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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I have looked at all the pics, links, and done the reading, but I want to make sure I am drilling the right thing out to get to the screws I need to. In the pics, they are located right next to the vacuum lines correct? And both carbs are the same? Also, when I marbeled, do I need to remove and plug the small vacuum line to the air box as well, or just the lines to the reeds? I'm thinking for me the stupid question is the one I fail to ask! Thanks!!!!
 

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They ship from the factory sealed with a lead plug so it has to be removed and drilling is a definite option.

Yes, location is correct as shown on photo's above.

Jon
 

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Use a sharp dental pick instead of a drill, the lead is very soft and you can poke the pick right through and pop it out. If you screw up with the drill bit,,, good luck.
 

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Giggity!
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Damb, no kidding. they come sealed? That seem's so odd. Well, it shows I've never had a new bike. Just being careful & thought thew photo's would help. I'd still be a little leary of drillingthem though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for the input, and YES, the pics are great! Those are the ones I was looking at! May try to get this done tonight. Still have the backfire issue, so I am hoping the carb adjustment will help. Thanks again!
 

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Damb, no kidding. they come sealed? That seem's so odd. Well, it shows I've never had a new bike. Just being careful & thought thew photo's would help. I'd still be a little leary of drillingthem though.
It's for emissions control. The screws are factory set at 1 5/8ths turns out - sort of "optimal" fuel/air mix both for riding and for reducing emissions. But "optimal" has a pretty broad definition, ergo - we're all getting the lead out. :hitanykey
 

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Any ideas for getting the screws out when there seized in place?

Ive been soaking them for days now in WD-40, but the screwdriver is still starting to chew the little bugger!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, I got the lead out! These caps are thick, about 1/8". Do not try to just poke or punch something through them, you will push them into the screws, and/or break the housing of the carb. I put a very small ball end dremel bit in, bored a very small hole in each cap, screwed a sheetrock screw very lightly into the hole, and gave it a little tug with the channel locks! Worked great, took about 5 minutes total! I turned the screws out 1/2 turn each, bike runs great, idles better, (even when cold w/o choke) and no more popping out the exhaust! Bucky, try either using a product called Deep Creep, or Free All. Both of these work great. WD-40 just doesn't penetrate that well. I work on old cars (30's era) and Free All gets those rusted bolts out with ease!
 

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Will have to have a look around the auto parts stores, but i dont think they sell those products over here, ive been in the motor trade for quite a few years now and ive never seen anything, must be something out there though ;)

But cheers for the advice!!
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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Will have to have a look around the auto parts stores, but i dont think they sell those products over here,
Deep Creep is from the makers of Seafoam, which isn't on your side of the pond either. :doh:
And the Free All site only seems to list dealers for the US too.
Wonder if it's due to some kind of non eco-friendly thing or something like that??



Like ya said, there's gotta be some other similar product for you to use in your neck of the world.
 

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Cheers hyper! i'll just have to percivere.....

Im having no luck, ive tried everything in the book now, heat, penetrating fluid, hot water, all to no avail :(

I really need to be able to adjust them as the bike runs like s#*t at the minute.

Other than buying some carbs with loose screws in 'em, anymore suggestions guys? i could really use your help!!
 

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Do you have the carbs off the bike at the moment, or are you still working on getting to the screws with the carbs mounted? If you can pull 'em, a couple of things you might try:
More penetrating fluid (do you have PB Blaster over there?) and lightly (LIGHTLY) tap where the screw threads are in the housing. Sometimes the tapping will get the crud to break loose, and then you're good to go.
Failing that, if it were me (but perhaps no one else), I'd get a drill, tiny drill bit, and see if the screws will back out of the housing with the drill set on reverse and low speed (high torque). BE CAREFUL, though, 'cause as folks have noted elsewhere in this thread, the housing and screws are all very, very soft.
 

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The carbs are in, but its a piece of piss to get them out again.

Ive tried the shock treatment on them, not much use really, and i cant explain just how much penetrating fluid ive put on them (tins of the stuff, the carbs were sat in a bowl full of the stuff for the whole time i was chopping the bike!!), I dont know what a PB blaster is? and i dont fancy chancing my luck drilling them to be honest, ive got a habbit of snapping bits in the holes ;)
 

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Hmmm. Well, having pulled the carbs a few times, I have to agree with you. But you'd have a little more leverage for "gentle tapping" if the carbs were off the bike. You still have your airbox? Over the long haul, the easiest thing to do is to pull the wiring harness, pull the airbox, and then pull the carbs. Still not pleasant, but manageable, and it'll give you access to surface area behind/around teh screws.

The drilling idea was a long shot - ya know, "get a bigger hammer when all else fails." :D
 

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Air box is gone. will be pulling the carbs again this week anywasys, so im just gonna try again, if not, im chucking the damn thing off the nearest cliff!
 
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