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Concert connoisseur
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still had probs uploading pics (dang photobucket) I'll try again soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #43
okay, I'm done. I took a lot of pics and will go in more detail tomorrow or so but wow it is it dirty in there. before I took it apart I could move it a little and it just sounded crusty and scratchy, after a thorough cleaning, lube and reaasembly it is quiet and barely moves like I think it is supposed to. without the bushing in it it will only move about an inch to an inch and a quarter, the bushing just takes the shock out of heavy acceleration and quick stops, after cleaning it gets full contact with the bushing. I would say this part of it is probably as if not more important than lubing the gear portion of it. the hardest part of the whole procedure was the cleanup, taking it apart and reassembly was pretty easy once the snap ring is out!
You can email me the photos and I'll post them in my gallery here then tie them to the procedure, if you want. Sounds like you nailed the procedure. If you can make a few notes on what is entailed that would be super.

And Dave, congrats on getting your splines lubed and getting the bike up on the board! :) I know it ain't easy...
 

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ok finally, here is the addendum. I took a lot of pics although this part is pretty simple.
and Fergy feel free to pull the pics out of this post to add to your gallery or I can email them to you if you want.

here is the rear wheel and the parts you will dissassemble.


I used two jeweller's screwdrivers to get the snapring out, I'm sure there is a better tool but these worked and its all I had.




this is the large rubber damper inside the wheel, I just wiped it clean with a rag as I did not want to use chemicals on it!


here is the damper out, (Note: The dora toy in not used in this process)


here are all the parts you will want to use the honda moly 60 on, I tried to pinpoint them with the screwdriver so you can see and used a qtip to apply the lube.






I used gas to clean up the parts first since I was chang the tire anyways but kept it away from the rubber bushing. I'm sure brake cleaner would have worked but gas was cheaper. before I did this it would wiggle in their a bit but sounded very scratchy and grindy. afterwards it was all tight and smooth with no sound or wiggle at all. not sure how we overlooked this part of the procedure but I reccomend doing it as it is dirty inside that wheel and I'm sure it would wear the wheel out.
Thanks for the first half Fergy, heres the rest!!!!!!
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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Good job wib. Thanks for the pics and write-up to complete the spline lube as it should be done. :smiley_th
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Great job Wib! I added a link to your above post with the added steps in it to the spot it belongs to in the procedure on page 1. I had initially planned to add your steps and photos to the procedure, but it dawned on me that there is a 10 photo limit to a post (ran into that when posting the procedure here which is why it's broken up in three posts) and I knew that if I added some of your photos to reach the 10 photo limit, I'd have to add the rest in a new post, which would have been here on page 4 or even page 5, and didn't want to break it up like that, so I chose to just link to your post. Hopefully it won't be too confusing to a newbie. I also changed the order of torquing the 4 nuts on the final drive housing to before you put the wheel back on, per Dave's suggestion. Thanks to both of you for your insight!
 

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Thats why we are all here! well to help and get help!
 

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Good write-up on cleaning and lubing the rear wheel damper assembly. Wish I had seen this before I did my last spline lube a few weeks ago. Although it is probably not critical to do, I believe in a clean well lubed machine.
Although I have torqued the final drive mounting bolts before mounting the wheel because it is easier to do and that is the method in the FSM, Clymers says to only tighten the 4 nuts finger tight and then torque to spec after the axel is installed. Why? Are they concerned about a possible alignment problem?
 

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Good write-up on cleaning and lubing the rear wheel damper assembly. Wish I had seen this before I did my last spline lube a few weeks ago. Although it is probably not critical to do, I believe in a clean well lubed machine.
Although I have torqued the final drive mounting bolts before mounting the wheel because it is easier to do and that is the method in the FSM, Clymers says to only tighten the 4 nuts finger tight and then torque to spec after the axel is installed. Why? Are they concerned about a possible alignment problem?
it is probably as critical, the part you need to lube is constantly rotating with every shift, down shift, braking and takeoff and is more susceptible (SP) to dirt, grime and a ton of brake dust. it takes what, about 15 minutes to get the wheel off especially if you just did it, another half an hour to disassemble the wheel clean it up and lube it and another 15 to get it back on. it would be a great rainy day off project that would be well worth it!
Just sayin!
 

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Just did this last night. I can't tell you how much I appreciate this site. Everything went very smooth. I can validate that these splines are classically under lubed. My spline had very little lubrication on it, but fortunately it was still in perfect condition since it has only been ridden for 2,700 miles. I was very happy to be able to do the work myself. I had a heck of a time getting the wheel back on and meshed with the final drive. A couple of things that helped, were to put the bike in gear so the final drive wouldn't spin, and also to put the axle in from the left side temporarily so that I could get the wheel on and lined up much easier. You can't put the axle on from the right side cuz you don't have enough room yet to get the spacer in place. I suppose you could put the axle in without the spacer, but then there's more chance of forgetting it.

I had it apart and back together in a little under 4 hours, with a trip to the hardware store for O rings and a cotter pin.

THANKS FOR THE WRITE UP!
 

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Great Photos & Write Up, just about explains it all. THANKS! Now i know what needs to be done!
 

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Roach made a video of his spline lube while the engine was out, so he could pull the driveshaft and female spline coupling out the front of the swingarm. Gives those of us who haven`t gotten that deep into wrenching on the bike a better idea of how it works.

I figure adding a link to fergy`s thread will get it the notice it deserves. :smiley_th
http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19890
 

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Steve
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Thanks for the gret pics. I did mine in about 2 hours taking it slowly. Mine had not been done in 17000 kms as far as I can make out, and was nealry dry of grease, but with some white moly still on the spline. Teeth were still good, I will do this every 10,000 kms from now on.
 

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ADDED 4-1-2011:

These are similar to the ones I used, even look a little narrower, and since they apparently changed the design of my Jensen pair, they might not fit into the coupling with the new design. These Klein 73242's can be ordered from here for about $17 plus shipping, but I've found the same pliers for less elsewhere so you might do a google search for "Klein 73242 and see what they're going for!
Just did a search on the "klein 73242" snap ring pliers and found many suppliers. Two were selling for $10.99 US.
HNS Tools ships in the US by USPS for $3.29. Canada and Mexico First class mail USPS for $5.50 US.
Either way less than $17 delivered. :)
http://www.hnstools.com/pliers/retaining-ring-pliers/73242/
 

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Chasin' the blacktop
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Did the spline lube today. After hearing that so many Vulcans shipped with dry splines I was happy to see that mine had been greased but it was definatly time to regrease the spline with 9400 miles on the bike. It's really not that hard to do and took about 2 1/2 hours with a few beers as I worked. Having a friend hold the bike steady when raising it that high off the ground was helpful but generally a one person job. Don't tighten the axle nut untill you've got the rear brake rotated with the lower support rod on it's stud on the brake cover.
 

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romeobravo172
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Easy Peasy Japanizy!!! Good goin!!!
 

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Did the spline lube today. After hearing that so many Vulcans shipped with dry splines I was happy to see that mine had been greased but it was definatly time to regrease the spline with 9400 miles on the bike. It's really not that hard to do and took about 2 1/2 hours with a few beers as I worked. Having a friend hold the bike steady when raising it that high off the ground was helpful but generally a one person job. Don't tighten the axle nut untill you've got the rear brake rotated with the lower support rod on it's stud on the brake cover.
I was just looking in the gallery for somethng else when I ran across this little tip for centering the rear brake.
FoolAmI has introduced the topic for me, so here is the link:

To prevent weak rear brakes
http://www.vn750.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=3645&cat=503
 

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Prowling Tiger
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I haven't seen this mentioned anywhere, but I believe it would be possible to do this procedure w/o removing rear tire. My thoughts in doing go like this:

* Remove shaft-side shock
* Remove cotter pin & castle nut
* Remove the 4 bolts holding cover to shaft cover
* Tap axle in far enough to clear cover

Cover should come off at this point allowing access to everything needed on that side of the hub. The wheel is held up by shock on other side. To me, this would make the lube job much simpler.

Please correct me if any of this is wrong. I get a lot of thinking time at work and this was an idea I had been thinking about last night.

Thanks
 

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Sounds like it should, I can't try part of it when I put mine back on. .... I just need the stator, arrgh ahhh ahhhhhh!
 
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