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This post is not an endorsement to keep riding your bike in its current condition, HOWEVER:

If you physically swap IC1 and IC2, the next time your power loss happens you will either see your rpms drop to zero like they do now, indicating that the IC Ignitor is failing to properly drive pin 4 (black wire to coil 1 on stock setup), OR your rpms will stay representative of your engine speed, should drop, but not zero out. That would indicate that the original IC 1 is faulty and not sparking even when driven by pin 1 of the IC Ignitor (green wire to coil 2 on stock setup).

That is assuming that you still agree that at least one cylinder is still providing some power when your tach hits zero.
 

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When your bike died completely and you hit the starter button, was it trying to crank, or was it totally dead until you removed and reinserted the key?

If the starter motor was turning, then your ignition switch is probably good, but if you were getting nothing at all then that does indicate a contact in the ignition switch.

The circuit goes through the ignition switch to the kill-switch then forks to the start button and ignition coil ignitor. If the starter button is doing ANYTHING, then your ignition is passing current along to the ignitor.
 

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Yep, you have to stretch the springs an also, I used zip ties to make SURE the puck is pressed firmly together. Actually I glued it AND zip tied it.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Okay guys, here’s some more info after another ride. First let me address the ignition switch issue. When I took it out, I did stretch the springs, not only did I stretched them but I made them do yoga.

And now what I experience last night. Rpm dropped to zero, I gave it full throttle and I could hear a little noise increase from no throttle to open throttle. But it wasn’t a lot and it didn’t really give me any accel. If it did then maybe it was only 5%. If I was lucky then rpm went back up and I could keep on going. But I am notoriously unlucky so most of the time rpm stayed at 0 and I had to pull over. It would cruise on for a while until bike was slow and then it died like the kill switch was hit and oil light turned on.

When I pull over I pushed the starter, but nothing happened. There was no cranking and the headlight was still on. When I turn key to off position and then back to on the bike would start. But it would only turn on if key was closest to off position while still in on. This happened over 5 times and I had to pull over 5 times.

When rpm dropped to 0, if I pull in the clutch the bike would die 1 sec after instead of cruising for a while and then dying. It seems like the clutch staying engage has small chance of reviving the bike and that is why rpm drop and comes back up. If it can't revive it then it at least prolongs the bike’s death.
 

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Since you're rebuild didn't help long term, I'd buy a new ignition switch ASAP.
Seems like all related problems might be resolved.
 

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Since you're rebuild didn't help long term, I'd buy a new ignition switch ASAP.
Seems like all related problems might be resolved.
Agree because if you aren't geting the exact proper voltage throughout, these bikes do really wacky things.
 

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Mine is doing the exact same thing. After it does it mine fires right back up. Did you ever find out what it was?
 

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Hi, Collyz.
Sometimes similar symptoms stem from different problems. You'll be best off opening a new thread specific to your problem where you can describe exactly what, when, and where this is happening for you.
Oh, and post an introduction in the newbie section so we can know where you're from, and what sort of riding and wrenching experience you have!
 
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