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Discussion Starter #1
I have decided to use "The Works" toilet cleaner the clear the rust out of my tank. Here are the basic instructions I got from using Search VN750.com. If anyone has any additional pointers let me know.
1. Drain gas from tank and allow to air dry for 24hrs
2. Use 2 cups of drywall screws and shake around to knock of first layer of rust
3. Remove Petcock and plug hole
4. Pour entire bottle of The Works into tank
5. Swish around periodically and soak for 15min
6. Rinse tanks with half a tank of warm water twice
7. Rinse tank with half a tank of warm water plus baking soda twice
8. Blow out tank with compressed air
9. use 1/2 quart of Acetone (im going to use alcohol) to get rid of excess water
10. Blow out tank with compressed air to get access acetone/alcohol out of tank
11. Pour 1 cup of Marvels Mystery Oil and swish around and let set for 24hrs to preven rust action
12. Rinse access marvels mystery oil with a little bit of fuel and then put tank back together put back on bike and fill it up with gas.




Any additional suggestions will be great! I am gathering the supplies today and I will do this tomorrow afternoon. Thanks everybody!
 

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Sparky!!!
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use the acetone rather than alcohol... the acetone evaporates faster and is a better solvent than alcohol. As for the screws.. ditch them in favor of some ball bearings or bb's (not sure if bb's would be heavy enough though... maybe substitute bb's for #6 or bigger bird shot).

Final step is add fuel and seafoam.. do not forget the seafoam it helps burn out the rest of the conaminates that might be left in the tank, and helps clean out the rest of the fuel system.
 

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by the time you spend all the money on the other stuff you could have bought the 40 dollar cycle kit and do it the right way in my own opinion.
 

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You don't have to let the tank air dry. Rinse it out well with water after removing the gas and get started.

To keep from getting acid in the cap, I removed that too. You want The Works to contact the entire inside of the tank, including the top.

I don't think you need that many drywall screws. A handfull of 1/4" metal nuts worked fine, and I had some pretty heavy rust. Count the number of screws or nuts you use to be sure you get them all out. Tying the nuts in a piece of cloth makes removal easier. The acid in The Works does a very good job on rust just by itself.

You don't have to let it sit for 15 minutes between swishes, but you can.

I used acetone and in the process of getting it out of the tank spilled some on the tank. Poof! No paint. So I do not recommend acetone. If you thoroughly rinse the tank with water, no additional rinsing is needed to remove The Works. I would not use baking soda as the particles are hard to remove completely and could be a problem if they reach the carb. Put the Marvel oil in immediately after rinseing and blowing out with compressed air. Flash rust will start almost immediately, and before you can dry the tank (at least in Louisiana humidity). Does Marvel Mystery Oil displace water? I'm not familiar with it. If it doesn't, use WD-40 instead.

One of the tanks I treated had rust that developed under the "professionally" applied Kreem tank liner. So based on that limited experience, I'm not a fan of tank liners. There really is no need for liners unless there are pin holes in the tank. Keeping the tank full to minimize condensation and using Sea Foam occasionally should greatly reduce the chances of more rust forming.
 

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MANIC MECHANIC
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stay away from the kbs and kreem kits both are junk
 

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stay away from the kbs and kreem kits both are junk
I have not used those kits (used other purple stuff in my fathers radiator shop) I just found them in a google search. Why do you say they are junk? what issues have you had with them?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What do I use to seal the holes?...also I removed the fuel level sensor, am I right for doing that? and I bought gumout instead of seafoam...which one is better or are the equally the same? I am pretty sure i have a stuck float so I was going to run the gumout through after I got the tank cleaned out!
 

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Seal the holes with good quality duct tape. Yes, the fuel level sensor needs to come out too. I made some cover plates for the sensor and petcock holes from an aluminum sign. Used duct tape over them as a gasket and had no leaks at all. But tape alone will probably be sufficient to seal them. Lots of folks have done it that way. Just have a water hose handy to rinse off any spills. It will take a while for The Works to harm the paint, so as long as you get it off fairly soon there shouldn't be any damage.

The acetone ate through the duct tape over the cap hole and that's how I messed up the paint.

Gumout and Sea Foam are entirely different formulations. Sea Foam is slower acting and will not harm plastic or rubber parts in the carb. Gumout spray is probably OK as long as you don't soak the carbs in it. You can fill the carbs with straight Sea Foam and leave it for a month and it won't hurt the carb. Not so with Gumout. Some times, a bit of crud can hang the float up. Tapping on it with a screwdriver handle sometimes frees it up.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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I think you can seal all the fuel tank openings with GOOD duct tape. DO NOT use cheap stuff.

You are right to remove fuel level sensor float, filler cap and petcock. You don`t want anything left attached to the tank, except the duct tape, while you are treating it.

I read somewhere that you should buy a contractor box of 100 nuts for machine screws to rattle around inside the tank. This is much cheaper than plastic blister packs with only 8 or 10 in each package. I`m not sure which size you need, so measure the nuts OD for sizes #6, #8 and #10 screws. You want the outside diameter of the nuts to be no more than 1/4 inch in order to get into the narrowest places possible. Thread them all together on a longish strong thread or light string to make retieval easier later, before inserting into tank.

NOTE: You don`t want nuts for 1/4" bolts, you want nuts with a 1/4" OUTSIDE DIAMETER.
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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I think you can seal all the fuel tank openings with GOOD duct tape. DO NOT use cheap stuff.
Edit: fc has a good idea to reinforce the petcock and fuel sensor opening with a back-up plate if possible.

You are right to remove fuel level sensor float, filler cap and petcock. You don`t want anything left attached to the tank, except the duct tape, while you are treating it.

I read somewhere that you should buy a contractor box of 100 nuts for machine screws to rattle around inside the tank. This is much cheaper than plastic blister packs with only 8 or 10 in each package. I`m not sure which size you need, so measure the nuts OD for sizes #6, #8 and #10 screws. You want the outside diameter of the nuts to be no more than 1/4 inch in order to get into the narrowest places possible. Thread them all together on a longish strong thread or light string to make retieval easier later, before inserting into tank.

NOTE: You don`t want nuts for 1/4" bolts, you want nuts with a 1/4" OUTSIDE DIAMETER.

EDIT: OK, I measured and #6 hexagonal machine screw nuts are 1/4" diameter, square nuts are 5/16". Either should be fine for this purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I bought Gumout that is a gas addative its not a spray its just in a bottle that you mix with the Gas. So do I need to go with the seafoam mixed into the gas to try to flush my carb?
 

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Glenn C.
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I used acetone and in the process of getting it out of the tank spilled some on the tank. Poof! No paint. So I do not recommend acetone.

Are you serious?? I used acetone on my truck when i was putting on my rollon bed liner, the acetone didn't harm the paint at all. In fact, Herculiner, the roll-in bedliner similar to Rhinoliner, said in its instructions to clean clean the surface with acetone and let dry, and if any herculiner spills or gets on an area you dont want, use acetone to remove it. It works just fine, it never hurt the pain on my truck.
 

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I could have sworn it was acetone. That's what the can said. If I had a digital camera I could send you pics of my crummy rattle can cover job. The paint was literally gone in seconds where the stuff got on it.
 

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I have not used those kits (used other purple stuff in my fathers radiator shop) I just found them in a google search. Why do you say they are junk? what issues have you had with them?
Kreem I have not used but have read on other forums that it peels off in time. kbs turned into grey goop in my tank after 3 years I cleaned it out of my petcock and both carbs it looked like grey slime.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So guess what! I went to walmart today and found The Works, and when I went to check out they would not sell it to me. It has been discontinued for some reason and walmart is no longer able to sell it. I cannot find it anywhere I have been all over town. So I bought mauratic acid from Lowes. Any pointers or do I use it the same as The Works? Do I need to dilute it?
 

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That's weird. If they won't let you buy it, why have it on the shelf?

Many folks use muriatic acid full strength. Be careful with it; wear old clothes and eye protection. Have a garden hose handy to wash off spills.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The customer service lady said it was suppose to be taken off the shelf, she made another employee go check to make sure it was all taken off the shelf.
 

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ok this aint gonna fix your tank but is a lot of fun. take a 20 oz. pop bottle, roll up about 20 aluminum foil balls about the size of bottle hole a little smaller, add 1/4 pop bottle the works bowl cleaner, cap tightly quickly, a couple quick shakes and throw it out in the middle of the yard! stay back though! you can you tube it too see the outcome too!
 
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