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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, was riding about a week ago, 5th gear, 55mph, very loud grinding noise, pulled the clutch in, shifted down to 4th then back to 5th, released the clutch, grinding again then silence and now power to the wheel. Pulled over, got the bike towed back home, left for a business trip.

I'm back and was doing some research, I can start the bike up, I can clearly shift in to each gear no issue, but no output to wheel. Figured the final drive was shot (it's the one thing on the bike I was afraid of, other than the engine). Followed the Spline Lube procedure to pull the rear wheel off (came off without an issue) then pulled the final drive/gear assm off. For kicks I decided to turn the bike on and see if the shaft turned. Fired the bike, put it in first, removed the clutch and it turned! Turned at a constant speed, accelerating does nothing. Shifted in to 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, all turns at the same speed. Reattached the final drive/gear assembly, the teeth on the inside which mest with the wheel turn, again at the same speed regardless of the RPM.

So, I'm fairly certain it's not the final drive, but now fear it's either in the transmission or possibly the clutch? Has anyone experience this before or have any idea where/what I should try next?
 

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pull the clutch cover off the other side and check your clutch spring bolts.

Then again, I'm still not convinced the final drive is good. What did the splines look like? How worn were they? Did you try to hold the inner gear and use a pair of pliers to turn it. The most likely culprit is the inner splines on the driveshaft. Was it greased or dry. take some pictures. Let us look at the splines
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Splines were dry and a lot of rust dust came off the bike. I came to own the bike at 22k miles, I've put about 3k on it. Had a mechanic "look over every inch" when I bought it but have found his work since then to be subpar. Which is why I jumped to finaldrive when I read the symptoms. I'll head down to the garage and take a few photos in a minute, the splines seemed good unless it's stripped inside the shaft on the coupling
 

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Splines were dry and a lot of rust dust came off the bike. I came to own the bike at 22k miles, I've put about 3k on it. Had a mechanic "look over every inch" when I bought it but have found his work since then to be subpar. Which is why I jumped to finaldrive when I read the symptoms. I'll head down to the garage and take a few photos in a minute, the splines seemed good unless it's stripped inside the shaft on the coupling
If they were dry and rusty ,you have found the problem. There is enough friction between the parts to cause the rear wheel to turn without a load on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This may be because I have a fundamental misunderstanding of how the driveshaft on bikes work, but even when the clutch is pulled in the shaft turns in gear, it's the same speed always regardless of engine output or if the gear is even engaged.

I've taken some photos, upon further inspection it does appear worn (comparing with fergy's guide) I'll be ordering a new one and hoping that's it and go on blissfully ignorant of how this whole drive shaft on a motorcycle works.





Couldn't find my real camera, here's some crappy phone photos.
 

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yea, those are pretty much gone... drive shaft and final drive time..

without something to hold the driveshaft up against the splines at the front end (where u joint is), it will likely pop off or partially disengage if you tried to run it.

when you put the final drive on, did you have the spring that goes inside the coupling (where yours is rusted and stripped) in? if not, see above paragraph.
 

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while your waiting on parts, you can pull the front bevel gear assy (6 or 7 bolts) and pull it off, and pull the drive shaft out to inspect the u joint and the splines at that end (they rarely fail tho)
 

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It is pretty much history. Post in the Sell and trade section on this forum and there is about always someone with the stuff you need for a reasonable price.

Almost all clutches will have enough friction to turn a driveshaft or wheel under no load.Most bikes do this even chain drive ones. Nothing unusual there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I went down to my local dealer, so $1100 is the going price for a new final drive (foolishly thought I could just replace the spline). I'll call up a few local motorcycle yards first then post in the sell/trade section. Thanks for the help everyone!
 

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a little shopping around can net you a servicable drive shaft assy for 50-60 (probably less), and a final drive for 150-250 range on ebay.

make sure the pics are clear enough to see the splines to check them before getting them.

I say driveshaft assy because a new coupler costs more than a full drive shaft (used), which probably will include a coupler
 

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I got a final drive, you'll just need to get the coupler/driveshaft. How's $60 plus shipping sound. Here's a quick pic.

 

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yup, lots avail for fair pricing if you just look..

I am sure Newriders stuff is in good shape, and the one posted by shark 88 looks excellent as well.

I wish I had been able to get one at the prices listed/offered here when I needed one... I paid 125-150 for my final (I forgot exact price), and around 30 for my driveshaft.
 

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Ebay right now has a final for a 1993. $100 includes shipping. Splines and drive gear look good.
i have a shaft and final for sale 100 plus shipping and its yours
Not really sure why other offers were made after one was on the table. I don't think that really makes sense. Enough said.
 
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Also wanna thank everyone that commented on this post and thNk a few individuals in particular for all youve done for me in regards to this lubing procedure because without yall tips and building up my confidence . This would have cost me alot of doe at the shop to get it done...
 
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