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Waterman
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This Site is Awsome, just lubed spline

I want to thank everyone on this forum for the outstanding job of suppling so much valuable info. I purchased an 05 750 last July with only 5k miles. The bike is mint and I love riding it. It gives me a break from riding my Goldwing. I waited untill changing tires to check the drive shaft spline. After reading this forum I was not suprised to find a dry spline. I cleaned it up and it looks to be ok. If it wasn't for the great people on this site sharing info I am sure I would have met with disaster some day down the road. Just wanted to say THANKS and I am learning by the day. I look forward to adding my 2 cents someday. I love doing all my own maint. on all 3 of my bikes. Keep up the good work.
 

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Welcome!!
 

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(You don't get to see my rusty splines cause when I found them, I cleaned it up and greased them and put it back together so I could squeeze a few more rides out of it while I waited for my replacement parts to arrive.That was before I did this write-up with photos.)
I have attached here some pics of my splines, I would say that these are rusted pretty badly and I would imagine they need changing.

Thanks Fergy for the great tutorial
 

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Premium Member
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4,054 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Wow, those are some nasty looking parts. The coupling looks like it's full of sand. Anyway, I'm glad you were able to get through the procedure. It's always nice to hear the reports!
 

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Clean it up and then decide if it needs replacing. Mine had a lot of rust color on it and was still in good shape.
 

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That's what I did. They look to be about 60% good. Rough estimate based on Fergy's pictures of real bad and good when clean. Since I can't find the part's used and n good shape right now, I'm gonna run em and see if anything turns up, or else i'll look at em again at the end of the season.
Thanks again guys
 

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Fire Axe Man
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61 Posts
Great writeup, I am having a hell of a time trying to find some cheapy external snap ring pliers that will fit in the coupler my 50$ adjustable internal/External are too fat bought another set today all these parts stores have around here are the adjustable type.... they were thinner but still didnt fit to get the snap ring out, even home depot didnt have a set :( gonna try a couple other places tomorrow what brand are yours in the pic I cant make em out or the part number on the handle.
knipex are a bit pricy but they are amazing, thin, strong and available through ebay, snap-on, mac, matco, or any other tool vender, non adjustable can be bought individually or in a set... i have master internal and external set... http://cgi.ebay.com/Knipex-4PC-EXTERNAL-SNAP-RING-PLIERS-/320686206100?pt=Pliers&hash=item4aaa632c94 FYI anyone looking for good/amazing any kind of pliers, wire cutter, look up knipex.... well worth the money... i'm a mechanic and put these tools through hell every day with zero complaints...
 

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Thanks - all done!

Just got a '92 and decided to investigate. Thankfully it looked good but I sure feel much better. The directions were perfect! :smiley_th Now onto the rest of the bike...
 

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278 Posts
Just finished the spline lube. Thankfully, my '89 with roughly 21k still had a good amount of grease. Splines and coupling looked really good. I was soooo relieved. Now I feel even better knowing exactly what's in there and when it was done.

Thanks so much, fergy, for the write-up. Next best thing to you being there.

John
 

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many thanks

many thanks from a non machanically minded person, my bike broke down and unfortunately when i stripped down spline it was bone dry and very rusty with no teeth left on the coupling and final drive (luckerly i found replacements) and useing your procedure and pics im back on road.

so thank you again for taking the time to do this thread

gordon uk
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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7,960 Posts
I have never seen an open tube of Moly60 or felt the grease between my fingers.
What is the consistency of Moly60? Is it comparible to wheel bearing grease?
Or is it much lighter/thinner like Lubriplate Assembly Lube?

In the pictures of the coupling full of the gray moly60 grease it looks "creamier" (for lack of a better word) and thinner than wheelbearing grease to me.
 

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Concert connoisseur
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2,231 Posts
section 9-5 of my kaw manual shows this also being removed and lubing the outer edge of it as well, did you do this in your lube procedure and I overlooked it and is it necessary. the part in the pic is inside the rim being held in by a large snap ring? the part I'm talking about is the round part in the middle with the 7 holes in it. I know when I did mine the first time I did not lube it there!

 

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Discussion Starter #35
Old Hoss, the moly is pretty much the same consistency as the wheel bearing grease, maybe just a little bit lighter or creamier as you put it. :)

wib714, I'm a little confused about what the KAW manual says needs lubed here. The inner splines I do dab a little moly on but it doesn't make any sense to me to lube the outer edge as there is no movement there that I can recall. Maybe I'm just not following the comment? (it has been a couple years since I was in the splines of a 750 now so I might be forgetting something!)
 

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in that pic at about 10 o clock you can see the gap in the split ring, but I could not spin that part so not sure why it would need lubed. I dont have the link to the service manual here handy but on section 9 -5 it shows lubing the outer edge of that part. just wondering the neccessity!
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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in that pic at about 10 o clock you can see the gap in the split ring, but I could not spin that part so not sure why it would need lubed. I dont have the link to the service manual here handy but on section 9 -5 it shows lubing the outer edge of that part. just wondering the neccessity!
There are 4 pieces involved in that assembly;
(1) wheel coupling "basket",
(2) the 7 armed rubber coupling damper,
(3) rear wheel coupling (shown in wibs picture with 7 holes), and
(4) the coupling retainer ring (also shown).

When the rear spline lube is done, this assembly should be dis-assembled, cleaned, inspected, relubed on the inner splines and outer coupler edge where it contacts the wheel/"basket" edge.

The purpose of the multi armed rubber damper is to absorb rotational shock between the engine/driveshaft and the rear wheel when torque is applied to the coupling through accelleration or deceleration. This indicates to me that there is movement between the coupler and the wheel hub/basket area. Without some moly grease between the edge of the coupler and the wheel basket, wear would eventually render both pieces unusable and require their replacement.

in that pic at about 10 o clock you can see the gap in the split ring, but I could not spin that part so not sure why it would need lubed.
Wib and Fergy, with the retaining ring holding the coupling tight against the wheel, you may not be able to turn it with just your fingers. (I don`t know for sure as I have never tried). Try it again without the retaining ring installed and you may find it will rotate a few degrees in either direction until stopped by the rubber damper. The considerable more torque applied by the engine may turn it even farther. This is assuming the bike has not been parked for several years w/o being ridden. According to the Clymer manual, it is possible for the coupling to become corroded to the wheel hub and require the use of a puller to free it before it can be cleaned and lubed to rotate properly again.

A thin smear of grease on the retaining ring will probably make it easier to install, and provides some protection from corrosion as well.

I hope this long winded explanation makes sense to you.:):blah:
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Thanks Gordon for the great explanation and Wib for pointing it out in the first place! Sounds to me like a step needs to be added to the procedure to clean and lightly lube this area for sure. If someone can take the time to shoot some photos of this during their next spline lube, I will be on it like ugly on an ape to get it added to the procedure. Since I no longer own a 750, my hands are tied. Someone send me the photos and I'll add them to the procedure.

Side note: I believe it was Charlie who had this large snap ring come loose and wedge between the hub and wheel when putting things back together after his spline lube and the wheel wouldn't rotate til he figured out what was up. I added the drawing to the spline lube at that time warning folks to watch for this, after Charlies' experience with it. Unfortunately, we didn't figure out it needed to be cleaned and lubed then too. So close, yet so far. No one else to my knowledge has had this happen since.

It shouldn't be very involved or difficult to do this step and it sounds like it really shouldn't have been neglected all this time. It is amazing to me that we as a group are still learning about this bike, after all these years! Without this forum and great group of folks, what would we all have done over the years?:beerchug:
 

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getting ready to lube it and will take some pics while I'm at it, looks like the hardest part will be getting the ring out, I'll take pics of what I used to get it out too. mine wiggles a little bit in there so it should come out with the ring removed.
Thanks hoss on the clarification, my kaw manual doesnt go into that much detail. it just has the pic of it out and what to lube!
 

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okay, I'm done. I took a lot of pics and will go in more detail tomorrow or so but wow it is it dirty in there. before I took it apart I could move it a little and it just sounded crusty and scratchy, after a thorough cleaning, lube and reaasembly it is quiet and barely moves like I think it is supposed to. without the bushing in it it will only move about an inch to an inch and a quarter, the bushing just takes the shock out of heavy acceleration and quick stops, after cleaning it gets full contact with the bushing. I would say this part of it is probably as important, if not more so, than lubing the gear portion of it. The hardest part of the whole procedure was the cleanup, taking it apart and reassembly was pretty easy once the snap ring is out!
 
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