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Discussion Starter #1
First off on the left side, 2 of the bolts were missing and the 3rd is stripped..can't get it off..here's a pic.


Second, on the right side..I got the screws off and the plate removed, and also got the 5mm bolt screwed into the shaft, but it won't budge..lots of rust and it looks to be in maybe too far..can't really tell. Should the shaft just slide out? Any ideas??..only point of leverage is the 5mm bolt. I've sprayed it down heavily with some WD-40 and the rust is just pouring out. It doesn't look good in there.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!
 

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Linkmeister Supreme
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First off on the left side, 2 of the bolts were missing and the 3rd is stripped..can't get it off..here's a pic.


Second, on the right side..I got the screws off and the plate removed, and also got the 5mm bolt screwed into the shaft, but it won't budge..lots of rust and it looks to be in maybe too far..can't really tell. Should the shaft just slide out? Any ideas??..only point of leverage is the 5mm bolt. I've sprayed it down heavily with some WD-40 and the rust is just pouring out. It doesn't look good in there.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!
The picture looks like one bolt head has rounded off corners. Is that the one you refer to as "stripped".
The bolt in the hole at the top looks like the head is broken off, not that the whole bolt is missing.
The hole to the right appears empty, and that bolt may in fact be missing.

Is that an accurate description?

On the right side you may want to try a different penetrating oil. Maybe something like PB Blaster.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok..I guess I didn't explain that very well...my bad...you do that when you've been staring at it for hrs...LOL!

Ok..in that pic...That's the left side of the swingarm...The top and right holes are empty. The small bolt on the left is a hex head screw/bolt and it's badly stripped. I'm thinking about trying to get the big nut off and out of the way and then trying some vice grips or something...barring that I guess I get to drill it out??

Now as to the "right side" of the swingarm...here's a pic of it.

You'll notice the serious rust. I'm letting it soak overnight with a liberal spray of WD-40. I'm still trying to figure out best course to remove the shaft. I'm also assuming that all of this is to be replaced at this point, since if these parts look this bad I'm assuming that the seals and bearings will be trash too. Just looking for ideas to get the old stuff off the bike for now.
 

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Keep soaking both sides with penetrating oil.

You can try thermal shock to remove the rusted shaft. Heat the metal on the frame around the shaft with a propane soldering torch. Be very careful if you use an acetylene welding torch as it is much hotter, and you could ruin the steel.

Shock the end of the shaft with short quick shots of liquid propane from a #20 cylinder off a BBQ, or the butane from the spray cans of air for cleaning a computer keyboard. Propane cylinders feed vapor when sitting upright, but will release liquid at 44*F below zero if the cylinder is turned upside down. Turn off the tank valve and disconnect the hose fitting from the BBQ so you have a short hose still attached to the tank to direct the propane stream. Wear thick gloves, and avoid spraying any skin. A freeze with propane will feel like a burn when it thaws.

Theory here is the thermal difference will crack the rust between the frame and the shaft to allow working it out.
 

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Maybe try tightening the adjuster bolt a tiny bit to break the rust seal?
And, like Ol Hoss mentioned, something other than WD-40 (like PB Blaster) will work better.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just an update...I've managed to get the right side shaft out now...the overnight soaking helped. I got my small spaded nail puller and set it under the 5mm bolt head..and then gently tapped it out. Worked great!

Now I'm still trying to remove the gimped up allen head bolt from the first pic on the left side. Been working on it all day...no luck yet.
 

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If you have a set of allen head sockets, if no sockets an allen wrench will do, use one that is a bit larger and drive it in with a hammer. It should be a tight enough fit and the tapping should break the rust up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thx Baldy..I tried that once today..may try again. I've also tried slotting the head with a chisel, but that didn't work too well. It's a tough screw.

I just got back from town with a can of PB Blaster to try overnight and also a full reverse drill bit/screw extractor set and also a metric tap/die set. Will probably try that in the morning. I'm hoping that will work..if not I'll probably throw the frame in the truck and take into the local machine shop and see what they can do with it. There's some trick of welding a bolt onto the bad screw and then torquing it out that way. I'm not a welder and have no equipment other than epoxy which I don't think will work for this one.

I'm mostly just very frustrated...I only had a few bolts left to remove and I'd be ready to start prepping the frame for painting..but isn't that how it always goes!

Gonna spray some PB and then walk away for the night and will kill this bear tomorrow!!
Thanks again to everyone for their ideas!
 

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Welding a bolt on it would work, just get a short one (3/4")that fits into the hole and the heat will also help loosening the rust. I say a short one for torque reasons. I know it is a tight spot but have you tried vise grips? Get them to hold tight and tap it with a hammer. The tapping also helps removing it and not break the head off. Then again you have a new set of stud removal tools and a tap and die set you must be eager to use. lol I'm sure you don't want to use them if you don't have to though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Another update!! I now have the nasty bolt out! Another overnight soaking in PB Blaster this time, seemed to have helped! I think I'm starting to like that stuff! I decided to take Baldy's advice and drive another bit in there first..used a star bit..tapped it in really good and snug and then very carefully attached my torque wrench to it, held my breath and turned...and it came loose!!

Got it out and removed the plate..and of course the left side shaft is rusted shut like the right one was..but I hosed it down with PB Blaster and am letting it sit too and hopefully will have that out tonight sometime.

In the meantime..I went for the triple tree...got the main bolt off no problem and the top of the tree, but didn't realize I needed some special spanner wrench to get these two funky nuts off the top! So now I'm shopping around for the best deal on a wrench. I thought about just tapping it off with screwdriver and hammer..but that won't help me get it back on and torqued..and would probably tear it up too. Gonna have to be patient a few more days it looks like and order the right tool...grrr!! LOL!
 

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In the meantime..I went for the triple tree...got the main bolt off no problem and the top of the tree, but didn't realize I needed some special spanner wrench to get these two funky nuts off the top! So now I'm shopping around for the best deal on a wrench. I thought about just tapping it off with screwdriver and hammer..but that won't help me get it back on and torqued..and would probably tear it up too. Gonna have to be patient a few more days it looks like and order the right tool...grrr!! LOL!
That's what I did...although I used a thick nylon rod instead of the screwdriver...(won't smush up the nut)...

I used the same method to put it back on...but would check the movement left -right as I moved tightening in small increaments. They do make a "special tool" for this...basicly a spanner wrench that fits a 3/8 drive ratchet or torque wrench...

The only problem is that those "funky" nuts as you call them may not be right even with using a torque wrench... Doing it by feel and checking for tightness , sticking or binding is better. The top nut does have a torque value I would use ( the one that holds the top tree on.)

KM
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I hear ya KM...I seriously did think about just tearing into it..but decided to order the tool instead. This poor bike has seen enough abuse already..the least I can do is use the right tools on it for a change. And I'll definitely use the torque value on the top nut for sure.

Now..as for that stupid swing-arm shaft...it's getting a serious beating...LOL! And it will come outta there..come hell or high water!!
 

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I removed my swing arm yesterday evening. I had the same problem with removing the shaft; no movement at all with putting a bold in the threaded hole and trying to pull the shaft out

I pulled away the rubber (covering the final drive joint) and hit the shaft from the inside with a screwdriver and hammer. (careful nut to hit the drive joint) It came out fair easily this way.
When the right shaft is out you can turn the swing arm a bit and remove the final drive shaft. When the final drive shaft is removed you can pull the swing arm from the right side swing arm shaft and remove the shaft by hitting it with a hammer.

(sorry for my bad English.. I'm Dutch and my technical English inst very good.)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I may try this today...I did have the right side shaft out, but put it back in immediately, since I didn't even have the plate off the left side yet and didn't want any binding to happen. Hadn't thought about trying to take it out again. If it will let the swing arm drop out of the way that might work to let me get a clear shot at the shaft from the back side. The actual final drive shaft, rubber boot, etc is all out...it's just the empty swing arm I'm trying to get off the bike.

Thx for the idea Vulcan750...:)
 

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The actual final drive shaft, rubber boot, etc is all out...it's just the empty swing arm I'm trying to get off the bike.
Empty swing arm? How have you been able to remove the drive shaft with the swing arm still attached?

If you look at the image below.
You can pull back the drive shaft (1) just far enough to place a screw drive or anything else that is long enough on the inside of the swing arm shaft (2).
You may have to hit it quit hard the first few time but eventually you will see it coming out.

Don't worry if you damage the shaft a bit.
Of course its always better to use plastic or wood.


 

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Discussion Starter #17
SUCCESS!!! The shaft is out!!! Thanks to Vulcan750 for suggesting removing the other shaft and to remove the swing arm that way!! Once the swingarm was out it just took a couple of good taps with a punch and hammer and it tapped right on out!! They will be cleaned up and properly lubed going back in this time for sure!!

Vulcan750..I had already removed the engine and the final drive..so the driveshaft just slid out.

Thanks again for all the help!!
 
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