then drain the fluid. Then I'll let the jack down slowly and squeeze out the rest of it. Next measure the amount that came out, which will hopefully be around the 10.5 oz mark then jack it back up and refill.

Does this process seem pretty good to the majority??? I've read several different ways to do it and this seems for me to be the best way.

Thoughts????

John -

For as often as you'll be in there, I'd replace the orings, snap rings shouldn't need replacing unless one breaks which isn't likely.

Good idea to only put in as much as you get out as all of it will not come out.
I used the amount from the manual as I had mine completely apart so none remained in any nooks or crannys.

There are four weights of fork oil dependant on your weight. I used 15 and weigh 230 and the ride is about right (wish I had progressive springs!).

If your fork seals are questionable, this is the time to repalce them.

Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sounds about right Jon, I think I'll go with the 15 weight too, I am about 215 lb.

Gosh I'm glad you mentioned that about the weight, I had no idea they came in different weights.

Does anyone happen to have the part number for the correct o-ring that needs replaced?? I can get it just wondered if somebody had their service manual handy.

Thanks a bunch!
 

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Sounds about right Jon, I think I'll go with the 15 weight too, I am about 215 lb.

Gosh I'm glad you mentioned that about the weight, I had no idea they came in different weights.

Does anyone happen to have the part number for the correct o-ring that needs replaced?? I can get it just wondered if somebody had their service manual handy.

Thanks a bunch!
John -

Kaw (or RA) p/n 92055-1309, RA has them for $ 2.12 each.
You can get fork oil there too.
I got seals, orings, and oil fro mine there when I did it.

Jon
 
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