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Discussion Starter #1
I finally got the carbs back in to the '86 VN750 and thought everything was sweet, but I notice I only seem to be able to twist the throttle about a quarter open and then it comes up against the throttle stop - I've checked it, and that's where it's winding up, against the throttle stop. Is this right? I would think I'd be able to twist it wide open...

The throttle cable is clear all the way from the throttle to the carb, with no binding or anything else getting in the way, and it looks like the throttle stop is doing it's job...but is the travel of the throttle supposed to be so short?

Would this affect starting the bike? Could it be hooked up the wrong way?
 

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I finally got the carbs back in to the '86 VN750 and thought everything was sweet, but I notice I only seem to be able to twist the throttle about a quarter open and then it comes up against the throttle stop - I've checked it, and that's where it's winding up, against the throttle stop. Is this right? I would think I'd be able to twist it wide open...

The throttle cable is clear all the way from the throttle to the carb, with no binding or anything else getting in the way, and it looks like the throttle stop is doing it's job...but is the travel of the throttle supposed to be so short?

Would this affect starting the bike? Could it be hooked up the wrong way?
You should be able to rotate the grip about 3/4 of a full turn before you hit the stop. We don't know if you hooked them up wrong. If the cables are hooked up right try this. Loosen the lock nut on both cables. Back off both barrel nuts until each cable is slack. Sitting on the bike the decelerator cable is closest to your right knee. The throttle grip should have a lot of play in it. Tighten the barrel nut on the decelerator cable until all the play is gone except for an 1/8 inch. Now open the grip fully until the throttle stop is hit. Keep the grip open ( against the stop ) and tighten the barrel nut on the accelerator cable until it's fairly tight. The grip should now snap back when released from open and have only an 1/8 inch play in the grip. You should have the right amount of travel if the cables are hooked up right. If the grip doesn't snap back you have to make minor adjustments on the accelerator cable by turning the barrel nut in or out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Problem Solved, actually...I had to take the bleeding carbs out again, but the problem was a sticky butterfly shaft.

The two long arms in the middle of the carbs that pull down on the butterfly armature kept sliding out from their little pins...I noticed there was a little hole drilled through the pins they fit on, where the PO must have pulled out the tiny cotter pins when he took the carb apart the last time and didn't replace them, and I didn't notice it when I rebuilt them...I fashioned a stay-pin out of some wire and slid it through each hole, bent them up and over - problem solved.

What the little post was doing was somehow catching on the arms themselves. This kind of locked the butterflys in the Open position, which explains why they only wanted to roll open a quarter of the way, and why I almost got my face blasted off through the carb when I put starter fluid in it: The fluid ignited in the piston, the butterflies were in the Open position, and the exhaust cycle blew it out the throat of the carb. Not Recommended.

So now I get the Joy of putting them back in...it's true, It Is A Btch! Especially those effin upper manifolds...its gotta be done, but I am not looking forward to it. Well, I *am, but I'm not...Biiiig PITA!

But thanks for the help! :smiley_th

John
 

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Glad your problem is solved.
 
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