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Discussion Starter #1
ok now that the title made you curious while waiting for the rotor puller I decided to clean the rust out of my tank using the ph up and bolt and battery charger method. I have the tank drained, the petcock removed, the sending unit removed, cap removed, yes fuel has been drained.
my question is......now I assume you go in thru the top with the bolt and it would make sense that the petcock and sending unit needs to be out for this proceedure...but is duct tape good to plug the holes while zapping the rust?
I didn't find mention of this in the verses. Anybody that has done this method could you tell me if I am right about using the tape? I have the tank sitting there getting the fumes out so I have plenty of time lol
 

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Good quality Duck tape is water resistant and should seal the openings. I used the Navy Jelly method when I did my tank and the Duct tape didn't leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
great thanks for the response wwm...I have it all taped up and ready to explode errr ummm I mean clean the rust
 

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Duct tape even held up pretty good with muriatic acid in the tank. Pressure caused it to leak a little but it was tolerable. Good quality duct tape makes all the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was planning on using the duct tape all along, but then my mind wandered on what about the adhesive and what type of chemical reaction will it have with the ph up. thanks for putting my mind at ease....today I am letting the tank air out.....tommorrow comes the electrocution......I was surprised at how clean the filters on the petcock looked.....maybe if all the rust gets taken care of I will dry the dry ice on that dent on the top of the tank
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok the duct tape leaked (I was probably too cheap) but I used permatex and some gasket material and bolts to finally get it to stop leaking
Has anyone actually tried the ph up, bolt, battery charger method?
I used 1/4 cup ph up for every 2 gallons of water and there was no bubbling to speak of
my battery charger is a 10 amp charger...while there has been some gunk on the bolt (been on for 3 days now) it doesn't appear to be doing all that much
maybe more ph up?? what seems to get attracted to the bolt first is the ph up....the wire gets corroded so I have been cutting that and rewinding it to the bolt after I clean off the bolt
highest setting on charger is 10 amp so I can't increase that
I am thinking if this doesn't work I will try the BB's in the dryer method.
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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I don't know for sure if it'd make a difference, but is the bolt steel, and not stainless steel ?
10 amps should work fine.
Are you sure you have the negative clamp to the tank & positive to the bolt?
From what THIS post in the Verses says, you should need to clean the bolt off every few hours at first.

Sorry I can't be of any more help.
 

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I was thinking about doing the same, but was going to use a zinc bolt. Don't know (the rest of my family are chemists...), but seems that the zinc would be better in the oxidation department. Aside from that, though, I have no idea, sorry (but I am interested in the outcome of your bench chemistry experiment!!).
 

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I know my acid tank cleaning sounds radical, but it takes about 3 hours to do the complete job, and it etches the rust away, leaving shiny silver tank inside. There's no "hmmm, I wonder if it will work?" If you are interested, read my post in this thread linked below. A year later, my KZ1000 tank is still silver and rust free. It was brown and scaley before! Literally the gas would come out of the tank reddish colored!

http://www.vn750.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1361&highlight=rust+tank
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Cindy I believe you are right about the zinc bolt.
Fergy if this way doesn't work then I think I will try the acid way, very good write up I must say.
I just checked the bolt again after being on all night and this time it was loaded with gunk...so it is doing something...just not bubbling lol
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well tank is now clean...along with that comes removal of the bolt that dropped in tank when the wire became brittle....oh and also the magnet that I used to retrieve the bolt that got stuck on the bottom of the tank when it fell off the string I had it attached to....yes I had a few mishaps along the way lmao but the tank is clean...the original bolts I used were no good so I had some large steel washers laying around that worked great...they were just able to fit thru the fill hole without touching and made for a good surface area...and I saw much better bubbling of the mixture...so anyone trying this remember that bolt selection is very important to this process...it did not coat the tank but did remove the rust....now I think its on to get some dry ice for the ding in the tank
 

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and the Adventure Cycle
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A clean tank is a good tank!
A dented tank that's clean is a good tank!
An undented tank, that's clean is even better!!
Watch your hands with the dry ice & good luck.
 

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I used the Yamaha tank cleaner which in essence is an acid bath with a neutralizer. Over 6 months ago now and no recurring rust. Just my .02.
 

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Glad to hear you "got 'er done". If my tank ever rusts again, I may try this method as that way I don't have to worry about spilling acid mixtures on the tank and ruining the paint.
Good luck on the dent.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
if I ever did it again...I would do it Fergy's way with the acid...seams like alot less time, and with the battery charger method the wires get brittle and fall off so maybe using a solid strand heavy gauge wire would be better...I had to flush it out several times to get all the wire out
 
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