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MANIC MECHANIC
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i am thinking of trying the cycle electric ce-602 r/r it is a non shunting type. does anyone have any thoughts or expierence on this.
 

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Abso-frickin'-lutely! The specs say it's rated at 45A and this is exactly the type of series regulator we've been looking for. I agree with the writeup here:

CE-602 Regulating Series Rectifier

that is will preserve the stator by reducing the heat produced. Heat in the stator is a function of current through the windings and on the stock VN750, current is a function of RPMs; this R/R will change that to being a function of current load in the bike, which is often less than the max that the stator can produce.

Rock on!
 

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This should solve 99% of all of the Stator/ Regulator problems.


I was on the CE site yesterday and saw this and meant to ask if anyone else had seen it or tried it; Now you need to find someone to wind you a stator with more output and you can run all the lights you want; maybe even A/C;;;;;;

Don't understand why this has not been tried already; most automotive alternators have the regulator and rectifier built in and just one wire (+) going to the battery.
 

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looks sound to me,what about price?
 

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Sparky!!!
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This won't work... the Dyna uses a single phase stator... (2 stator leads)... on the Cycle eletrics page for the 600 series, none of those models will work... I have searched every model listed on that page and all are single phase stators. And all the VR's listed have the rectifier built into the VR

OK every HD model that I could find a diagram for uses a single phase stator. and these won't work with our bike. Pre 78's might be able to work since I couldn't find info on them.

I am not sure what you guys are trying to do, If you guys were fallowing my train of thought to find a 2 piece set up so you could replace just the VR when it fails, or if you are trying for a R/R set up... if you are looking for a beefy R/R, send Tim Parrot an email, he has one in stock for 90 bucks (includes shipping) that is rated at (iirc) 80 amps. its not a direct bolt on part, but will work with a home made mounting bracket.
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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Discussion Starter #6
04-05 dyna used three phase you have to use the ce-602 click on the write up on darrel's post
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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Discussion Starter #7
looks sound to me,what about price?
slightly prohibitive 175-200 range but if it handles current without as much heat and doesent fry stators seems an ok price
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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Discussion Starter #9
i was going to splice in the brown and red and then run straight to the battery to charge
 

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Several models of harleys used a 3phase permanent magnet systems. I just recently found a LOT of talk about this same issue on other bikes where the R/R is the weak link. The general conclusion is the best upgrade is the Shindengen FH012AA MOSFET "series" style r/r that's used all over the place on newer bikes/atvs/watercraft. It handles up to 50 amps and puts out ~14 at all rpms including idle. The main thread people have been referring to from all manner of forums (from Triumphs to honda chops) is here:
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

They seem to be used on quite a few places. A few specific bikes and yamaha part numbers are mentioned in that thread, but they have become so popular it can be hard to find them now. The best place I have found bike specific kits and a universal option is here:

http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen%20FH012AA%20Regulator%20upgrade%20kit.htm

$119 for the kit including connectors.

I'm just trying to decide between the CE unit and this one.
 

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Shindengen FH012AA MOSFET
Better than the thyristor regulators, but still a shunt regulator.

i was going to splice in the brown and red and then run straight to the battery to charge
The red that goes to the ignition coils? Don't.

just be sure to splice the brown wire to white.
Don't. You will have ignition always on.


Just leave the brown wire unconnected, but make sure it does not make contact with anything.
 

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The diagram here shows that the FETs are controlled by a single output from the control unit. The only way to stop the output voltage going too high is to switch on the FETs to divert current from one leg of the stator to another.

The diagram could be a simplification, but I need more proof before I believe it is a series regulator.
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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Discussion Starter #14
i meant white
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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Discussion Starter #15
it doesent need the brown wire if thats the case a rubber cap and heat shrink it is
 

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You may be correct. My understanding was that the diagram was an oversimplification. But when I looked at the manu. site table of r/r's, they list it as a FET as opposed to shunt or series like their others. Without knowing details it's hard to know. Everything I have seen so far though lends me to believe that it is a series based device, but I am not certain.
 

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Sparky!!!
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Quote:
just be sure to splice the brown wire to white.
Don't. You will have ignition always on.


Just leave the brown wire unconnected, but make sure it does not make contact with anything.
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You have to plug the brown in, because brown still needs to also feed other things inside the JB and if you leave it out, the dash lights, and warning switches won't work... tried that rout already. to splice the brown wire to white, use a relay... that way it is only activated when the ignition is on.
 

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You have to plug the brown in, because brown still needs to also feed other things inside the JB and if you leave it out, the dash lights, and warning switches won't work... tried that rout already. to splice the brown wire to white, use a relay... that way it is only activated when the ignition is on.
The brown wire gets it's power from the white wire through the ignition switch. The r/r is outputting nothing to the brown wire, just using it to sense the voltage.

But let's not argue about this, just try first leaving the brown wire unconnected (it is simpler), and if that does not work then put in a relay..
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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Discussion Starter #20
if the shindengen is a non shunting type it is definatley a better price than the cycle electric
 
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