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Discussion Starter #1
I'm embarrassed to ask this question, but since Orleans isn't singing, I figured I'd ask some humans. I needed to replace the throttle cables on her, and bought replacements from Ron Ayers. The online fiche just has a diagram and listing for "cables," and says "this one's an opening one; this one's a closing one." ALAS - Clymer's and every other manual I've read describes throttle cables and "push" and "pull." I'm assuming the only difference in them is the length of the cable? Anyway, I've installed them - assuming the push closed, the pull opened - and I've got no spring-back in the throttle. My hands are freezing, so I thought I'd shoot a post to the group before I go do anything rash, but are my assumptions about push/close, pull/open correct? And if so, can someone give me a suggestion as to what I'm doing wrong? I'm pretty sure I've got the slack out of the cables, although seeing back to the push cable is hard (flashlight battery is cold and dying...it needs a break, too). :confused:
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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Yeppers, pull = open, push = close.

When I would have troubles like that, I would usually have something binding in the handlebar throttle housing.
Try detaching just one of them (where ever it is easiest to do it from) to figure out which cable is causing the trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Hyper, I'll try that...gotta be something deceptively simple, but there comes a point when it's hard to reason it out. "The entire assembly must be broken - sell the bike!"
 

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Cindy -

Have had the same problem with mine, as a matter of fact just today. Like Hyper said, play around with the adjustment. You can remove the open cable pretty easily from the carb.

See if it springs back then. If so, you need to watch the adjustment of the two hex nuts that hold the cable to the carb linkage. Try moving it back and forth a little by loosening one and tightening the other.

If it still sticks with the open cable off, its the close cable. Hard to remove this one, but you can still change the adjustment and see if that frres it up.

Let us know.

Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Any idea, Jon, why your cables would suddenly start acting up? Just wondering (I know mine's an adjustment issue). I'll fiddle around with them this evening - it is nice to have new cables (the old ones had two washers inserted between the right-hand control piece and the cable bracket, just to give create "more room" for adjustment... :BLAM: )
 

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Cindy,

To help you sort them out, the open cable is the one with the little cross bar on it that goes into the throttle grip on the handle bar. The close cable is the one that fits in the slot in the little cross bar. If you look at at the micro fiche, you can see what I am talking about. The open cable goes on the forward facing hole in the throttle grip on the handle bars and the close of course goes in the rear hole. On the carb, the open cable goes on the bottom connection on the carb and is the most accessable. The close cable goes in the top mount and its linkage is covered up by the open part of the throttle mechanism. It can be tricky to put in but it can be done with patience. I just had my apart and had to re route my cables as I had done it incorrectly when I put the bike back together. According to the Kaw manual, the cables run through the bracket above the radiator cap and then pass on the outside of the radiator hose and frame then down past the back of the right ear and over the spark plug and into the carbs.
Hope this helps some.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I disconnected the pull cable, and it was still binding. But I could hear it catching up on the mechanism up at the throttle. So I went to loosen that and check how the cables are seated, and - lo and behold - when the RH control piece is not properly seated on the bars (there's a small tab under the top half of the shell that sits in a tiny hole on the bars), I've got plenty of spring in the throttle. As soon as I seat the shell - binding. Now that presents just a small problem, since it'll be a drag to try to hold the throttle open and try to keep it on the bike at the same time - no cramp-busters for that on eBay!

I'm heading back out there....more anon.
 

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If you can, disconnect the linkage from the twist grip and pull the cable as far as you can, then reconnect it to the grip and see what happens. The little tab on the top shell on mine broke off in the hole some time in the dim distant past so I haven't run into that problem. It may be that the lead end on the cable is rubbing against the shells once they are tightened. You may want to check the clearance there and maybe file them down if they are the cause of the binding.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It looks like the push cable is binding. I opened the shell, and then yanked on that cable every which way to see if it would cinch down against the unit, but it seems too long. When I open the throttle, that cable is popping up and then getting hung up in the shell. Someone want to check me on Ayers? 0053 is the push, 0052 is the pull?
 

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It looks like the push cable is binding. I opened the shell, and then yanked on that cable every which way to see if it would cinch down against the unit, but it seems too long. When I open the throttle, that cable is popping up and then getting hung up in the shell. Someone want to check me on Ayers? 0053 is the push, 0052 is the pull?
Pull cable should be the shorter one and has the cable guide on it (piece that holds the cables up under the throttle grip).

Mine had a problem as I had the carbs off today (every Saturday lately). When I put them back on, I had twisted the two cables, so I had to take off the pull cable from the carb so I could untwist it :doh:

Going to re-sync them tomorrow.

Still have problem at WOT when it passes 5k rpm. Breaks up very bad and have to back off the throttle to get it smooth again. I can rev it to 6K and cruise there, as long as I don't go WOT. Very frustrating.

Jon
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks, Jon. Sorry to hear about your WOT issues. Think it may be the jet?

I pulled everything off and started poking at the bracket itself on the carbs, and then noticed - in my one fleeting moment of calm - that the spring looks to be shot, or just put on wrong (I didn't touch that when I had the carbs off previously, so I'm claiming innocence!). It doesn't even bear a faint resemblance to the spring on my working bike. I do believe this means pulling the carbs again. Geez louise, I was feeling good about just having to re-do once...hard to imagine having to do that every Saturday!

Hey, Hyper - I think we need a logo for the Weekend Carb Loading Club! :pepper:
 

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Thanks, Jon. Sorry to hear about your WOT issues. Think it may be the jet?

I pulled everything off and started poking at the bracket itself on the carbs, and then noticed - in my one fleeting moment of calm - that the spring looks to be shot, or just put on wrong (I didn't touch that when I had the carbs off previously, so I'm claiming innocence!). It doesn't even bear a faint resemblance to the spring on my working bike. I do believe this means pulling the carbs again. Geez louise, I was feeling good about just having to re-do once...hard to imagine having to do that every Saturday!

Hey, Hyper - I think we need a logo for the Weekend Carb Loading Club! :pepper:
Cindy -

I can have the carbs out in less then 15 minutes now from walking in the garage to off the bike. I never take the cables off. I can get them back on in about 20 minutes as I usually have to fiddle around lining them up.

But inside of an hour, I can pull the carbs, change the jets, and be off for a test drive. Pretty sad, no?

Anyway, I think I found my problem. Think I am way too big on the main jet. Check out this article(http://www.duncanracing.com/techfaq/Tech_keihin-carburetion-jetting.phtml, it's on a snowmobile, but doesn't matter principals are the same. Note what it says about really rich main jet performance, that's what I am experiencing.

Jon
 

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The "push" cable really doesn't push anyhting, it gets pushed and it just assures a closed throttle when you twist the hand grip closed. You could run without it but if the return spring on the throttle mechanism broke or bound up, you would be without that failsafe and may have a stuck open throttle situation. With the throttle closed, if you pull on the close cable, nothing will happen because the throttle is already in the closed position. When you twist the throttle open, you pull the open cable and the other cable is pushed by the throttle linkage at the carb and goes slack. When the throttle is closed, it now pulls the close cable while the open cable is pushed to the closed position.
A check on the Ayers website has the part numbers as 54012-1242 as the open cable and 54012-1243 as the close cable.
Have you checked the overall routing of the cables? If they are misrouted or have a sharp bend somewhere, that may contribute to the binding problem.
Is the throttle mechanism binding in travel? That could contribute as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi, Sky Rider - I did check the cable routing. I originally hadn't run the cables right, either, but they're in the right place now (through the bracket up by the radiator cap, and then past the wire on the front cyl). I think what's happening is the spring is sprung, and so the mechanism isn't going all the way back to a fully closed position. Hence, I open the throttle, and even pushing it "closed" leaves all the cables looking "slack" - which they are. I've got a Haynes carb book that I'll review this evening. With luck, I can reattach the one end to wherever it's supposed to go; without, I'll be competing with (and losing to) Jon for The Fastest Carb Pull on the East Coast!
 
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