When marbling you are supposed to plug the vacuum line coming off of the rear carb....now....after plugging it, are you supposed to put the line back onto the open port on the carb or just let the carb suck in open air??
I say spend the 35 bux and get the coaster kit from Cycle Tech of Loves Park, IL - find them on eBay. Comes with instructions, and if you save all your parts, you can put it all back later if you don't like it.
Marbling or coastering is the process of blocking off the reed valves. These provide fresh air into the exhaust process to burn off any residual fuel and reduce emissions. It is the primary reason for the popping on decel. Marbling describes using marbles in the hoses to block them off while leaving everything in place. Coastering is done by removing the canister and hoses, and blocking the hoses by capping them off, and/or installing solid plates in place of the reed valves. There is a ton of info in the verses on both processes. I went the coastering route. I like the look of the plate instead of the reed valve. I also wanted a little extra room under the seat for the relays I installed for my Stebel horn and VOM. You actually only see the left side. The right side is under the right ear. (unless you've removed the air filters, AKA ear shave, then you will see both.)
any marble from any toy bag, as long as it will drop into a 5/8" socket. You can get a bag from any toy store and save the rest to keep in your pocket for dropping behind you when you have a tailgater LOL!
I picked up a plastic bottle full of marbles from the dollar store...It was intended to be ammo for some sort of toy launcher/gun. (man, I had a toy rifle with only a cork when I was a kid!) anyway, I used what I needed and gave the rest to my kids.
The cap looks like the rubber caps that are used at the ends of poles for proping up boat covers, etc. I believe my Ace Hardware carries them in various sizes in the hardware section where they have stainless steel screws and cap nuts, etc. It also looks like a wire tie banded around it to keep it in place.
I'm actually having a tough time getting the popping out of the front cylinder(right pipe) I must have an air leak in the carb or carb boot....I'm thinking the carbs are going to have to come out again...:doh:
RATS I wish I had seen this earlier, davewex. We all know the hardest part of installing the carbs is getting the boots back on (if you still have your airbox) but testing for an air leak there can be done with either starting fluid or WD-40. Use the red spray needles, idle the bike and aim a shot of either at suspect joints near the intake. Starting fluid will rev the engine up, WD-40 will drop the idle a bit. I like starting fluid better because it doesn't lubricate the V of the engine. Beats pulling the carbs to make sure. MAN I hate pulling those carbs. I never think of it until it comes up, but yuk. And I do this for a living.
Thanks for the info Covert!
I ended up pulling the carbs to rejet and replace some rubber parts, but still had the popping from the front cylinder...Then I discovered that I did have an air leak in the boot after that install. (It was making it seem like it was the same air leak!!) I was able to loosen all the boot clamps, lube the one leaking and then spin it around to the correct position. I also plugged all the extra California emissions equipment during this time (except the vent!) It runs great, now.
TIP - Use silicone spray lube on the boots and they slide into place real easy (A lesson learned LATE!!)
Many thanks again to the folks on this forum that helped me out:
Jets - Lance328
CA Emissions - OldDog
Also many others that I may have missed!
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