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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Dropped the bike and put too much pressure on the tank when I picked it up. :doh: Popped a spot weld loose on the left side tank attachment and caused a leak. Took it to several professional welders, and none of them would guarantee they wouldn't burn the paint and gold pinstriping on top of the tank. :drool: One wanted to stick weld, another to braze it. A friend offered to wire weld it. He notched the tab, heated it to bend it out of the way, and laid what looked like a good bead all the way around the triangular piece where the spot weld popped loose. By keeping wet rags around the weld area, he preserved the paint. Bent the tab back and welded it up. Unfortunately, there must be a pin hole in his weld as it still leaks! Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this tank? I can't find any used tanks that match mine and don't want to spend over $400 :wow: to get a new one.
 

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the doctor
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50 Posts
Doesn't Billy Mays have a super leak stopping epoxy! But wait isn't this another rip off. I know your pain original tank had many rust holes, bought a cheap bargin tank. it also had a leak. Just waited and found one on ebay that I liked, it doesn't leak and the OEM paint is quite nice, Mybe a nice low cost tank as a backup until you can find the weep hole and weld it shut for good.
 

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The Professor
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3,147 Posts
You can use JB weld, just clean the area well. :beerchug:
 

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Vintage bike addict
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859 Posts
Or PC7. There are epoxy kits at auto parts stores for sealing fuel tanks. Then there's a product called Seal All.
 

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On His Lady Vulcan
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1,647 Posts
You can use JB weld, just clean the area well. :beerchug:
I also had a leak in the same area and used so much JB weld that I should have bought stock in the company. The problem that I was experiencing with using JB in that area was when you went to tighten down the tank bolt it would continually break the weld. My recommendation is to watch ebay closely and find a deal on a good used one. Don't use that tank sealant crap thats out there either. Good luck.

Peace :beerchug:
 

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Vintage bike addict
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Your welder friend could try silver solder with a micro torch. If it works it should hold.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #7
I started out using JB weld when it first leaked. Stopped the leak, but like wkrizan said, when I put it on, I heard a faint "pop" while tightening the bolts. Sure enough, it leaked again. Spent five hours and broke two dental tools getting the JB weld out! The tank was sealed at the stealership by the PO. Not sure what adding more would do, but that is a possibility too. Think I read a thread (by fergy?) about cleaning rust from a tank with nuts and muriatic acid. Anybody know if that will remove tank liner?

Hadn't thought about solder; I could do that! My mind associates solder with electrical connections.

I'm also looking at a spare tank on ebay. Nothing matches mine and I sure would like to keep her looking uniform; she's a beautiful thing. But I've had her over a month and only put two miles on her! I want to get her on the road ASAP, and if that means getting a spare tank, I'll do it!

Open to any other suggestions too!
 

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CWO3 Navy (Retired)
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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Cliff, already have.
 

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The Professor
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What color is your tank? :beerchug:
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #11
Black, with gold pinstriping and gold Kawasaki lettering. If I can't patch existing tank, will get a used one, paint it, and see if pinstripe/lettering decals are still available.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #12
WHOOOOEEEE! Just priced the decals at Bike Bandit! $390 JUST FOR THE TANK DECALS!!!!! Think I'm gonna find that leak and fix it, come hell or high water!
 

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CWO3 Navy (Retired)
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722 Posts
I have found that cheapcycleparts.com by far has the cheapest price on OEM parts for our bikes! They beat Bike Bandit by a considerable amount. The Fuel Tank decal pattern is $44 each side and the Emblem is $14 and change for each side. I buy all my parts from them, they ship quick and if there is a problem one phone call gets it fixed in a hurry.
 

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The Professor
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3,147 Posts
I have found that cheapcycleparts.com by far has the cheapest price on OEM parts for our bikes! They beat Bike Bandit by a considerable amount. The Fuel Tank decal pattern is $44 each side and the Emblem is $14 and change for each side. I buy all my parts from them, they ship quick and if there is a problem one phone call gets it fixed in a hurry.
X2 ! They have great service and great prices. :rockon:

LINK

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/?gclid=CMy-tqiD35ICFRpOagodHEFP-A
 

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The Professor
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3,147 Posts
Black, with gold pinstriping and gold Kawasaki lettering. If I can't patch existing tank, will get a used one, paint it, and see if pinstripe/lettering decals are still available.
A professional welding shop can Tig weld for around $50.00. Make some calls! :beerchug:
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #16
I called every welder in the phone book. Most didn't want to weld on a tank, period. Of the three that would, one insisted on me getting the tank steam cleaned before he'd work on it (not necessary, all the gas vapors were gone) and wouldn't give an estimate of what it would cost; one wanted to acetylene braze it (and said he'd probably burn the paint on top); and the third said he'd have it fixed in three days and would try not to burn the top paint. Two weeks later, I came and got the tank. It wasn't welded and had some scratches that weren't there when I left it. Told me he planned to weld it the next day. He isn't going to get the opportunity.

Guess I'll try some of the machine shops in town that have welders and see what they can/will do.

I mis figured Bike Bandit's cost for the complete decal set I'd need if I got another tank for my 1989. The correct figure is $272.27 (plus shipping) versus $213.62 for cheap cycle parts. A savings, but way too much money either way. It's interesting that the right side decals cost 1 1/2 times what the left side does. Anybody know why?
 

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The Professor
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3,147 Posts
I called every welder in the phone book. Most didn't want to weld on a tank, period. Of the three that would, one insisted on me getting the tank steam cleaned before he'd work on it (not necessary, all the gas vapors were gone) and wouldn't give an estimate of what it would cost; one wanted to acetylene braze it (and said he'd probably burn the paint on top); and the third said he'd have it fixed in three days and would try not to burn the top paint. Two weeks later, I came and got the tank. It wasn't welded and had some scratches that weren't there when I left it. Told me he planned to weld it the next day. He isn't going to get the opportunity.

Guess I'll try some of the machine shops in town that have welders and see what they can/will do.

I mis figured Bike Bandit's cost for the complete decal set I'd need if I got another tank for my 1989. The correct figure is $272.27 (plus shipping) versus $213.62 for cheap cycle parts. A savings, but way too much money either way. It's interesting that the right side decals cost 1 1/2 times what the left side does. Anybody know why?
When you call the shop tell them the tank has been cleaned and there is no chance of a vapor ignition. :beerchug:
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #18
I did. Guess he had someone else tell him that and it went boom. He made it clear he wasn't welding on it until it had been steam cleaned. Can't blame the guy for being cautious, I suppose.
 

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Registered
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15 Posts
You have a pin hole because the metal being welded has soaked up fuel residues.
Metal must be CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN to be welded on properly.
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Otherwise, fill the tank with water, to just below where you're welding.
No fumes, no explosion.
And, use gas w/ a wire-feed welder. With oxygen eliminated from the weld area by the gas, the weld is smooth (as long as the metal is free of contamination).
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Your pin-holes are probably due to contamination.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #20
Well, the second time was the charm. My buddy got it sealed tight. I was a little apprehensive tightening up the mount on the side that was welded, but no popping sound and it hasn't leaked; been almost a week. Think I'm good to go, except that two tanks of Sea Foam haven't eliminated the idle problem. Looks like a carb cleaning is in my near future!
 
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